2010 Couple of questions

[dean r]

I just bought a 2010C loader that won't start. The story goes is he bought it running from an equipment dealer, loaded it on his trailer. He said that it seemed underpowered when it was loaded. When he arrived home went to start it and it wouldn't start. It turns over fine and diesel fumes come out of the exhaust pipe no fire. He changed switches and installed new glow plugs had a local diesel mechanic go through it and he tried ether but it wouldn't fire even on ether.

The loader has set for several years, came from a estate auction and appears to be a very low hour crawler.

My first question is since it won't fire on ether, is there some kind of compression release? Or should I order the overhaul kit now.

Second question is he swore that it is a 1961 1010 but a data plate on the engine shows "2010C 37415" and a data plate on the frame shows model 820 1767 (see pictures) This is a 2010 and should be a 1963 right?

If anyone has a service manual that I could buy or some specs on injection pump timing compression PSI range etc... I would appreciate the info. I'm going to bleed and time the injectors, run a compression test and double check the glow plugs. I'm hoping I can get it to run long enough to get it on my trailer so I can get it home.





Additional pictures as I bought it.

[2010OWNER]

Dean,

There is no compression release.

The year of manufacture sounds correct. There is listing of production dates and serial numbers for the 2010 posted elsewhere on this site.

Looking at your picture, I can't see an exhaust stack on it. Could rain water have gotten to your valves?

My experience with a "tired" 2010 diesel engine is that it would fire on ether. When I purchased my 2010 (1975) it needed all kinds of help to get started.

Avoid using ether in the future as the 2010 isn't designed for it. You could cause serious damage to the engine.

My shop manual says the minimum compression should be 300 - 350 psi at 150 RPM cranking speed or 350 - 400 psi at 250 RPM cranking speed.

Shop, Owners, and Parts Manuals can be found on the John Deere web site and on eBay. I've been told to avoid the IT manuals as they aren't as descriptive or comprehensive as the John Deere books.
B.

[dean r]

Thanks for the info!

The muffler is laying on the tracks but he did put a piece of sheet metal over the hole in the hood and we turned it over by hand/starter before I bought it.


I'm thinking it may be the valves too. Maybe not from rust but from gummed up valve stems. Where this crawler came from it is very dry but hot and if it sat for a long time the oil cooks down to a gummy sludge. Maybe the valves didn't spring back fast enough and were hit, now bent. That is if the story of using ether is true.

I bought a forklift with a snapped camshaft a few years ago that the distributor was seized by gummy tar like oil,

I've found allot of great info and ideas for the problem off this web site. Like, maybe when they loaded it, one of the tank lines was plugged and they sucked some air in.

I think what I need to do is start separating facts from fiction and if I have to overhaul it so be it. Thanks again.

I have a question is if he thought it was a 1961 1010 and not a 1963 2010 maybe be he installed the wrong glow plugs. Since I see they are different, what problems might that cause like compression leakage?

[Lavoy]

The glow plugs will not interchange, there is no way.
By your serial number, you are in the 1963 area I think. There are some changes at 32,000, would have to look at a parts manual to double check.
lavoy

[dean r]

Thanks for all the info, it has helped allot!

I ran the compression test and have about 250-270lb across cranking. Then checked the pump timing and found it was at least 10deg BTDC, backed that off. Got it started on a couple cylinders, decided to pull and clean the injectors. Reinstalled the injectors and fired it up on all cylinders, that's when I ran into problems. I think it has a spun No. 1 main bearing, but the noise sounds too Tinny like a pulley is rubbing/bumping on sheet metal but I found no cause.

Is this common when a main bearing in these engines go bad or is there something else I could check? It didn't sound like other bad main bearings I've heard. I unhooked the fan belt but the noise is still there.