New 40c. First crawler.

[CuttingEdge]

When I was ten my teacher told my mother I was a good kid, but I fantasized a lot. When my mother heard that she was surprised because she said I was honest, almost to a fault. That was when she said I was always talking about cutting wood and driving bulldozers. That was when my mother told her that I did!

I was ten when my dad bought our first bulldozer; a 1965 John Deere 1010 with a gasoline engine. We worked it primarily in the woods.

I did not log like many of you are thinking. Dad would cut the trees down, limb them hook them up and when there was a "twitch" on behind of a few trees. My job was to drive the dozer out to the yard, unhook the trees and push them into a pile while he cut the next set of trees.

I didn't actively log with a chainsaw until I was 15! I started to cut a load and dad told me I was not going to cut 3-4 cord of wood. If I started a load (12 cords) I had to finish it. I am 41 years now and haven't stopped yet.

[Vetter]

I have a few questions maybe someone can help me out with, the crawler came with the original owners manual, so I have been reading that.

When adjusting the throwout bearing position for the steering clutch, I adjust it just so it hits the fingers of the pressure plate, I have adjusted the throw out bearing all the way outward(expanded as big as it gets) so the locking bolt is almost off the adjustment slot on the bearing. I am assuming this means the clutch discs are almost wore out, or as they wear, does the throwout bearing adjust smaller? Wishful thinking I'm sure.

I also have the original oil pressure gauge on the side of the engine, it still has the "John Deere" name, I was told this means it's probably original. When I start the engine the oil pressure goes just above the "stop" red mark and stays there, no matter what. I'm a little worried the engine may have low oil pressure, but even after the engine warms up the oil pressure doesn't move, just wondering if this is normal? It never makes it to the "green" colored area even at start up cold.

[jtrichard]

As the clutch wears the fingers move CLOSER to the bearing so you have to move the bearing away from the clutch ...... as for oil pressure get a good gauge with NUMBERS and see just what the actual pressures are

[Vetter]

As the clutch wears the fingers move CLOSER to the bearing so you have to move the bearing away from the clutch ...... as for oil pressure get a good gauge with NUMBERS and see just what the actual pressures are

That's great news, if the clutch fingers were adjusted correctly, I guess my clutch discs must be newer, or still have a lot of life remaining.
Looking for a good gauge with numbers to be sure.
Thanks!

[Lavoy]

The gauges do not have any numbers on them, but I sell the gauge for $25.
Lavoy

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

I suspect a bad gauge, and having a good one which shows actual pressure for troubleshooting around the shop is always a good idea. After verifying a bad gauge, then getting a new one like the old one is Ok.

I have a couple of the liquid filled gauges in different pressure ranges just for troubleshooting. With hoses as well so I can check just about anything when I want to.

I have a different set of gauges and hoses for measuring gasses, so I don't get things mixes that ought not to be mixed (like oil and oxygen).

Stan

[Vetter]

God idea Stan, I'm sure I have a few gauges somewhere, but I just moved, and finding anything in my barn right now is next to impossible.

Lavoy, do you sell carb rebuild kits and card to manifold gaskets for these? If so I would like to get these and a gauge also. My petcock is leaking, and it needs a good carb overhaul while I'm at it.

[Lavoy]

I was thinking steering clutch gauge, duh! I have replacement oil pressure gauges on hand.
Yes, I have carb kits and gaskets on hand.
Lavoy