track removal

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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shugy368
430 crawler
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track removal

Post by shugy368 » Fri May 20, 2016 11:35 am

I need to remove one of my tracks on a 1949 JD 420 C I've located the link pin but there is no clip on it and the end is slightly mushroomed so it will not drive back out of the link? Does this model have to be ground off? Or is just really close tolerances and have to be pressed out? any help would be greatly appreciated :? Thanks

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Fri May 20, 2016 2:12 pm

None had to be ground, if they do, previous owner has damaged it so you may have to grind to make it go.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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shugy368
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track removal

Post by shugy368 » Fri May 20, 2016 5:59 pm

Thanks for your input Lavoy, would you know of some kind of portable press?
steve

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sat May 21, 2016 8:58 am

Nothing that you can afford. Master pin presses are in the $8000 and up range. I have never needed one, it will come out, might learn some new words in the process though.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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mapaduke@yahoo.com
1010 crawler
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Post by mapaduke@yahoo.com » Sun May 22, 2016 4:53 pm

Be sure to get the track as loose as possible, I've seen the master pins with grooves worn in them and some times hang up on the link or bushing as you drive them out.
nothing crawles like a deere

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Sun May 22, 2016 6:44 pm

Hi,

Alternating tapping and cursing always seems to work for me.... :P

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Mon May 23, 2016 2:16 pm

A trick I learned on this site was to bore a 2x4 or 4x4 block and clamp it over the pin with the hole lined up so as to align a drift. I then welded a handle onto a drift so my helper would be willing to help. Then a big hammer and lots of lubricant seemed to get things going. Of course working from the middle of the machine towards the outside does mean that it's hard to get a good swing. The mentioned new vocabulary and a few beers help and keeps the help happier too.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Mon May 23, 2016 7:50 pm

Hi,

Next time, I will alternate Tapping, then Cursing, then Swigging (from the beer can). Might not wind up working for very long, though (because why not take the beer to the hammock)....

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Tue May 24, 2016 1:30 pm

Some heat from a Rosebud on the master track link should also help to get things moving as long as you are careful not to overheat- and if that fails you could always torch out the master pin.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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CuttingEdge
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Post by CuttingEdge » Wed May 25, 2016 3:53 pm

Last time I built a cradle out of 2 X 6's and used a lining bar to pound out the pin. No profanity or beer, but it was reluctant to say the least. Unfortunately I will now have to repeat the procedure; my left side idler just broke today. Good thing I bought 2 for it in anticipation!
I have no intention of traveling to my grave in a well manicured body; instead I am going to slide into heaven with a big power turn, totally wore out with busted knuckles, jump off my dozer loudly yelling, Woo Hoo, another Shepard has just arrived!

original possum
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Post by original possum » Wed May 25, 2016 5:56 pm

And backing up the joint with a long length of 2" pipe helps too. One blow at a time.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

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shugy368
430 crawler
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track removal

Post by shugy368 » Thu May 26, 2016 10:24 am

Well Thanks for all the advice fellas, I finally got the dadburned thing out :roll: .Also learned a few new words, damaged some beer cans, burned up some acytlene/oxy and my hairs on one hand :oops: ,but it is out :!: read in my manual about rolling tractor so link is about 5"to 12" from ground that helped with swinging hammer room. liked the idea about making a sleeve guide but read this too late :roll: now the fun of pulling the axle and assessing damage? hope you got parts Lavoy :?: Will let you know more after teardown. thanks for all the advice and encouragement!
Shugy

Mikeym70
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portable track press

Post by Mikeym70 » Fri May 27, 2016 2:21 pm

Fellas,

one trick I used when I separated the tracks on my 1010, was to rent a large ball joint press from Advance Auto Parts for the afternoon.

I utilized that press to it's fullest extent, with heat from the rosebud and walla, out the pin came.

reinstalled same way, but I believe I had to drive the pin through the first link before I had enough throat depth for the pin to fit in the ball joint press.
1010 gas crawler 6 way blade. New to me 3/2015.

theshanmand1!
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Post by theshanmand1! » Sun May 29, 2016 1:15 pm

when I split mine on the 58, I used the hot wrench on the link around the pin, a large drift & sledge hammer, the naughty words came naturally
she'll come, just keep pounding :D
yard dog
1958 4 Roller 4 speed Holt Blade Holt Winch
420 C
Industrial Yellow

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shugy368
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idler assy

Post by shugy368 » Sun May 29, 2016 7:35 pm

Removed Idler assy today, had to weld the jam nut to the setscrew to remove as it was broken down to where an allen, or alien for that matter would not work. Got that done, did some one say can 'o' worms? tore it all apart, oil seals were shot both idler brackets are ovaled at the shaft exits but the thrust plates look good as well as the shaft itself.After cleaning the idler wheel up the bushings look surprisingly good, is it a replace just because i'm there? or? I should know more after I mic everything, but it's just a tractor, right? :roll: Any and all pointers accepted, I thought 30 yrs of sailboats would push me over the edge! Not so sure now :wink:

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