JD 2010 crawler is a non-starter

SnowMoJoe · Post by **SnowMoJoe** » Sat Sep 03, 2016 7:48 am

Hi everyone,

I am a relatively new owner of a JD 2010 crawler with a 4-in-1 bucket.

It quit on me in the middle of a project and I'm looking for the likely suspects so I can take an organized approach to the repairs.

I was scraping my gravel driveway clean with it, no heavy pushing, and it began to stumble, put out black smoke (usually white/gray), and then it stalled and I have not been able to get it to restart. It just cranks and cranks.

It is normally a hard starter. You need to give it ether the first time you start it, and then once it's been working a while it will usually start right up without help. But ether no longer has the desired effect.

To me, with little diesel mechanic experience, it seems like a fuel filter being plugged, but the black smoke was concerning. If anyone has any advice, I'd love to hear it.

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Sep 03, 2016 9:25 am

I would change the filter first and bleed the system.
FYI 1010/2010 were never really able to start the first time cold, they need to be glow plugged 30 seconds at even warm temps to start.
Lavoy

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sat Sep 03, 2016 4:17 pm

First you should NEVER use ether on a 2010/1010..... on the side of the INJ pump there are 2 small screws about 1/2" apart (timing window) pull the cover look for "mouse turds" should only be clean fuel.. crank it over and see if anything turns in there ........ sounds like bad pump ... Pull fuel line at pump and see if you are getting fuel to the pump

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sat Sep 03, 2016 6:44 pm

Hi,

Using ether on a Diesel with glow plugs is risking catastrophic failure. I hope that practice hasn't caught up with you.....

Stan

SnowMoJoe · Post by **SnowMoJoe** » Sat Sep 03, 2016 8:06 pm

Well if that's the case, the ship has sailed on the ether a long time ago; I have only owned the machine about a year and used it around 5 times. The people I bought it from used ether on it, so I have no idea how many times that would have happened.

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Sun Sep 04, 2016 3:59 am

I would think with the black smoke, it is getting fuel. Obviously it's not firing the fuel so, it's either timed wrong or lacking compression. Possibly the use of ether has finally taken its toll. It wasn't said if it fired any cylinders or not. "THEY" say, using ether will cause breakage of piston rings which, will cause the loss of compression and therefore it won't run. All that being said, still seems odd that it would fail on all cylinders. That leaves a possible timing problem, leading us to the pump. The pump not only delivers the fuel to the injectors but, also times the fuel delivery. If the pump is faulty, that would explain the black smoke because it's getting fuel to the cylinders at the wrong time and not able to fire it.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:17 am

Hi,

It might have broken a ring on one cylknder, leading to a high drag, leading to the eventual stoppage of the engine even with the governor delivering a full fuel stroke. I would expect the starter to not turn it over if this were the case, though.

The black smoke indicates a rich burn in any case. Has the air intake been checked for a blockage? That would also lead to a rich burn and, if blocked enough, the engine stopping.....if this is the case, it would make for an easy fix.

Stan

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Sep 04, 2016 3:00 pm

1010/2010 will smoke black smoke, and I have seen white smoke on engines that are not burning water. The are a pre-cup engine, so behave differently than a direct injection engine, and start harder. Ether use without glow plugs won't hurt if used judiciously, but over use can break things just like any diesel.
The first thing to check is fuel filters, anything else is academic until you changed them and bled the system.
Lavoy

SnowMoJoe · Post by **SnowMoJoe** » Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:58 am

I will check the air cleaner this morning; pretty sure it should be clear but I can't specifically recall ever *really* checking it out.

Also, I can throw the battery in it and crank it and get a video of the process if that will help.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Mon Sep 05, 2016 6:31 pm

The black smoke indicates a rich burn in any case. Has the air intake been checked for a blockage? That would also lead to a rich burn and, if blocked enough, the engine stopping.....if this is the case, it would make for an easy fix.

Stan speaks truth.
When I bought my machine, the previous owner sold it to me because "it starts hard, won't run well, and bogs down under any load, so it's been parked."
Upon getting it home, I found the most significant problem was that the oil bath air filter was filled with a dirt/oil sludge that wouldn't allow the engine to breath. Cleaned it out (along with other typical cleaning/maintenance chores on any new-to-me machine), and the dozer coughed carbon bits all over me for a few days, then started to run more like it should. Good luck getting your problem sorted out and your machine dialed in.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Tue Sep 06, 2016 4:33 am

Hi,

Also....critters build nests in the strangest places....so maybe this is as simple as a wasp nest that moved in a tube and blocked it off.

Or, the inside of a rubber connecting tube has deteriorated into a self-sealing flap.

I have seen both before. And, such issues are worse on a diesel than a gasser since they need to pull a full volume of air for each cylinder all the time.

Besides, it is a far easier job to mess with the air intake than the fuel.

Stan

SnowMoJoe · Post by **SnowMoJoe** » Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:38 am

OK - I checked out the machine, and tried to crank it over (no ether this time.)

Some observations:
1) The air intake seems clear. Unless I completely missed something, this thing does not have an oil bath air filter. (I am not great with diesels, but I've rebuilt my share of gas engines, so I would know an oil bath air filter if I saw it; I had an old dumptruck that had one...

) I'll probably get a new air filter, because why not, but that seems unlikely to be the reason this isn't starting.

2) Cranking the engine produced little if any smoke at all. Normally I would be happy about this, I suppose.

3) The engine cranks very slowly/weakly. And once I was up there cranking it, I realized, it's always been like this. It doesn't seem to generate anywhere near enough energy to build up sufficient compression. It cranks like your car when the battery is 80% dead, and subsequently drains batteries very quickly.

By contrast, my John Deere 410D backhoe generates much greater energy/RPMs from the starter, and I think not coincidentally starts much easier/more reliably.

Also of interest, I used the same battery to try to start the 2010 that I normally use for the backhoe. On the 2010, the battery seemed like it was dead. But testing the terminals with a multimeter, I got 13.85 volts. Pretty good. Cranks the backhoe up no problem.

Hopefully this does not indicate the drag that was being discussed earlier.

4) After cranking for a bit, I disconnected the battery and the positive cable was very warm. (It's a positive-ground system, BTW.) I therefore have decided that first and foremost, I'll follow the cables back to their origins and clean up all the connections and grounds. Maybe the engine is getting a weak current, and that would explain at least some of #3?

Unfortunately, the machine is not here with me. I live in NJ and the loader is up at my house in PA. So I may have to string this out over some time, because I can't just go out in the yard and test out things. Looks like the next time I'll be able to get up there to turn some wrenches will be the last weekend in September.

I bought this machine to help get a small litany of tasks completed. I got it for what I felt was a really good price, so I would probably be willing to invest some $ in it to get it running like my backhoe does. If I had to rent a machine to do the work I want to do, I'd probably be looking at twice the $ in rental fees over what I paid for the machine, and at the end, if I want to, I can always sell the machine to recoup some of the costs, so all is not lost necessarily if this thing needs new rings or other significant engine work.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:45 am

High draw could be a bad starter assuming it has not had the wrong size cables put on it.
Lavoy

SnowMoJoe · Post by **SnowMoJoe** » Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:47 am

Here's another thought/question:

Is ethanol as much of a problem with diesel fuel as it is with gasoline? Ethanol has been wreaking havoc on my gas engines, esp. the smaller ones, and I've had to take a hard look at how long I'm storing my gasoline for. Should I be looking at diesel as critically as I am gasoline?

SnowMoJoe · Post by **SnowMoJoe** » Tue Sep 06, 2016 9:54 am

OK... bad starter. Occurred to me as well. A few years ago, I had the starter on the backhoe replaced, and the guy at the shop sold me on some kind of "high-energy" starter. Unfortunately neither my father nor I can recall much about the transaction, but does this sort of thing ring a bell with anyone? If so, would I be able to get one for this machine?

Because what I do remember is that there was GIGANTIC difference in the ease of starting the backhoe with the new starter - as I mentioned before, it produces way more RPM than it did before the switch.

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JD 2010 crawler is a non-starter

JD 2010 crawler is a non-starter

An attempt at starting, and some observations

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