1010C counterweights

George tracker · Post by **George tracker** » Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:00 pm

Learning to operate this with only left steering functional, until I can do steering clutches, then found another question. Using it as a digger/loader with the backhoe on was too clumsy, so I removed the hoe. The guy I got it from had counterweights, not bolted together, and two mounts to bolt them to. After removing the hoe I found that the two mounts do not fit the bracket the hoe mounts on, not even close. Since he gave me oper manuals for the 1010 and a 440, I wonder if they belong on a 440. The weights are square somewhere around 100+ pounds each and are slightly over 12 inches thick when stacked. Finally the question, does this machine need rear counterweights when operating as digger/loader? Am changing oil in Tranny so will not be digging for a couple days.

gregjo1948 · Post by **gregjo1948** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 4:35 am

It will dig without the counter weights but, will be very light on the rear. It will cause the machine to stand on it's front idlers too much and causing excessive wear on the idlers and front rollers. By balancing on it's nose also can cause it to tip over much easier if it drops one side into a hole or a dip in its path of travel. I would fabricate something to mount the counter weights.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 4:42 am

YES When Hoe is off you need weights IF you want to lift much at all ,,, the weights should be about 12 x 18" X 2" thick about 200 LBS each they bolt to 2 brackets the hang on the HOE BRACKET when hoe is OFF SET of 5 or 6 ....can you get pics of what you have? TIGERHAZE has 2010 that uses the same weight set-up he has pics im sure he should see this and post ....... When I got my 2010 loader it had froze left clutch to make left turn had to use reverse and pull right clutch till got it aimed where I wanted to go

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:05 pm

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:17 pm

Hi,

Um. That photo link is pointing at your computer, not a photohosting website....

Stan

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:35 pm

I have the counter weights on my loader, but I have a scarifer that has mounts for counter weights built into it.
I run 3 weights on it, it came with 5......without any weight the machine is pretty much useless rear end pops up and you spin the tracks trying to fill the bucket.
it also puts a ton of pressure on the front rollers and track frames, this most times ends in broken track frames.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:36 pm

Hey Stan That a little better???? I am lucky to get this newfangled crap to even turn on had to have 30 yr old help me post the page ..... WE were working on it when you posted

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:42 pm

mini kahuna wrote:I have the counter weights on my loader, but I have a scarifer that has mounts for counter weights built into it.
I run 3 weights on it, it came with 5......without any weight the machine is pretty much useless rear end pops up and you spin the tracks trying to fill the bucket.
it also puts a ton of pressure on the front rollers and track frames, this most times ends in broken track frames.

My 2010 also has ripper and yes weights BUT when you take hoe or ripper off then you need the weight pack as shown above

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 6:32 pm

jtrichard wrote:Hey Stan That a little better???? I am lucky to get this newfangled crap to even turn on had to have 30 yr old help me post the page ..... WE were working on it when you posted

Hi,

Oh, yeah! Loads better!

Stan

George tracker · Post by **George tracker** » Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:17 pm

ALL RIGHT. Those are the weights and brackets that I have. Just have one problem, in that the metal hydraulic lines across the top look like they will be in the way cause the weights will be too far forward. That I can overcome much easier than fabricating the whole bracket. Thanks much for the advice and the drawing.

Another question. The operators manual says to grease the lower rollers with a special gun that came with the tractor and special grease. I think mine may have disappeared many owners ago. Haven't checked with JD dealer yet and kinda apprehensive about their price for such thing even if it is still available. Any suggestions?

You can tell that I am feeling my way with this thing and finding new things about every day.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:28 am

Hi,

We have that last covered here:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... hp?t=10405

Essentially, you need John Deere Corn Head grease, which comes from JD Agricultural dealerships. Don't go into an Industrial dealership looking for it as they won't have any. And, you need a low pressure, high volume gun. A standard gun puts out way too much pressure and blows out roller seals.

Stan

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:25 am

And here is the gun

https://www.amazon.com/Alemite-4015-A4- ... B009K50ZOM

George tracker · Post by **George tracker** » Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:37 pm

Stopped by the Missoula JD store today and they had corn head grease. Surprise, there can't be a corn picker within 500 miles of here. The parts man was woefully ignorant on grease guns. Bought some grease, now just need to get it in the rollers without blowing seals (if they are still intact).
Thanks for the help and probably will be back for more. You folks are really appreciated.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Wed Oct 05, 2016 4:37 am

Hi,

It is useful in other things, like mower gearboxes with seepy seals. It is also part of the revolving rack-stand of JD grease tubes, so maybe they only have it for that reason....how dusty were the tubes??

As far as the guns go, only us fools with old crawlers need the low pressure one....

Stan

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