Just got a 1010 diesel, trying to get it going.
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
Just got a 1010 diesel, trying to get it going.
Picked up a package deal, 440 gas loader, and 1010 diesel dozer. Neither one has run, track and final needs work on the 440. Right now I'm trying to get the 1010 going.
The good. Tracks and sprockets look good. I'm not sure how to check them, but I didn't see any wear on the sprockets, or pins. Track feels good, no flex side to side.
Transmission looks good inside, shifter tower is stuck.
Not rusty at all, looks good overall.
Was tarped.
Oil in reverser looks good.
Need to look at the finals, make sure bearings are okay. Brakes work, no idea how steering clutchs are.
Bad... Engine got water in it. Exhaust must have been uncovered at some point, and filled cylinders with water. Lots of rust, engine is locked up. Needs head worked on, some stuck valves.
Estate deal, I have pretty much no info. Used in 1988 to build house.
No serial number, plate is missing from motor. Service manuals has 36769 written down, seems to match, but not sure.
Hydraulic reservoir cap was off, looks like ugly grease inside, so need to clean that and check pump didn't get water inside.
I paid 1000 for both (they were in a really bad spot, and I had equipment to get them out)
So I'm thinking of unbolting the rod caps, lifting sleeve deck out, pressing out pistons, new sleeve deck and piston rings.
Anyway to check reverser? I'll try to check injector pump once pistons are out, spin it with starter and see if injectors fire. What else can I check? Need to decide if I'm going to part it out or fix it.
I have no crawler experience, but am used to fixing big stuff. This would just be a toy, I have about a weeks worth of work for it, then it would be parked in the barn and used a couple times a year.
So far I need...
sleeve deck. 834 at deere
piston rings about 120 bucks, need to see what kind mine has.
Gasket set
Lots of oil.
I'll take any and all advice!
Cool site, I've been looking around a lot!
Dennis
[/img]
The good. Tracks and sprockets look good. I'm not sure how to check them, but I didn't see any wear on the sprockets, or pins. Track feels good, no flex side to side.
Transmission looks good inside, shifter tower is stuck.
Not rusty at all, looks good overall.
Was tarped.
Oil in reverser looks good.
Need to look at the finals, make sure bearings are okay. Brakes work, no idea how steering clutchs are.
Bad... Engine got water in it. Exhaust must have been uncovered at some point, and filled cylinders with water. Lots of rust, engine is locked up. Needs head worked on, some stuck valves.
Estate deal, I have pretty much no info. Used in 1988 to build house.
No serial number, plate is missing from motor. Service manuals has 36769 written down, seems to match, but not sure.
Hydraulic reservoir cap was off, looks like ugly grease inside, so need to clean that and check pump didn't get water inside.
I paid 1000 for both (they were in a really bad spot, and I had equipment to get them out)
So I'm thinking of unbolting the rod caps, lifting sleeve deck out, pressing out pistons, new sleeve deck and piston rings.
Anyway to check reverser? I'll try to check injector pump once pistons are out, spin it with starter and see if injectors fire. What else can I check? Need to decide if I'm going to part it out or fix it.
I have no crawler experience, but am used to fixing big stuff. This would just be a toy, I have about a weeks worth of work for it, then it would be parked in the barn and used a couple times a year.
So far I need...
sleeve deck. 834 at deere
piston rings about 120 bucks, need to see what kind mine has.
Gasket set
Lots of oil.
I'll take any and all advice!
Cool site, I've been looking around a lot!
Dennis
[/img]
If pistons are stuck bad enough to have to press them out, most likely will break ring lands in the process. If you pull the sleeve deck, I would drop the whole thing in a tub of water for a couple weeks at least prior to trying to press pistons out.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
Looks like it would be pretty good machine running
IF you have not done this yet you need to get a hone in the tops of each cylinder and clean out most of the top rust and crap then before you try to pull any pistons you need the get some bolts back in the plate either short bolts or the head bolts with pipe spacers on them
IF you have not done this yet you need to get a hone in the tops of each cylinder and clean out most of the top rust and crap then before you try to pull any pistons you need the get some bolts back in the plate either short bolts or the head bolts with pipe spacers on them
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
- vailvalley59
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:50 am
- Location: PA
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
I've been using "Freeze-Off". I think that's the name. It's made by CRC. I find it to be the best I've ever found for cutting stuck bolts,nuts, pistons, and etc.. Get it at NAPA.stretch44875 wrote:I'm keeping them wet with PB blaster. Think 3 of them will come right out. 4th one, think I'll have to push out. Hopefully no breakage!
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
Found another issue. Input shaft in transmission has about .100 endplay. I can see the rollers and cages of bearings, so not sure why. Maybe bearing retainer plate is loose.
Book says everything has to come apart, and pull transmission. I'm wondering if I remove track adjusters, looks like I'll have about 4 inches of slack. Then I could split tractor,and slide transmission back that far, and hopefully have enough room to pull retainer, and replace/shim tapered bearings.
Most of rust in pic came from shifter tower, it was landing inside...
Book says everything has to come apart, and pull transmission. I'm wondering if I remove track adjusters, looks like I'll have about 4 inches of slack. Then I could split tractor,and slide transmission back that far, and hopefully have enough room to pull retainer, and replace/shim tapered bearings.
Most of rust in pic came from shifter tower, it was landing inside...
Last edited by stretch44875 on Wed Oct 19, 2016 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
Did some measuring of the track. 3in link height. Getting a pitch measurement of 5.75, measured 4 of them, between top idler and rear sprocket, got 23 exactly.
Also tried to move track side to side, between top idler and rear sprocket, one side had zero movement, other side very little.
It rolls pretty easy, I can move it with tractor no problem. So looks like tracks are in great shape!
Also tried to move track side to side, between top idler and rear sprocket, one side had zero movement, other side very little.
It rolls pretty easy, I can move it with tractor no problem. So looks like tracks are in great shape!
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
Finally some good news. Pulled rod caps and lifted sleeve deck with pistons out. Rod bearings have no wear, looks like it was rebuild at some point. Just some slight polishing on the top bearing, no material is worn. Crank looks good.
3 pistons came out with a wood block. Last one I pressed out, used a large socket to push it out. Only bad news, when I repositioned the deck in the press, I broke a liner off. Not a big deal since I have another on the way, but would have been nice to bore the old one .020 as a spare.
Pistons have no wear in the ring grooves, and side skirts have no wear. Once I get the piston rings unstuck from the piston, should be good to go.
3 pistons came out with a wood block. Last one I pressed out, used a large socket to push it out. Only bad news, when I repositioned the deck in the press, I broke a liner off. Not a big deal since I have another on the way, but would have been nice to bore the old one .020 as a spare.
Pistons have no wear in the ring grooves, and side skirts have no wear. Once I get the piston rings unstuck from the piston, should be good to go.
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
- stretch44875
- 40C crawler
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2016 6:46 pm
- Location: Tiro, Ohio
Couple of videos we did of getting crawlers, and what needs fixed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtDRa5E3K-0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1aZO_Y_xps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtDRa5E3K-0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1aZO_Y_xps
440 gas loader, #440808, locked up, bad final
1010 diesel dozer, #36769, fixing.
Other old junk
1966 175 massey, loader
1952 Reo M108 crane truck(m35 wrecker)
1946 CJ2A jeeps
1010 diesel dozer, #36769, fixing.
Other old junk
1966 175 massey, loader
1952 Reo M108 crane truck(m35 wrecker)
1946 CJ2A jeeps
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