JD 1010 driveline issues

[304thomas55]

Ok thanks. I'll be checking it out soon and will be getting back with you all.

[Drew B]

Years ago I had my 1010 down in a creek doing some work, when it just quit moving. It would start and run fine, shifted fine, but would not move forward or backwards. Turns out the ring gear had sheared all of its attachment rivets off. There was power going through the clutch and transmission, but obviously not being transmitted to the final drives. So, if you try shifting the transmission without the clutch and it grinds, but goes into gear with the clutch depressed, you might have the same issue I had. It required pulling the final drives off, the rear-end out, and re-riveting the ring gear. There was no other damage, just a lot of labor involved.

[304thomas55]

So, item 9 on page 89 has rivets instead of bolts. What you've described is exactly what I'm experiencing. Did you put rivets back or use grade 8 bolts ?

Thanks.

[mini kahuna]

that is a huge amount of work to get to the ring gear, I am hoping for your sake it is up front at the clutch.

[Drew B]

Yes, it was a big job, so make sure you go through all the other troubleshooting steps first. When it happened to me, I first thought it was a clutch/transmission issue, so I pulled apart what I could to make sure what was turning and what wasn't. I was thinking broken coupler, broken transmission shaft, clutch issue, etc. When I narrowed it down to something in the rear, I pulled out the whole rear-end assembly and sure enough, I could spin the input shaft by hand but neither axle would turn.

I loaded the whole rear assembly up and took it down to my local John Deere dealer, and they disassembled, repaired, and reassembled the unit. I wanted them too do it because I wanted someone who had experience to set up and shim the ring and pinion gear/axle tolerances properly while it was all apart. Cost me 3 hours of their shop time but it was worth it to me.

They were able to use rivets because they found an old set still in the JD parts system, so I don't know if the alternative would have been to use grade 8 bolts, or if that would even work. Not sure if they would loosen under constant torque, or if the clearances would work. Others on this site might know. I think the JD guys actually got a kick out of working on such an old piece of yellow iron old school style.

But the JD shop time for the ring gear was the least of the time spent. Breaking down the tracks, finals, pulling the rear, then reassembling everything was a lot of time and effort on my part, so make sure you are thorough in properly diagnosing where the problem lies before you assume that particular malfunction. I used the opportunity to inspect and take care of a lot of other maintenance issues while things were all apart/reassembled, so I ultimately looked at it as time well spent.

Good luck.

[304thomas55]

Thanks for the info. Too bad there isn't an inspection plate . (in repair manual) I guess I could take rear cover off pg. 90 item 32-34 and see if shaft turns.

[Lavoy]

Rivets expand and fill all gaps, a bolt would not do that. On the two cylinder crawlers with bolted ring gears, there are two dowels to take the torque, and the bolts just kind of hold it together. On the riveted ones, only the rivets.
Lavoy

[304thomas55]

Lavoy I gotcha. When I used to work on steam turbines , we used what you call a body bound bolt. It was fitted by machining bolt to fit hole, then stretching it. The easiest thing would be to use rivets. Where would a person find the correct rivet to install ? Is there any way to see the ring gear without taking it apart ?

[Lavoy]

They are most likely a common rivet, problem is finding someone that handles rivets anymore. Look for a good old machine shop, they should have them.
You have minimal access to the ring gear through the back cover on the trans. No real sense spending much time in that area til you have narrowed it down as the cause.
Lavoy

[304thomas55]

Thanks Lavoy. Not too many machine shops anymore, CNC shops.