Jd2010 diesel won't stay running

[Tfrank]

Wanted to ask about my symtoms before I change the injector pump.

Bought a 2010 crawler loader to use as a donor for a dozer with like new running gear. I need the motor as the previous owner of dozer snapped crank with ether when it ran out of fuel trying to restart it.

I'm told the following by the previous owner of the crawler loader:
-The crawler loader was running but would only rev to approx 12-1300 rpms
-He then changed fuel filters and couldn't get it to run
-When I purchased it he could get it to fire but not continue to run

Now my experience:
-I checked his fuel filter job, all good
-I checked the return line, clear to tank
-I bleed the injectors
-I opened the timing window on pump, no dirt or crap and I could tell he had not opened it

I can get it to fire up everytime if I glow it for 30 secs plus then it stumbles off like its run out of fuel. I'm going to check if I crack the timing window open tommorow if that helps like I have read but I'm doubtfull.

Could it be sucking air somewhere? Or have I not got all the air out? When I bleed the injectors I only get spurts with not alot of force when I crack the banjo fittings. Normal?


Any help would be greatly appreciated .

Thanks,

Tfrank

[Tfrank]

couldn't wait till tommorow went out in dark and cracked the screws on timing window.....well i was wrong the motor picked up and kept running.

Now is the injection pump buggered or is the outlet for the rturn internal to the pump just plugged? There was no debris behind cover when I checked earlier.

Thanks again,

Tfrank

[jtrichard]

I would say that the governor ring is coming apart ,time for a rebuild...... and YES the return is most likely plugged with part of the ring....and the lack of high RPM (with P.O. ) would be a symptom of the ring coming apart and plugging the return

[gregjo1948]

Not sure but--if there is a check valve in the return line it may be faulty. Check on the pump where the return line is connected. A fitting that screws into the pump there is a check valve. take it off and blow thru it to see if it is blocking fuel, or air in this case, in the direction of the pump. It should allow fuel to go towards the injectors and on towards the fuel tank but, not back to the pump.

[vailvalley59]

Just remove the one-way valve in the return line and see if the machine will run normally. Many people have run for years this way (including me). If the line plugs up again, then you know the internal ring is failing and you can tackle that problem.

[gregjo1948]

Just remove the one-way valve in the return line and see if the machine will run normally. Many people have run for years this way (including me). If the line plugs up again, then you know the internal ring is failing and you can tackle that problem.

I had a JD 300A or 300B (don't remember which) that would only start and run for 30 seconds or so and quit because the check valve was faulty. Once I replaced the check valve it ran as it should. Why is the valve installed if the engine will run without it?

[vailvalley59]

I was to understand that the valve was to keep a certain pressure in the pump to help lube it--on my Farmall 706 the return line went into the bottom of the tank and perhaps it kept the extra weight of the fuel isolated from the pump. I just know it is a good test to see what you are dealing with. Many people would just break the little ball check out of the pump and keep on going.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

The idea is to keep the fuel flowing in the proper direction while letting the excess return to the tank. You can get into an operating position where gravity puts more fuel pressure into the pump from the return line than the lift pump puts into the feed line. At which point the machine is likely to quit just as if the return line were blocked.

This is more likely with a crawler than with a wheel tractor. Does anyone want it quitting at some high angle?

Stan

[Tfrank]

Thank you all for your advice.

Just got off work removed checkvalve fitting to find no glass ball but a piece of crudely bent wire through the orfice... needless to say someone thought they were doing something right or sabotageing someone.


I pulled the wire and install the fitting with no check and away she went!

So happy to know I got a good running motor. Now its time to pull it for cralwer loader and put it in the dozer! Hopefully thats as easy as this fix was haha!

[jtrichard]

Now that you know shes a runner you can get the pump rebuilt and have them do the up-grade that gets rid of the flex ring that is the problem at this time

[gregjo1948]

Now that you know shes a runner you can get the pump rebuilt and have them do the up-grade that gets rid of the flex ring that is the problem at this time

Why do you feel the flex ring is the problem?

[Tfrank]

I have no debris and it runs fine now. Pretty sure it was just the wire some one replace the check valve with for unknown reasons.

[gregjo1948]

I have no debris and it runs fine now. Pretty sure it was just the wire some one replace the check valve with for unknown reasons.

As inexpensive and easy to install as it is, I would replace the check valve.

[jtrichard]

THE ONLY time I have ever seen the check valve messed with is when it plugs up from ring debris .... The wire may have been some kind of attempt to keep it from plugging again (like a cotter pin in a clutch housing drain hole).... Yes i have punched out the check ball to make them run longer but it wont last forever and I have been told it leads to MORE(and expensive) damage to the pump in time

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Plus the fact that these rings all seem to eventually fall apart....

Stan