2010C tracks 42001- 1963 model loader
2010C tracks 42001- 1963 model loader
Lavoy, I read in one of your posts that the 2010 could use 350 tracks. So do you use the 2010 drive sprocket. I just got this loader from a great gentleman in Park Rapids, Mn. and am in the process of find parts. Thanks Ferrald
Did you get the crawler from Melvin?
Yes, you have to still use 2010 sprockets, they are unigue to only the 2010. There are two different sprockets for the 2010. The sprockets for after 42,000 are for the larger bushing chain. To put 350 rails on an earlier machine, you just use the later sprockets and you are ready to go, no other modifications needed.
If you decide you want to do this, I have one set of NOS large bushing sprockets left.
Lavoy
Yes, you have to still use 2010 sprockets, they are unigue to only the 2010. There are two different sprockets for the 2010. The sprockets for after 42,000 are for the larger bushing chain. To put 350 rails on an earlier machine, you just use the later sprockets and you are ready to go, no other modifications needed.
If you decide you want to do this, I have one set of NOS large bushing sprockets left.
Lavoy
Hi Lavoy-
Just to expand on this topic a little, when you say no other modiciations needed on the 2010 undercarriage to use the 350 rails, you're saying the rollers, top idler, and the front idler wheel are compatible? Just double checking?
Also, have they stopped production on the large bushing 2010 sprockets or is it just your last set at the moment?
I may want to do this with my 2010 at some point- I still haven't ascertained whether I have the early (smaller) busings or the later ones. I am looking at long-term replacement needs for the undercarriage, as I don't want to get stuck with no parts availability.
Thanks in advance.
Just to expand on this topic a little, when you say no other modiciations needed on the 2010 undercarriage to use the 350 rails, you're saying the rollers, top idler, and the front idler wheel are compatible? Just double checking?
Also, have they stopped production on the large bushing 2010 sprockets or is it just your last set at the moment?
I may want to do this with my 2010 at some point- I still haven't ascertained whether I have the early (smaller) busings or the later ones. I am looking at long-term replacement needs for the undercarriage, as I don't want to get stuck with no parts availability.
Thanks in advance.
For my 420, I was able to make a set of adaptor plates from the 420 hubs to the 350 sprockets. I would depend upon the diameter and the placement of the 2010 hub bolts.
I had to grind off the inner side of all the bolts that go from, or through, the adaptor plate to the 350 sprocket.
I used Grade 8, and there are more for the 350 than for the 420, so I figure have at least an equal amount of the bolting surface. The adaptor plate is about 3/4" thick.
I haven't put this to the test, yet, but I see no reason why it isn't going to work.
Gary
I had to grind off the inner side of all the bolts that go from, or through, the adaptor plate to the 350 sprocket.
I used Grade 8, and there are more for the 350 than for the 420, so I figure have at least an equal amount of the bolting surface. The adaptor plate is about 3/4" thick.
I haven't put this to the test, yet, but I see no reason why it isn't going to work.
Gary
Lavoy, Yes, Melvin was pleasure to meet had a good visit and it was my first time that far North, one of my partners and I, went up to buy it, That I-29 sure was a ruff one coming South to Omaha. I priced a set of sprockets through JD they said they could order them. E-mail me a price and I'll let you know. Also the chains , will the pads off the 2010 fit the 350 chains. It might be better to shot me a price on rollers top and bottom, front Idler also. This thing could use a total over haul of the under carriage. I've got another Dozer with a 6-way blade and a diesel engine in it, the pads on it are in good shape. I'll use it for spare parts Thanks Ferrald
Last edited by jd 2poper on Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hi Lavoy-
What other options do you see for those of us not lucky enough to have a new set of sprockets?
-Do you think that ggfossen's idea for an adapter plate to a 350 sprocket would work? It seems to me from casual observation that the 350 sprockets are a different configuration (wider and solid versus thinner and with "spokes"(cutouts)).
-Can older sprocket teeth be "built up" with weld? That seems like it would be tedious, if it could even work.
-Do you think that teeth on old sprockets could be cut off with a plasma cutter and then new teeth from a 350 sprocket cut off in a ring and then welded to the 2010 sprocket, much like the way that flywheel teeth are replaced on old tractor flywheels?
-Do you think a machine shop could custom manufactuer sets with a template and specs? I'm sure that would be pricey if possible.
I am not a machinist or weldor, so I am just throwing out ideas for discussion.
Any suggestions would be appreciated for all of us 2010 owners, as this problem isn't going to go away.
Thanks to all.
What other options do you see for those of us not lucky enough to have a new set of sprockets?
-Do you think that ggfossen's idea for an adapter plate to a 350 sprocket would work? It seems to me from casual observation that the 350 sprockets are a different configuration (wider and solid versus thinner and with "spokes"(cutouts)).
-Can older sprocket teeth be "built up" with weld? That seems like it would be tedious, if it could even work.
-Do you think that teeth on old sprockets could be cut off with a plasma cutter and then new teeth from a 350 sprocket cut off in a ring and then welded to the 2010 sprocket, much like the way that flywheel teeth are replaced on old tractor flywheels?
-Do you think a machine shop could custom manufactuer sets with a template and specs? I'm sure that would be pricey if possible.
I am not a machinist or weldor, so I am just throwing out ideas for discussion.
Any suggestions would be appreciated for all of us 2010 owners, as this problem isn't going to go away.
Thanks to all.
Tiger,
For the record, I did the adaptor plate so as to not ruin a quite good set of 420 sprockets when I went over to the 350s. If pins and bushings, for the 420, go out of print, saving the 420 sprockets might be a bit more academic...and a bit more waste of time. I could have removed the centers, and replaced the 350 center with the 420 center, but I thought keeping the 420s in good shape was more important.
As to the adaptor plates, themselves, I used a steel plate heavier than either of the sprockets, and I bored the holes on a run-of-the-mill shop drill press. Not rocket science, but it does take some patience to get the holes well aligned, and a couple of faily spendy bits. Don't even think about using cheap bits. The out edge of the plate was cut, initially, with a torch, and then ground into round...relatively round.
I'm collecting engine pieces, as we speak, so it shouldn't be too long before I know if everything goes around as it should.
Gary Fossen
PS: I am neither welder, nor machinist, but I am an incorrigable tinkerer.
For the record, I did the adaptor plate so as to not ruin a quite good set of 420 sprockets when I went over to the 350s. If pins and bushings, for the 420, go out of print, saving the 420 sprockets might be a bit more academic...and a bit more waste of time. I could have removed the centers, and replaced the 350 center with the 420 center, but I thought keeping the 420s in good shape was more important.
As to the adaptor plates, themselves, I used a steel plate heavier than either of the sprockets, and I bored the holes on a run-of-the-mill shop drill press. Not rocket science, but it does take some patience to get the holes well aligned, and a couple of faily spendy bits. Don't even think about using cheap bits. The out edge of the plate was cut, initially, with a torch, and then ground into round...relatively round.
I'm collecting engine pieces, as we speak, so it shouldn't be too long before I know if everything goes around as it should.
Gary Fossen
PS: I am neither welder, nor machinist, but I am an incorrigable tinkerer.
350 sprockets themselves will not bolt on. To look at them, they do not seem like they are the same diameter as a 350 sprocket, but they might be. If that is the case, they yes, you could sacrifice a set of 350 sprockets and cut the rim off of both and weld the 350 rim back on the 2010 centers. I am going to do some more checking on the 2010 sprockets just in case I can find some. My first calls yielded nothing, will try some more next week.
The good news as to sacrficing a pair of 350 sprockets is that they are readily available, and not expensive.
Lavoy
The good news as to sacrficing a pair of 350 sprockets is that they are readily available, and not expensive.
Lavoy
Measurments of pin and bushing on 2010
Lavoy, I was looking at the sprockets for the 2010 large bushing model my sent me and I was wondering about the size of the bushing on my chain. When I held the new sprockets up to the old, the old don't look to worn, but the chain on the crawler doesn't look like it fits the teeth of the sprocket. If you could post the pin and bushing size I would appreciate it. I think that this chain is a small bushing chain instead of large, if that is possible. Thanks
Per Lavoy in a different topic pertaining to the 2010:
"The serial number break as far as tracks is 42,000. There are some other breaks as far as the rest of the machine, different things like injectors and such. It is also possible that an early crawler has had the later rails put on. To tell which rails you have, measure the diameter of a track pin. Early rails are 1", late rails are 1 1/8". "
You should also be able to tell if it is early versus late from the sprocket part number- I just realized when looking at my 2010 sprockets that the part number is stamped right on the sprocket. I don't have the part numbers on me, but the early sprocket part number is different from the late sprocket by several thousand (something like 16xxx T versus 19xxx T). You might want to check your old sprocket for the part number and compare to the new ones, if visible on the old ones.
"The serial number break as far as tracks is 42,000. There are some other breaks as far as the rest of the machine, different things like injectors and such. It is also possible that an early crawler has had the later rails put on. To tell which rails you have, measure the diameter of a track pin. Early rails are 1", late rails are 1 1/8". "
You should also be able to tell if it is early versus late from the sprocket part number- I just realized when looking at my 2010 sprockets that the part number is stamped right on the sprocket. I don't have the part numbers on me, but the early sprocket part number is different from the late sprocket by several thousand (something like 16xxx T versus 19xxx T). You might want to check your old sprocket for the part number and compare to the new ones, if visible on the old ones.
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