Governor thrust washer question?

[ggfossen]

Lavoy,

While digging around, I came upon a post where you say that there is a thrust washer between the governor bearing and the block.

I don't recall seeing one in mine, and there were none in the pan. Also, there were none lying around when I finished clean-up after installing the engine on the tractor.

Might it have been lodged solidly against the block?

What kind of problems might occur if that thrust washer is not in place?

Gary

PS: I'm not crazy about pulling the radiator, and then the governor, but will if necessary. I still haven't put fluid in the radiator, so that's a plus

[Lavoy]

There is a brass looking washer that should be between the governor and the block. I hate to say this, but I would take it apart and put one in. Without it, the gear will be turning right on the block and will create shavings and eventally ruin the gear. All of the thrust created by the weights is handled by this washer.
Lavoy

[ggfossen]

Lavoy,

OK. It shall be down. In the event the thrust washer is not there, is it something that I have to special order? I don't remember exactly how the unit is put together. Is it located immediately on the end of the shaft that enters into the block?

Maybe the last is sort of academic. I will know...soon enough.

Thanks.

Gary

[Lavoy]

Gary,
I normally keep them on hand (dropped too many in the pan not to). You can probably get it locally just as fast.
Yes, it fits over the shaft on the end of the governor assembly.
Lavoy

[ggfossen]

Lavoy,

OK, I have a bronze washer that is a bit skinny, but probably too thick. I have a couple of various sizes of steel washers, and I have one copper washer that seems to fit perfectly.

I'm hesitant to use the steel because I assume the washer is meant to be sacraficed. The steel may cause the wear to be on the parts, and not the washer.

I wonder if the copper washer might be a bit too soft, but, at this stage, anything I ever knew about metalurgy escapes me.

That leaves a thick bronze washer a bit to small in diameter. I think I will beat on it with a hammer, and make it thinner and wider in diameter, and use it...unless it breaks in the process, and then I will use the copper washer.

Any thoughts?

Gary

[Lavoy]

Given how critical an item this is, how hard it is to replace if it fails, and the dollars and time spent repairing the damage if a home made piece fails, I would buy the replacement part from Deere, then there is no doubt.
Lavoy

[ggfossen]

Lavoy,

I guess I kinda' knew you were going to say that. I had one of those brain farts yesterday. I was in JD, and could have ordered it, and it would have been here Monday, but I just KNEW that I would find it down the road road in a hardware store.

Now, I've decided that I will also replace the high pressure hydro line while I have things apart. I should of had that done 2 months ago.

Thanks,

Gary

PS: Part is ordered. It will be in town Tuesday. One of JDs strong points. I'll have maybe 50 cents in the part, and 30 dollars in diesel fuel.

So much for good planning.

[Lavoy]

The pressure line from the pump to the valve is still a good number, and not that pricey.
If I was you, I would have the dealer drop ship the part to your door. If he is charging you machine down freight anyway, it just as well come straight to your door.
Lavoy

[ggfossen]

Lavoy,

I didn't think about the drop ship part. Good plan. I will check on the hose/pipe when I go in for the washer. I WILL get this project together! Today, I managed to blacksmith the legs of the ROPS back into alignment. I have to add some choker hangers, and then on to the mounting brackets.

Thanks,

Gary