Pulling the final drive on a 1010

[wwattson]

Well, my first project with the crawler (riding arena for my wife's horse habit) and my last project of the season is coming to a close and I'm getting ready to roll the 1010 into the shop to start the teardown. The manual shows a sort of metal loop with bends at either end to engage holes in the final drive case to assist in rotating the unit and lifting it off. Is this something that anyone on the list has made and is this the best way lifting off the final drives. Thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

[bitcoder]

The mechanic I hired to fix the final drive on my 1010C just whacked off the rail where the sprocket covers are mounted with a cutting torch then welded it back on afterwards. Which made me furious and I've never had him do work for me since. He did this of course so final drive input shaft could be pulled directly out of the transmision and not have to rotate the bottom part of the final drive housing over the rail. I did the other side myself and made up a metal half circle with ends bent 90 degrees at each end but it wasn't much help because the rod was soft steel and wanted to straighten out when final drive was lifted with chain hoist. I would use hardened steel for making the rod next time.

[JD430C]

i have removed several 1010 and 350 final drives. i find it just as easy to put a bolt in one of the holes in the rear mounting pad and then run a chain from that to the lifting device. works pretty good.

andrew

[bitcoder]

Sounds like this would work, we'll try this when we pull the final drives on my son's 1010C. As I recall, the rear mounting pad on a 1010C has 4 bolt holes in a 3" square bolt patten. Do you recall if any difference which bolt hole is used? And thanks for the tip.

[JD430C]

bitcoder, i use one of the top two, i think usually the outside one, but as long as there is someone there to steady it, it wont matter. u just need to raise it enough to clear the track frame.

andrew

[hunter41mag]

Bill,

For my 440IC project I made up the u shaped metal rod but heated the rod to put the 90 degree bends in. One thing I found is the u shaped lifting rod starts to work its way out while lifting the final drive. So I used a rachet strap to keep pressure pushing in on the u shaped lifting rod. This will make sure the final drive does not end up on ones foot because it sliped off the u shaped lifting rod.

Don
Eastern PA
440IC

[wwattson]

Good thought Don on the strap. I've never seen one of the actual lifting rigs but I imagined that the hooks at the end were probably bent somewhat past 90% to assist with using the weight of the drive to force it onto the hooks. Thing that bothered me about it was just what you said. Pretty easy to see the drive on your foot or in your lap from twisting it around and pulling it out. I'll use a strap.

The bolt idea seems like it would prevent a lot of the issues so long as you had a way of rotating the drive. I thought of an engine leveler but didn't know if it would have enough adjustment.

You can see from the pictures of my crawler in Show and Tell that somewhere along the line somebody chopped the frame rail in front of the sprockets (or assuming they did) so pulling the drive will be easier for me. However, assuming that I restore the rails to the original length, I'm right into the lift and twist problem.

Lavoy or anyone that knows for sure, am I right in assuming the rails were cut?

[Lavoy]

Yes it does look like your rails were cut. On the two cylinder crawlers with 4 rollers, the long track frame for sprocket shields was an option. I don't believe this is the case on the 1010.
Cutting the rails is the lazy man's way of doing it, the final does not need to be rotated that much to get it on and off. Once the drive shaft is in a little bit, the final can be rotated back to it's normal positioin.
Instaed of using a rod, I had a short section of cable made with loops in each end. I put a pulley in the middle of it, and then bolt the loops to the same holes in the final that the rod goes in, but being bolted, it can't come out. Lifting from the pulley allows me to rotate the final as much as I need to to remove it.
Lavoy

[bighamlin]

I will soon be at this stage myself. I plan on taking 3/4" round, turn each end down to 1/2" in the lathe, then put a 90 deg bend on each end just above the reduction and then put the bow in the middle. Basicly making a beefed up version of the one shown in the tech manual. Also, I plan on doing less than a full "U" bend in the middle, more like a 1/4 moon. I think the grab hook end of the chain hoist will slide better on the 1/4 moon shape since the center of gravity will be low, just enough to clear the final drive shaft quill though. It just seems like 1/2" round would sag to much. Hope it works.

Paul

[Magoo1]

Just put the final on the 440 last week in, the loop works but If I build another one I would make the 90 long enough to thread and put a nut on the back side to keep the loop in place. You could remove the nut after the unit is with -in an inch or so of being in place. Also the unit is off balance which would work better with two men. To help balance the unit you could use one inside hole (pad on back).

Juast my $.02

Magoo

[bighamlin]

Good idea Magoo1. That got me thinking. I will make the ends that go into the housing longer and cross drill in the end and use a pin to hold the final on. That way you can pull the pin with needlenose just before the final is all the way on.

[wwattson]

The pin is a great idea! I'm going to try the different methods between pulling the drives and putting them back on and see what works best.

[hunter41mag]

The cotter pin ideal seems pretty good, I will also give it a try. I have enough length on mine to drill the hole for it. Especially if the hole is kept so the outside is facing up around the 2 oclock position. Or better yet a clevis pin clip might even be better.

Don
Eastern PA
440IC

[Trucker Dan]

When I took the final drives out of my 1010, I took the whole track frame off wich in turn allows you to pull the final strait out without turning it. The reason I did it that way was there were quite a few broken bolts from the rock guards and I took the track frame to a weld shop and he cut out the piece where the front idler rides and welded in a new piece. any 1010 Ihave seen is worn pretty bad there. they should have made them with a replacable wear plate there. It is also easier to drill out the broken bolts in the track frame ( OF WICH I AM SURE YOU WILL HAVE) when the frame is sitting on a bench. After I removed the rock guards and rollers I used a 35 ton bottle jack and a piece of chain and a lot of choice words to get the thing to come off. Needless to say it was no picnic.