No spark at plugs 1010 gases
No spark at plugs 1010 gases
hello everyone my 1010 gas Engine has Power to coil am getting pulse light with test light on wire to
Distributer no spark at plugs help
Distributer no spark at plugs help
Old Iron Young Heart
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
replace condenser..make sure points opening
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Replaced points condenser cap rotor wires plugs coil the coil seem to get Hot when trying to start
Not getting spark out coil either
Not getting spark out coil either
Old Iron Young Heart
-
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:34 pm
- Location: Shiner, texas
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Pulse says points are closing and opening. Probably bad coil or wrong voltage.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Thanks I don't think it's the coil but will check voltage
Friday
Friday
Old Iron Young Heart
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
I have had coil failures on my 1010. Starts with weak spark. Open and close points with distributor cap off and see the spark at point contacts.
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Hi,
I see. Dupe threads. I answered in the other one, but will copy it here.
Test coil output by hooking one plug to the coil directly, setting plug on anything metal - hard to find metal on a crawler - and see if the coil is good on the HV side. After that, you get to look at the cap and rotor if you have spark right out of the coil.
You say coil gets hot, so I now suspect the HV winding is shorted internally....
Stan.
I see. Dupe threads. I answered in the other one, but will copy it here.
Test coil output by hooking one plug to the coil directly, setting plug on anything metal - hard to find metal on a crawler - and see if the coil is good on the HV side. After that, you get to look at the cap and rotor if you have spark right out of the coil.
You say coil gets hot, so I now suspect the HV winding is shorted internally....
Stan.
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Look at the voltage regulator output. Simple voltage check at the battery with engine running. After totally rewiring it, my 1010 was actually melting down the plastic portion of the mounting body of the points and the coil was extremely hot, so hot that it self destructed. Put in another new coil,voltage regulator, ceramic resistor and new points, condenser (Deere loves me). My new voltage regulator was socking 18 volts to the battery. Which I believe was what was happening when I melted down the points and coil the first time. Thanks to an old friend (90) who knew how to readjust the output of the regulator my battery is now receiving 14.5 volts and all is well. I can even hold my hand on the coil. I hate ignition problems!!
Good luck,
JAJ
Good luck,
JAJ
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
I won't Be able to get to 1010 today but will tomorrow just want to thank everyone for responding have a great day
Old Iron Young Heart
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Getting spark out of distributor but still not at the plugs
Have 12 volt to coil and good spark jumping from dist wire
To ground cap rotor and wires seem real good HELP
Have 12 volt to coil and good spark jumping from dist wire
To ground cap rotor and wires seem real good HELP
Old Iron Young Heart
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Hi,
Now you have to check and see about the Rotor and Cap. That rotor has to be in line with a cap output post when the points open or you get nothing at the plug. It may easily be as simple as having the distributor out of time.
You also need to be sure that the spring contact is good where it mates up with the coil post of the cap. What I would do is manually turn the engine to where the rotor was pointing at a cap post, then use an ohmmeter between the coil post and the plug post. That would tell me if those parts are good. Then, add in a plug wire and measure again. Do that manual test for all four plug posts and you will know if your rotor, cap and wires are good.
Once you know that the bits are good, you can check the timing of the distributor, then try it cranking with the plugs outside the holes so you can see sparks. This final test is of the plugs themselves, which can have things wrong with them, too.
Oh, and I never use Resistive wires on old iron. Always real copper wire. These things have about as much spark power as a half-dead firefly and need all the conductivity they can get.
Stan
Now you have to check and see about the Rotor and Cap. That rotor has to be in line with a cap output post when the points open or you get nothing at the plug. It may easily be as simple as having the distributor out of time.
You also need to be sure that the spring contact is good where it mates up with the coil post of the cap. What I would do is manually turn the engine to where the rotor was pointing at a cap post, then use an ohmmeter between the coil post and the plug post. That would tell me if those parts are good. Then, add in a plug wire and measure again. Do that manual test for all four plug posts and you will know if your rotor, cap and wires are good.
Once you know that the bits are good, you can check the timing of the distributor, then try it cranking with the plugs outside the holes so you can see sparks. This final test is of the plugs themselves, which can have things wrong with them, too.
Oh, and I never use Resistive wires on old iron. Always real copper wire. These things have about as much spark power as a half-dead firefly and need all the conductivity they can get.
Stan
Last edited by Stan Disbrow on Sat Jul 15, 2017 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Following Stan's thoughts on the Distributor cap, Do you have the right one? I think some engines have the post positions in a different location from what your machine needs. Just a thought. Good luck. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Put your old parts back on one item at a time and test as you go. Maybe you can find the problem part by elimination.
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases
Well crazy day I ran a direct wire to a new switch to negative on coil (with internal resister) and changed condenser got spark but seemed week spraid some starter
Fluid into carb with switch on turned starterkey with
Choke engaged right hand slowly trying to find sweet spot
On timing small fire started beneath starter put it out
Quickly pulled starter to find out wire to bat was in real
Bad shape with exposed cracks all over replaced with a
4 gauge starter cable (7:30pm only one I can find)Well
She started and roared happy now I can move on to
Other problems Thanks everyone for responding and helping.Next two questions is 4ga good enough for starter
Cable and is there an easy way to get bottom nut on
Starter
Fluid into carb with switch on turned starterkey with
Choke engaged right hand slowly trying to find sweet spot
On timing small fire started beneath starter put it out
Quickly pulled starter to find out wire to bat was in real
Bad shape with exposed cracks all over replaced with a
4 gauge starter cable (7:30pm only one I can find)Well
She started and roared happy now I can move on to
Other problems Thanks everyone for responding and helping.Next two questions is 4ga good enough for starter
Cable and is there an easy way to get bottom nut on
Starter
Old Iron Young Heart
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