No spark at plugs 1010 gases

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
Vti5
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No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 9:40 am

hello everyone my 1010 gas Engine has Power to coil am getting pulse light with test light on wire to
Distributer no spark at plugs help
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dtoots1
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by dtoots1 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 1:58 pm

replace condenser..make sure points opening

Vti5
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:24 pm

Replaced points condenser cap rotor wires plugs coil the coil seem to get Hot when trying to start
Not getting spark out coil either
Old Iron Young Heart

original possum
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by original possum » Tue Jul 11, 2017 4:53 pm

Pulse says points are closing and opening. Probably bad coil or wrong voltage.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

Vti5
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 10:19 pm

Thanks I don't think it's the coil but will check voltage
Friday
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sl1250c
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by sl1250c » Wed Jul 12, 2017 5:10 am

I have had coil failures on my 1010. Starts with weak spark. Open and close points with distributor cap off and see the spark at point contacts.

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Stan Disbrow
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Stan Disbrow » Thu Jul 13, 2017 6:09 am

Hi,

I see. Dupe threads. I answered in the other one, but will copy it here.

Test coil output by hooking one plug to the coil directly, setting plug on anything metal - hard to find metal on a crawler :P - and see if the coil is good on the HV side. After that, you get to look at the cap and rotor if you have spark right out of the coil.

You say coil gets hot, so I now suspect the HV winding is shorted internally....

Stan.
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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JAJ
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by JAJ » Fri Jul 14, 2017 6:56 am

Look at the voltage regulator output. Simple voltage check at the battery with engine running. After totally rewiring it, my 1010 was actually melting down the plastic portion of the mounting body of the points and the coil was extremely hot, so hot that it self destructed. Put in another new coil,voltage regulator, ceramic resistor and new points, condenser (Deere loves me). My new voltage regulator was socking 18 volts to the battery. Which I believe was what was happening when I melted down the points and coil the first time. Thanks to an old friend (90) who knew how to readjust the output of the regulator my battery is now receiving 14.5 volts and all is well. I can even hold my hand on the coil. I hate ignition problems!!
Good luck,
JAJ

Vti5
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Fri Jul 14, 2017 10:09 am

I won't Be able to get to 1010 today but will tomorrow just want to thank everyone for responding have a great day
Old Iron Young Heart

Vti5
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 12:33 pm

Getting spark out of distributor but still not at the plugs
Have 12 volt to coil and good spark jumping from dist wire
To ground cap rotor and wires seem real good HELP
Old Iron Young Heart

Vti5
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 12:36 pm

Forgot to mention good spark at points HELP
Old Iron Young Heart

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Stan Disbrow
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Stan Disbrow » Sat Jul 15, 2017 3:34 pm

Hi,

Now you have to check and see about the Rotor and Cap. That rotor has to be in line with a cap output post when the points open or you get nothing at the plug. It may easily be as simple as having the distributor out of time.

You also need to be sure that the spring contact is good where it mates up with the coil post of the cap. What I would do is manually turn the engine to where the rotor was pointing at a cap post, then use an ohmmeter between the coil post and the plug post. That would tell me if those parts are good. Then, add in a plug wire and measure again. Do that manual test for all four plug posts and you will know if your rotor, cap and wires are good.

Once you know that the bits are good, you can check the timing of the distributor, then try it cranking with the plugs outside the holes so you can see sparks. This final test is of the plugs themselves, which can have things wrong with them, too.

Oh, and I never use Resistive wires on old iron. Always real copper wire. These things have about as much spark power as a half-dead firefly and need all the conductivity they can get. ;)

Stan
Last edited by Stan Disbrow on Sat Jul 15, 2017 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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Paul Buhler
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Paul Buhler » Sat Jul 15, 2017 5:26 pm

Following Stan's thoughts on the Distributor cap, Do you have the right one? I think some engines have the post positions in a different location from what your machine needs. Just a thought. Good luck. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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gregjo1948
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by gregjo1948 » Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:58 am

Put your old parts back on one item at a time and test as you go. Maybe you can find the problem part by elimination.
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford

Vti5
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Re: No spark at plugs 1010 gases

Post by Vti5 » Mon Jul 17, 2017 12:11 am

Well crazy day I ran a direct wire to a new switch to negative on coil (with internal resister) and changed condenser got spark but seemed week spraid some starter
Fluid into carb with switch on turned starterkey with
Choke engaged right hand slowly trying to find sweet spot
On timing small fire started beneath starter put it out
Quickly pulled starter to find out wire to bat was in real
Bad shape with exposed cracks all over replaced with a
4 gauge starter cable (7:30pm only one I can find)Well
She started and roared 😅happy now I can move on to
Other problems Thanks everyone for responding and helping.Next two questions is 4ga good enough for starter
Cable and is there an easy way to get bottom nut 🥜 on
Starter 🤔
Old Iron Young Heart

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