440ic stering clutch replace

[dtoots1]

o.k. am contemplating getting into this left clutch problem.

have removed the left fender and r.o.p.s and the drive wheel cover.(sprocket)

Looking at this booger and appears that i will have to at least detach the large bolts from the dozer mount at the final and i know i have to break the track loose....i don't think that just taking the 4 bolts out will let me move the final cover so am wondering if the assembly at the axle needs taken apart to allow room to maneuver the final out.... almost looks like i have to demount the side frame to get to those bolts into the final.

have front half up and need to know also do i have to take back skid plate off and jackstand directly on the axle ...if the dozer mount at the final needs to be taken apart to remove final cover etc....

Lavoy, i have the pattern for the 2010 clutch (engine)
gauge but don't know if same applies for the 440.

thanks
dtoots1

[Lavoy]

Don't pull the axle, that is a pain. Once the 4 bolts into the crossbar and out, and the 8 bolts around the final drive, you just pull it out a few inches and then rotate the whole assembly enough to clear the track frame.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Lavoy or anyone,

how do you relieve pressure on the hydraulic track adjusters without letting the ball come out.....seems everyone has trouble with the dang thing and i don't want to get into having it come out......is the ball under the zerk fitting or is it in the cap bolt that appears next to it....and which should i remove to relieve the pressure without the ball coming out????

[Lavoy]

Back the set screw off a few turns and leave it. The grease comes out of a relief hole in the bottom of the adjuster.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

well no answers yet on the adjuster.... so i went to work on the master link.....have not released pressure yet ...had to take 2 track shoes off 1 bolt thread boogered out on the NUT had to pursway it off....ok....smacked pin couple times with big sledge....not handy to do.....firewrench to heat around master pin still no go....check and see just what doing....track chain link loose enough to make a bit of bind....so.....get long bolt 1/2x 1 1/2 bar and use track shoe on other side and keep tight and in line .....then i used a small 3 lb sledge..short handle....smack her good and see head of pin move a bit...oiled her up good and keep smacking and she moves out!!!!!! now to see just how much work i got yet.... incidentally that track shoe lined up nicely with the pin shoulder and sure did help get her out

[dtoots1]

hey Lavoy,

on the large bolts at the axle flange....do i heat around the bolt on the final or is that cast iron and will crack? Hell i only weigh 140 lbs and they aint moving.....also those dang dowel pins aint a wanting to budge either do they need heat around the final as well??? i will take the last 8 or so bolts out after i get these others out. haven't even tried the 2 on the inside under dozer yet

thank you
dtoots1

[Lavoy]

Unless you get it glowing to the point it melts, you should be fine. Often times heat is the only way they come apart.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Well folks the saga continues!!! Finally was able to get the left final off my jd440ic dozer....
Definitely have a collapsed pressure plate...all three fingers collapsed and locked down of course that has also caused other damage..viz...throwout bearing....carrier sleeve(tube). Further i have actually a broken in half brake band it actually broke at the pivot bracket on lower 5 o'clock quadrant and brake lining is better shape than old brake band i got with used parts for it.

I had let a farmer friend use the machine and i noticed he was having a problem (220lb feller) really got a bit too enthusiastic and suspect that actually broke the brake band......just a caution for anyone out there it can happen!!!!

Needless to say Lavoy has opportunity for replacement parts ....if he has them....

Just as info, I have a complete JD440 engine...minus the distributor...it is locked up from setting outside..tranny (top half of shifter lever is broke off) with inner steering casing and reverser all off loader machine that i got as parts with mine....if any interested, including Lavoy. Once i get my machine back together I might be interested in going thru these parts and fixing.

Meanwhile the machine has been working great except for the left steering

[dtoots1]

Lavoy or anyone,

will the pressure plate and brake drum unit come off the shaft together so that i can really heat the fastening nuts and bolts...can only get an open end on the nut and trying to booger it up....so if i can get off as unit i can really get torch to it...i do have extra fastening bolts from my stash of extra parts.....so with the old pressure plate fingers jammed is that putting additional pressure on these pressure plate fastener bolts??? if booger too much i am tempted to just cut em off. what say you guys???

read in posts that when putting pressure plate back on that they put bolt head on inside and nut out on the pressure plate side to eliminate bolt end drag on housing if happens to be too long

[Lavoy]

You can pull the pinion shaft out of the final drive yes, and the whole drum will be out. Use the right length bolts, put a lock washer under the head, not the nut and you won't have problems.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Well it seems i can NOT pull that shaft out with the stupid pressure plate attached....got the fire wrench out and heated each of the nuts carefully....trying not to burn the fibres.....BUT i had to break 2 of the fingers on pressure plate and last one moved to release pressure. i now have the dang thing off..broke one of the pressure plate bolts..looking at the fibres appear shiny and glazed but are NOT oily.. steels are rusty and have glazed spots...appears to be fibres caught on the steels....now i have old set of fibres and steels from donor and have to compare to see which better......will try to clean up steels....wire wheel em???

mite as well bite the bullet and get new fibres, steels, throwout bearing and sleeve (tube) yes and brake band.

Lavoy tells me to put lock washer under bolt head...not nut....it was posted somewhere to put bolts thru so the nut was on the pressure plate side (but to do that will have to take drum off shaft to get bolts behind, will try Lavoys method)..that side does have a small shoulder with bolt head there sockets nor box end really set correctly and booger corners off....wonder if room for small flat washer??? would that cause problems????? ALSO...do i never seize these type of bolts or do i use locktite????

another question on the never seize...as much as these long bolt do seize up....use never seize on the shaft but not on the end threads to keep from losing nuts due to vibration???

thanks
dtoots1

[Lavoy]

I have no idea on how many steering clutches I have done, but I have never one time put the bolts in backwards, it is just not necessary. With the lockwashers under the head, a socket fits much better. I squeeze the pressure plate down with a clamp so I am not using the bolts to pull it together.
Nuts will never hit the final case unless the pinion bearings go out.
One thing you can do if you want is change the bolts to socket head cap screws, then you can run them with an impact wrench and allen impact socket while you hold the nut with a needle nose pliers. Still use the lockwashers under the head.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Good job....and yes it certainly does make sense to get that lock washer under the head...so can get socket on it.. and certainly use clamps to pull pressure plate in....them bolts sure need the help...when i broke pressure plate bolt i was using a 6 inch 3/8 drive breaker bar and thought the nut was turning...it wasn't.

[dtoots1]

well the goods news is that our favorite....LAVOY has all the parts i need to fix this booger!!! and I am happy with the price $625 + shpg etc...for all the guts to the steering/brakes include complete brake band! Not good but certainly not bad since i just had to put new master cylinder in my durango myself and then had to have garage/mech get into it....cause the new one I put in...was NOT any good....that cost me over $400 to take off 4 bolts and 2 tubes.plus another new master...tho i did get refund on the bad one ......@ a.zone

now to hurry up and wait to get parts and back together


the saga continues

thanks guys
dtoots1

[hdokes]

Hey dtools1,

I am not certain but I think some of the parts on the 440i are cross compatible with the 350b which is what I have. I have begun to reach out to Lavoy to find out if he will have parts I know I will need but would like to also entertain what you may have for spare parts. I know I am going to need the two (inner and outer) tension springs, protective tension spring plates for both left and right sides, etc.

I will be curious to find out what shipping ran from Lavoy in ND to you in Acron. I am in Indiana and certainly if you had parts that would work it would be a much easier jaunt to run over to your place to pick them up. I get over your way much more often than I get to ND.