440ic stering clutch replace

[Lavoy]

Other than the throwout bearing and tube, I can't of any 350 steering clutch parts that are common with a 440.
Lavoy

[hdokes]

Would tension springs and covers be compatible?

[dtoots1]

hello hdokes,

well the good news is....i ordered parts on 26th arrived here in Akron area (norton) on the 28th ......U.S. Post office delivery and yes I had to sign for it....i think price shown on box was $29.....i have not seen the bill yet. and yes 2 days aint bad at all. ((edit note took 2 days not 3!!))

per Lavoys message does not appear my donor parts would help....I think the springs and protective tension spring plates? you are talking about may not be on a 440?

Did get my 440 together charging up battery now will see what i have accomplished....still plenty to do to get all back together but i need to know if she works....

and anytime you are in Akron area it would be a pleasure to get together, i am about 10 miles east of I-71 just off u.s. 76/224!

good luck with your project
dtoots1

[dtoots1]

and NOW testing in the air....both tracks are moving...she squealed a bit at first...i need yet to set the brake band since i left a loose as i could...have not tried to apply steering brake as yet. Quite frankly i was worried since quite a few have had problems with these boogers......i really had to do a lot of hammering with a rubber mallet to get the final in the last inch or so....and even after i had the bolts all started bumping with the mallet sure did help a lot...those 4 bolts for the blade mount at the final even were troublesome but mallet bumping helped get them in...i never seized all bolts..when i put back together.. and when i took them off heated all nuts....the mount bolts had to be heated on the final body itself as well as the bolts thru final into the skid plate. when putting track back together...it is very important to get track on sprocket and leave loose towards front idler...also i heated the master pin opening on the outer links and it went in very easily....i also never seized that and put the b and a half locking ring in the pin...only way i got it to go was get a socket same size as pin and take it to my vice and force it on the socket...i then took crescent wrench and hammered the ring off the socket directly onto the pin....i used the track shoe on pin head and bolt thru track with 1/2 x 1 1/2 bar to hold pin tight. i am worn out and have the rest to do yet it has been challenging but really has not been really bad.....i did have a family friend (female) over to help me get the final out and back in but rest of it has all been by myself......had a pretty hard time getting the skid plate out (bent a bit from previous owners) took sledge to it and seems pretty straight now....just wonder if it will go back in there....front plate still bent and i have to be under this thing to lift it in place..not sure i like that..we will see what can be done....had to use hoist to get final up and out and same time use come along to rotate final to get past side track frame with the help it sure was needed!!!! one heavy booger for such a small machine!!!!

Lavoy
i also need to adjust engine clutch...i sure hope that it aint worn out!!!!....is there any way to check visual or mechanical points to indicate wear???

will continue when i get her out and moving about
thanks for all the help from Lavoy and everyone
dtoots1

[dtoots1]

ok so steering checks out up in the air.....both tracks work pretty good with no weight on em yet....adjusted engine clutch now it doesn't engage till about the last inch or so...that is with 1 inch free play....is that telling me my clutch is about gone??? at 1.25 to 1.50 inch clutch engages sooner ....which is best way to get clutch adjusted 1in or 1.5 free play?... before i get all stuff back on...it was pushing and pulling very nicely at the higher free play clearance.

still have to see if can adjust reverser clutches...kinda 2 man job to wiggle the lever and turn adjusting ring as have to adjust rear first then forward which is on other side.

has original used look am not taking all apart to paint her.

will do some test runs and see if working properly then back to change oils etc...before i put skid plate back on...and canopy...then i gotta put my harbor freight winch on her....luckily previous had changed over to 12volt with side mount battery...should work nicely. left track needs bit more adjustment but it sure did leave a mess of grease outa that release hole!!!!cup or cup and a half gotta clean that....

thanks
dtoots1

[Lavoy]

Only way to kind of tell condition on engine clutch is how much of the adjuster threads are left, but still not much of an indicator.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

well i first adjusted it the wrong way at a quarter inch or so....then had to go back the other way to get the 1 inch free play.....so must be a bit of thread left for adjustment..the question is which is better the 1 inch or 1.25 inch....or is it actually correct to engage at the last bit of pedal? When i had adjusted the wrong way the clutch pedal was tight to push and about 2 inches of free play.

thanks
dtoots1

[dtoots1]

my 440 manual shows tranny/diff to take 80w multipurpose...is 303 equivalent ...tsc has 80w90 but not 80w multipurpose..gonna change while in air..

Lavoy,,,,still need to know a bit about the free play...better at 1 inch or 1.25 to 1.50....is there a difference in pressure applied at the different free play???

thanks
dtoots1

[Lavoy]

I use 1 /2" when I do it, no difference in face pressure either way.
303 is a trans hydraulic and is different the 80W-90.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

ok thanks on free play.....and will use the 80w90 since i have some of both wanted to use correct.....

don't know if you ever noticed...but my book says can use 10w or replace with 5w20 for use where 10w required...(my hydraulics use 10w)

thanks
dtoots1

[dtoots1]

well good news is.....she steers and moves under weight.....aint got no dirt to push or trees to move yet so that part will wait a bit.....now back in to put skid plate back on....got track shoes on and track adjusted......and sure was a surprise when i put left track brake on....turns on a dime!!!! big diff between left and right tho....

still trouble adjusting reverser reverse clutch can't seem to get the little booger turned to tighten reverse clutch mite be future job!!!!

[dtoots1]

well that is nice.....while i had skid plate off....and bent.....i took the ole sledge hammer to her...smacked her good couple times....measure plate and measure under dozer....plate looks pretty straight tabs close to right angles etc....measures come out fine she should fit!!!..get plate maneuvered under machine...put short piece of pipe under plate...get short cable, pulley n hook attach to skid plate bolt slots and pulley to hydr tank mount...pull cable and lifts plate over front plate..place couple long bolts in front plate slots lift rear of plate onto hydraulic jack...close fit...jack slightly to see if o.k....tight so pry on plate ear just enough to clear, jack a bit and right side goes in...left side still just a bit out needs a bit of pry and that goes up and in.... that sure was easier than taking the dang thing out....i painted her up before sliding it under....pretty yellow..but not jd...least way i can see under tranny etc....

harbor freight winch is on...needs wired up yet...made it portable so can put on back of other equipment if needed...old hitch pin mount.

dtoots1

[hdokes]

dtools1...

I've been looking for a 'right' time to insert this particular comment and you have given me the perfect segway!

We affectionately refer to Harbor Freight as "The man store". But one has to be very aware of what it is they are buying, there intended use/duty cycle, it's construction, etc. A fair amount of their stuff isn't worth the time. I've purchased drill bits that have been simply crap. I've had them literally 'untwist' the twist right out of them. I've had them bend to a 90 degree angle without actually snapping the bit. So much for High Speed hardened bits. I will NEVER purchase another bit for use with metals again from there... they are only suitable for non-metallic use... i.e. woods and plastics.

Having said that.... My shop has a LOT of what the man store sells. I have their large gantry crane with their electric hoist which has been extremely useful and is an integral tool in the current steering clutch replacement I am doing on my 350b right now. I have various drill presses and their small lathe etc. All are doing the job I expect out of them.

The one item I am most impressed about and can vouch for hands over is their winches.... even over my Winch... (don't tell her that! ) Oh wait... that's Wench isn't it... Anyway... among others, I have two of their 12,000 lb winches attached to a 7,000 lb capacity trailer and to a 9 ton capacity trailer. I have used them to pull 10,000 and 12,000 lb items from the ground up to the trailer and they have performed mightily. Add the wireless remote control to them and they are as good as anything you will find out there at a very decent price. The 10,000 lb item I pulled from ground level up onto a 3' high flat bed 9ton trailer was a JLG S35 scissor lift with a broken rear axle. It's a 35' high lift with a 7' x 14' platform capable of a 2000lb lifting capacity. With no other assist, the winch single handily pulled that thing up on to the trailer. We used a piece of 1/4" wall 6" diameter steel tube placed under the frame of the broken axle to act as the 4th wheel and it couldn't have worked better.

I did initially what you talked about and that is I had one winch that I moved between trailers but I liked it so much and the price (particularly on sale) is so reasonable I bought a second one so I could permanently affix them to each of the 2 trailers I use most. I picked up a very heavy duty industrial spot welder at an auction the other day.... this thing weighs like 1000lbs. and there was no budging it by hand. Backed the trailer up to it and pulled it right up on the trailer like it was nothing with the winch.

It's a great choice for anyone considering it.

[dtoots1]

hi hdokes,

yes they do and are....here is something not everyone knows about winches......snatch blocks (pulleys) actually multiply the pulling power of any winch..there is a limit to how many you can add...too many lower the power!...we used 2 snatches to pull a 5ft diameter cherry tree tree down..not my dozer a 4 cyl job...cant member what kind...(8 inch diameter snatch) tho any size better than none...

anyhow i just got a 9000lb cause that what my dozer wt is....also can only pull that weight with the first 2 turns on the winch, then quickly goes down to about 4000lb cap...point is i did not need extra cost of bigger winch nor try to pick up the dang at me only 140lb.

and yes i watch what tools to get too...wanted compressor and looked at one and note i find one in store just returned as it didn't work....needless to say
turned around and left..

thanks
dtoots1

[hdokes]

I'd like to find a good 8" or greater diameter snatch block!