John Deere 420 C

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Lavoy
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Lavoy » Wed Sep 06, 2017 5:02 pm

If you disconnect both brake rods, and take the brake pedal off, you can slowly work the cross shaft to the left. As you do, you can emery cloth the shaft and clean it up. It is a pain in the rear, but better than splitting the crawler.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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Stan Disbrow
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Stan Disbrow » Thu Sep 07, 2017 8:00 am

Hi,

When I said 'take it apart', I meant what Lavoy just said: the pedal parts. I hope no one thought I meant split the machine. That *would* be a major PIA. Makes messing with the pedal parts just a *minor* PIA! ;)

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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bookman51
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by bookman51 » Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:13 pm

I got it loose enough to get the crawler going again. I took it out and ran it for 30 minutes or so working the handles. I am pretty sure now that it is a matter of the clutch and brake sticking together and the brake does not letting the clutch engage. It is interesting, I can engage the clutch, put it in gear, and then nothing....until I start working the handles. Then the clutch seems to engage.

I did change the points this past fall, and I am pleased that the crawler is starting right off, but it found another way to frustrate me.

I will keep putting penetrating oil on the shaft. I cannot say the shaft is getting any looser. I just put a block of wood in behind the clutch and force the brake pedal down. Then upon releasing the brake the clutch pedal goes back far enough to engage. If get ambitious, I will do what Lavoy suggested regarding the emory cloth. At this point I probably have worked the clutch and brake pedal back an forth a couple hundred times and they do not seem any looser. I still have to do it with my foot I cannot hold one with my hand and force the other forward.

Work on the crawler is not exactly the handiest thing to do. Thanks for all the good advice and help.

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Lavoy
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Lavoy » Fri Sep 08, 2017 5:49 pm

If it has not loosened up by now, it isn't going to without cleaning up the shaft.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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bookman51
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by bookman51 » Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:16 am

Lavoy, I was afraid you might write that!!! :lol:

Steven Walters
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Steven Walters » Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:58 am

My brake and clutch pedal are rusted together as well, I need to split crawler for sure. What is most efficient way to split? In parts book it looks like there is a spring on shaft on the inside, You would think it's broken worn out by now. Do I have to remove shaft completely from machine to clean up and change spring? Looks like I can remove trans and final drive reiltivly quick. Just wast wondering what I was in for.

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Lavoy
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Lavoy » Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:30 am

Shaft will not come out with center section still in the crawler. Never had a spring wear or break in that location. I would try and fix it without splitting it first.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

Steven Walters
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Steven Walters » Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:41 pm

I have bin trying trust me. Where does shaft from trans to engine come apart? I was going to pull trans and finals off, then take the front half and pick up off cross members.

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Paul Buhler
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Paul Buhler » Wed Sep 13, 2017 5:30 pm

My clutch/brake sleeve weren't a problem for me, but based on others expressed problems, a few years ago I hooked up my power washer and gave my brake/clutch shaft a good cleaning. As Lavoy has said in the past, water is a universal lubricant and gets into rusted parts best. I followed up with lithium grease from a can. Anyway, My clutch and brake work independently as designed and I regularly squirt oil into the available ends hoping to avoid a problem. Good luck with your machine, and best regards. Paul
Paul Buhler
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Stan Disbrow
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Stan Disbrow » Thu Sep 14, 2017 6:04 am

Hi,

We (meaning first my dad and then myself) have been spraying that half n half penetrating oil and lithium grease into each end since 1966. Still no problems. :)

Then, too, the machine has been under a shed roof almost all of those days. That really helps. But there are still those days, mostly in the winter, when the air warms up and all that cold iron becomes wet as a sponge. I think that yearly spraying of what otherwise is a pretty lousy product does work.

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

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Paul Buhler
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Re: John Deere 420 C

Post by Paul Buhler » Thu Sep 14, 2017 5:09 pm

My clutch/brake sleeve weren't a problem for me, but based on others expressed problems, a few years ago I hooked up my power washer and gave my brake/clutch shaft a good cleaning. As Lavoy has said in the past, water is a universal lubricant and gets into rusted parts best. I followed up with lithium grease from a can. Anyway, My clutch and brake work independently as designed and I regularly squirt oil into the available ends hoping to avoid a problem. Good luck with your machine, and best regards. Paul
I also like to spray some diesel oil into the ends from time to time figuring that it may help some of the rust sludge break down and wash away. Cheap, and a spray bottle fits into the available spaces.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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