When I brought my 440 home the first thing I did was remove a homeade ROPS/ canopy that was more dangerous than what it was supposed to protect. Does anyone have a frame or cast mounted rops for their 440 that works well? I am looking for ideas on what to create. I'd rather it not touch the fenders at all as I see this as a major weak point. The one I had already was pushing down on the fenders bending them a great deal.
Thanks,
-Tim
440 ROPS Pictures or diagrams?
440 ROPS Pictures or diagrams?
1958 440ic with blade
Tim
I just put a 350 factory ROPS on my 420. I found a unit that had all the legs bent from an apparent flop. I massaged and blacksmithed the legs back into proper alignment, and then built brackets so as to join it up with the 420.
I extended the front legs (on the insides of the originals) to the front cross bar. For the rear, I built brackets that attach to the four rear implement mounting holes on the finals; both top and bottom holes. After I got those extensions at the right level, I added a steel platform across them. It's a couple pieces of 1/4 plate laminated together. I then bolted the rear legs to the platform. I have about 6 inches clearance behind the seat, and plenty of stand up/entrance room.
It looks good, and should be solid. If I remember correctly, one of the other ROPS on the lot had a sticker that indicated it was good for a 8 ton plus unit.
I may have weakened the legs a bit with all the heating and bending, but the little 420 is less than 1/2 the weight for which the canopy was designed.
I plan to add limb risers from the front of the ROPS to my grill guard.
Something to consider.
Gary
I just put a 350 factory ROPS on my 420. I found a unit that had all the legs bent from an apparent flop. I massaged and blacksmithed the legs back into proper alignment, and then built brackets so as to join it up with the 420.
I extended the front legs (on the insides of the originals) to the front cross bar. For the rear, I built brackets that attach to the four rear implement mounting holes on the finals; both top and bottom holes. After I got those extensions at the right level, I added a steel platform across them. It's a couple pieces of 1/4 plate laminated together. I then bolted the rear legs to the platform. I have about 6 inches clearance behind the seat, and plenty of stand up/entrance room.
It looks good, and should be solid. If I remember correctly, one of the other ROPS on the lot had a sticker that indicated it was good for a 8 ton plus unit.
I may have weakened the legs a bit with all the heating and bending, but the little 420 is less than 1/2 the weight for which the canopy was designed.
I plan to add limb risers from the front of the ROPS to my grill guard.
Something to consider.
Gary
Keep in mind the distinction between ROPS and FOPS. Fops is only good for falling objects, and was not designed to hold together in a rollover. I think a lot of the canopies you see out there on the older stuff are FOPS, not ROPS. That being said, in a mild or slow roll, I would still rather have the FOPS than nothing.
While we are on the subject, I have an aftermarket canopy for a 420 that is very well built with 2" square tubing. It bolts to the track clutch housings, two brackets that weld to the sideframes, and the grille gaurd. I am going to sell it if anyone is interested.
Lavoy
While we are on the subject, I have an aftermarket canopy for a 420 that is very well built with 2" square tubing. It bolts to the track clutch housings, two brackets that weld to the sideframes, and the grille gaurd. I am going to sell it if anyone is interested.
Lavoy
Along the same lines, some of the newer ROPS don't work as FOPS. The newer tractors all have a single Roll Over bar that will stop the unit from rolling but there is no overhead protection at all.
The one I found was commercially manufactured, but the tag was not readable. I have to go back to the lot, and copy one of the tags that is on one of the better units.
It's constructed of the stronger 2 inch round tubing with about 3/16 plate over the drivers seat. There is a heavy mesh above and behind the seat.
I built all of the brackets of either half inch, or I laminated two pieces of quarter inch. I'm using 3 or 4 bolts at each mounting point. It should work.
Gary
Lavoy,
What about my clutch free play? I have about 2 inches on the pedal, and ran out of adjustment room with the adjusting bolt. Need I tear it back in half, and fix something inside, or might I run it this way until clutch problems appear?
The one I found was commercially manufactured, but the tag was not readable. I have to go back to the lot, and copy one of the tags that is on one of the better units.
It's constructed of the stronger 2 inch round tubing with about 3/16 plate over the drivers seat. There is a heavy mesh above and behind the seat.
I built all of the brackets of either half inch, or I laminated two pieces of quarter inch. I'm using 3 or 4 bolts at each mounting point. It should work.
Gary
Lavoy,
What about my clutch free play? I have about 2 inches on the pedal, and ran out of adjustment room with the adjusting bolt. Need I tear it back in half, and fix something inside, or might I run it this way until clutch problems appear?
Gary and Lavoy,
A combination of your 2 methods is how I was thinking of going. I wanted to make some plates that would bolt to the rear of the steering clutch housings where the 4 bolt holes are and run square tube out and up. Wasn't sure where to mount the front component but the frame rail seems sturdy enough, possibly running it down the sides and bolting with some carraige bolts. I like the limb climber idea for the front but I am not too exicted about welding onto the front casting.
The previous owner had these mounted to the hood bolt holes and had egged them out for a larger bolt. I supposed I could do that again, but it makes hood removal difficult. Maybe I'll see how I do without them, or mount them on the side rails and come up vertical with some mounts before running back to the cage, if that makes any sense at all
A combination of your 2 methods is how I was thinking of going. I wanted to make some plates that would bolt to the rear of the steering clutch housings where the 4 bolt holes are and run square tube out and up. Wasn't sure where to mount the front component but the frame rail seems sturdy enough, possibly running it down the sides and bolting with some carraige bolts. I like the limb climber idea for the front but I am not too exicted about welding onto the front casting.
The previous owner had these mounted to the hood bolt holes and had egged them out for a larger bolt. I supposed I could do that again, but it makes hood removal difficult. Maybe I'll see how I do without them, or mount them on the side rails and come up vertical with some mounts before running back to the cage, if that makes any sense at all
1958 440ic with blade
Tim,
I am no expert, and certainly not in league with Lavoy, but I have messed with equipment a bit.
I always try to use steel that is equal to, or stronger than the original, and I try to do the same with bolts.
In this case, I used smaller bolts (half inch) because...hell, I don't know. Because they were there, I guess. Besides, as I said, I'm using an 8 ton unit on a 3 ton tractor.
The 440 is different from the 420, but I did come off the four available bolt holes on the finals. I just 4" x ?1/4?" angle for the bottem legs, and 2 inch by half for the upper legs which are welded to the lower legs. Across, and on top of, those, I used doubled 6" by 1/4 inch plate. The rear legs of the ROPS are bolted through those plates. The plate also has a 3 inch strip welded to the outer edge at about a 90 degree angle forming an angle iron with one 3 inch side, and one 6 inch side.
For the front, I dropped down to the front cross member with a piece of heavy walled 2 inch square tubing. That's mounted to the cross arm with brackets similar to those which mount the side frames to the cross arms, and each side is bolted with 4 bolts.
I will run the limb risers (2 inch pipe) from the existing riser mounting brackets on the canopy to the top of the front grill guard. They will be bolted at both ends, and not welded.
I spent maybe 3 or 4 days staightening the bent legs, and building the brackets. I expect another day or two on the risers.
Once again, I will try to post pics. I only have a cell phone digital, but I may do some 35 mms, and use those from a disc.
So far, it looks good.
Gary
I am no expert, and certainly not in league with Lavoy, but I have messed with equipment a bit.
I always try to use steel that is equal to, or stronger than the original, and I try to do the same with bolts.
In this case, I used smaller bolts (half inch) because...hell, I don't know. Because they were there, I guess. Besides, as I said, I'm using an 8 ton unit on a 3 ton tractor.
The 440 is different from the 420, but I did come off the four available bolt holes on the finals. I just 4" x ?1/4?" angle for the bottem legs, and 2 inch by half for the upper legs which are welded to the lower legs. Across, and on top of, those, I used doubled 6" by 1/4 inch plate. The rear legs of the ROPS are bolted through those plates. The plate also has a 3 inch strip welded to the outer edge at about a 90 degree angle forming an angle iron with one 3 inch side, and one 6 inch side.
For the front, I dropped down to the front cross member with a piece of heavy walled 2 inch square tubing. That's mounted to the cross arm with brackets similar to those which mount the side frames to the cross arms, and each side is bolted with 4 bolts.
I will run the limb risers (2 inch pipe) from the existing riser mounting brackets on the canopy to the top of the front grill guard. They will be bolted at both ends, and not welded.
I spent maybe 3 or 4 days staightening the bent legs, and building the brackets. I expect another day or two on the risers.
Once again, I will try to post pics. I only have a cell phone digital, but I may do some 35 mms, and use those from a disc.
So far, it looks good.
Gary
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