1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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newwood
40C crawler
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1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by newwood » Sat Jun 29, 2019 4:17 pm

In order to steer I have to haul back hard on steering levers (R and L require equal effort). I assume this could be frozen steering clutches or could be that both are out of adjustment (the last step of the adjustment instructions notes that if the brake band adjusting screw is in too far, the brake will be applied before clutch is released). Is there a way to tell the difference other than going through all the steps of steering clutch adjustment (if I do that and it still has the same problem, then they are both frozen?). It's still steerable because hauling back hard stops the track, but it's a bit of a workout driving that puppy.
Thanks
jt
Newwood
1010C diesel
Chapel Hill NC and Merrill WI

dtoots1
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by dtoots1 » Sat Jun 29, 2019 6:39 pm

need to clarify...is this machine new to you...has it been sitting...outside??? and have you attempted to adjust? you appear to have a manual, each adjustment must be followed exactly in order to adjust properly

Jim B
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by Jim B » Sat Jun 29, 2019 7:07 pm

Besides answering dtoots1 questions. You say it turns if you pull back yard on the levers. Does it lug the engine way down or stall it when you pull the levers? It fact that it steers would indicate the clutches aren't frozen; dragging maybe.

Doing the full adjustment of the steering clutches and brakes, exactly by the manual, will cost you only time and rule an adjustment problem out. Tearing it apart to look, it if doesn't need to be torn down, will cost you time and money.

newwood
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by newwood » Sun Jun 30, 2019 8:13 am

Thanks for the replies.
Well, we've had it since 1981 and it's been running well all that time, spending its time in a well covered but open-sided shed, so out of the weather. Gets started up a few times a year but only run around once a year or so when I'm back in Wisco. I've been responsible for care and feeding the last 10 yrs or so, and the steering has always been like this--which doesn't seem quite up to spec.

If you're running on a straight and pull back on one of the steering levers there is no slow turn--nothing happens until you pull all the way back which stops the track on that side. So short radius turns are no problem, and doing so puts only slight strain on the engine: no concern about stalling. So it runs perfectly straight and can turn on a dime; it's perfectly steerable on straight by just making little nudges to stop track on one side or the other, but there is no intermediate.

No, I haven't attempted to adjust, and I have both the shop and owners manual which describe all the steps in series. Just wanted to get some feedback on likely possible causes. Rebuilding clutches is well beyond my abilities, but adjustment is probably in my wheelhouse (although I've read the posts where people seem to have problems understanding the step-by-step instructions, and I'll be well out of internet or even cell phone range when I'm working on it. I just don't want to mess up something that is perfectly useable in search of perfect.

Otherwise a sweet machine: diesel always fires right up, 6 way blade, hydraulic reverser. But it always presents a few mysteries to keep my life interesting.
jt
Newwood
1010C diesel
Chapel Hill NC and Merrill WI

dtoots1
2010 crawler
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by dtoots1 » Sun Jun 30, 2019 10:29 am

first of take the book with you....read all the adjustment procedures a couple times, until you understand just exactly how to...they are simple but a bit confusing until you actually perform the steps. Yes it does sound to me like an adjustment problem, once you do get them adjusted she will probably do as you want. if you have general knowledge of cars/trucks and have worked on them you should be able to do work on machine, only difference is parts are bigger, heavier and you need some form of lifting device whether overhead crane, come along or even front loader or engine hoist to maneuver. a helper is handy as well.

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Paul Buhler
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by Paul Buhler » Sun Jun 30, 2019 9:43 pm

Hi: A few years ago I rebuilt my 420's final drives with the help of this board. I've included a link to that project; it includes pictures and discussions that you may find helpful. Best regards. Paul
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10160]
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

newwood
40C crawler
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Joined: Wed Nov 11, 2015 11:14 am
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by newwood » Tue Jul 09, 2019 12:49 pm

I've looked through some of the past posts on steering clutches, and I'm still looking for clarity on tests of "normal" function: If you pull back on both steering levers at the same time should the crawler stop moving forward but the engine continue to run? That is, both steering clutches will be disengaged so no power will go to either track, and the engine won't stall (both steering brakes may get applied, but that shouldn't matter to the engine if the clutches are free).

If clutches are frozen, or not getting disengaged, then engine would stall.

So do properly adjusted steering clutches behave like that?
(Paul B: I looked through your epic rebuild post. Wow.)

jt
Newwood
1010C diesel
Chapel Hill NC and Merrill WI

dtoots1
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by dtoots1 » Tue Jul 09, 2019 4:56 pm

You really do need to do the adjustment procedure. That will give you the answer. what the steering lever actually does is first it disengages the clutch by applying pressure to the fingers to release the clutch and just a fraction later the brake is applied to stop that track. and the other track is allowed to continue to turn the machine. It really is telling you to adjust both steering assemblies, it does not take long and will need adjustment again.

Jim B
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by Jim B » Tue Jul 09, 2019 6:55 pm

You asked, "If you pull back on both steering levers at the same time should the crawler stop moving forward but the engine continue to run?"

Yes, if you pull back on both steering levers the crawler should stop and the engine should run freely, no lugging down. If it does that your clutches are not frozen. Remove the covers and look in the steering clutch compartments to see if the brakes have oil on them, or if they are rusty.

newwood
40C crawler
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Joined: Wed Nov 11, 2015 11:14 am
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by newwood » Wed Jul 10, 2019 2:15 pm

JimB and dtoots:
Thanks for the replies. I always try to make sure of the diagnosis (and what success is supposed to look like) before I cut the patient open and start messing around. It's the old "first, do no harm". So JimB, thanks for the confirmation of normal function: that allows me to know if 1) it needs fixing and 2) whether I've fixed it. (and to avoid #3: "oh oh, now it's worse"). Thanks again guys.
Newwood
1010C diesel
Chapel Hill NC and Merrill WI

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Paul Buhler
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Re: 1010 steering clutch frozen vs adjustment

Post by Paul Buhler » Fri Jul 12, 2019 6:45 pm

Jim and dtoots have given you good info. Like the manual says, a speed wrench is handy for adjusting the throw out bearing. I taped my socket to the wrench so it didn't separate and end up part of the final drive mechanism. If your adjustment efforts aren't satisfactory, It really isn't that hard to open up a final drive and look inside. It only weighs a few hundred pounds, and a wooden tripod and a come-along will handle the weight in a pinch. Good luck. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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