I have an older 1010c that has a replacment engine from a 2010 row tractor. I plan to rebuild this machine and use it for relativley light dozer work around my aspiring hobby farm.Recently i contacted Lavoy for pricing on steering clutch rebuilding parts. Long story short, I got a call from the guy i hired to sandblast the final drive and steering clutch housing to tell me that the final drive was craked. Turned out the crack was actually not the final drive but the clutch housing. He seems to have done a really good job welding the cracks.
In the days following the call, I started removing the engine to quell my nervous energy untill i could get to his shop and see the repair. Here lies my question.
what would you do for a good quality engine rebuild?
I plan to get new bearings and replace any damaged parts- hopefully few. My knowlage of motor rebuilding is marginal at best.
Should i get the cam and crank shafts reground or only if there is pitting or damage? how much of a regrind?
what about the valves and seats
should i replace the pistions and the sleave deck with new or should i do so only if required. I know i will have to sink a few dollers into the engine but there is a limit. I know the sleave deck is very expensive. Is there any gained advantage to replacing one and not the other or is it a matched replacement?
I'm going to have to trust a local machine/engine shop for the grinding. I quess using the specs in the deere manual as a guide for the machine shop to follow. Does anyone have pointers to help me out?
I want to bring this machine to as close to new condition as i can afford and am looking for direction so i do it right but not foolishly. I am willing to go all the way up to my wife threatning me with divorce if i spend another dime on the rust pile.
David in Poplarville, Ms
2010 engine rebuild
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dnormand25
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:21 am
- Location: poplarville mississippi
Lots of luck David, if you are going to go through the motor do it all the way. If you repair part of it and some other part has wear you will find that the additional power from the rebuild will cause sometthing else to fail if you miss it. If you can while you have it torn down get it all... You will be glad in the long run for sure.
Bill
PS definitely use the deere specks to insure pistons rings and beraings will fit properly. Lavoy can be a help there.
Bill
PS definitely use the deere specks to insure pistons rings and beraings will fit properly. Lavoy can be a help there.
Bill 420c dozer 5 roller
N. E. Alabama
older is better just keep it greased
N. E. Alabama
older is better just keep it greased
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hunter41mag
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 126
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:11 am
- Location: Eastern Pennsylvania (NE of Allentown)
David,
I rebuilt quite a few truck diesel engines but never a John Deere diesel. But all diesel engines have alot in common. A big thing to do after thoughly cleaning the outside of the engine and mounting to a stand is mark/tag everything as it comes apart and thoughly inspect each piece at the same time. Look for different length bolts, bearing wear, std. or oversized bearings. Also make sure everything goes back to original position (lifters, push tubes, main caps, pistons, rod and mating caps, etc). Once head is off check liner protrucion and make sure it is within spec (big item to seal combustion at headgasket) and also recheck on re-assembly. If you do not have any bearing scoring or abnormal wear than crank and rods should be ok. Just make sure to keep clean and if it is going to be apart for a while stand crank on end or support at ends and center with equal height wood blocks on the bearing journals. After everything is apart clean all parts and inspect again, have block sent out and hot tanked and new freeze plugs and cam bushings installed. If pistons do not show any ring land wear or errosion they can be reused but replace the liners with new (if you try and hone them you never get all the honing grit out and you end up with having to replace them a short time later). Plus the cost of liners is cheaper than the time to try and hone and clean them. I would have the cylinder head gone over by a machine shop that does alot of that type of work and they can also check for warpage and advise. Unless you see a problem with cam lobe or lifter wear than they should also be ok to go (just make sure the lobe's are above minimum lift specs). I would replace/service the following parts at any out of chassis rebuild.
1. All gaskets and seals
2. All bearings (crank, rod and cam (bushings))
3. Liner's and piston rings (some companies offer new/rebuilt cylinder packs (liner, piston, rings, rod allready assembled and ready to drop in)
4. Connecting rod bolts (cheap insurance against an old one breaking)
5. Have injection pump and injectors service by a pump shop
6. Have radiator serviced by radiator shop (also replace thermostat)
7. New filters, oil and coolant
Make sure you also have OEM engine manual on hand for any "OEM idio-secreties" (left handed threads, gear timing, torque specs, critical measurements, etc).
A little long on the typing but this still does not cover everything. Alot more info will be in the engine manual.
Don
Eastern PA
440IC
I rebuilt quite a few truck diesel engines but never a John Deere diesel. But all diesel engines have alot in common. A big thing to do after thoughly cleaning the outside of the engine and mounting to a stand is mark/tag everything as it comes apart and thoughly inspect each piece at the same time. Look for different length bolts, bearing wear, std. or oversized bearings. Also make sure everything goes back to original position (lifters, push tubes, main caps, pistons, rod and mating caps, etc). Once head is off check liner protrucion and make sure it is within spec (big item to seal combustion at headgasket) and also recheck on re-assembly. If you do not have any bearing scoring or abnormal wear than crank and rods should be ok. Just make sure to keep clean and if it is going to be apart for a while stand crank on end or support at ends and center with equal height wood blocks on the bearing journals. After everything is apart clean all parts and inspect again, have block sent out and hot tanked and new freeze plugs and cam bushings installed. If pistons do not show any ring land wear or errosion they can be reused but replace the liners with new (if you try and hone them you never get all the honing grit out and you end up with having to replace them a short time later). Plus the cost of liners is cheaper than the time to try and hone and clean them. I would have the cylinder head gone over by a machine shop that does alot of that type of work and they can also check for warpage and advise. Unless you see a problem with cam lobe or lifter wear than they should also be ok to go (just make sure the lobe's are above minimum lift specs). I would replace/service the following parts at any out of chassis rebuild.
1. All gaskets and seals
2. All bearings (crank, rod and cam (bushings))
3. Liner's and piston rings (some companies offer new/rebuilt cylinder packs (liner, piston, rings, rod allready assembled and ready to drop in)
4. Connecting rod bolts (cheap insurance against an old one breaking)
5. Have injection pump and injectors service by a pump shop
6. Have radiator serviced by radiator shop (also replace thermostat)
7. New filters, oil and coolant
Make sure you also have OEM engine manual on hand for any "OEM idio-secreties" (left handed threads, gear timing, torque specs, critical measurements, etc).
A little long on the typing but this still does not cover everything. Alot more info will be in the engine manual.
Don
Eastern PA
440IC
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dnormand25
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:21 am
- Location: poplarville mississippi
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