Water in Oli

[fundytides]

Oil in my 40c is milky so probably has water in it. Recent oil change, so not condensation. Anything I can do, preliminary to pulling the head, to help determine cause? A little history-crawler was purchased several years ago with seized and rusted engine. Pistons were driven out, cylinders cut and sleeves installed and motor completely rebuilt. About 5 years ago head cracked and I had it repaired at a local engine rebuilders/machine shop. I know that these heads commonly crack so I am kind of suspecting that again. Any suggestions appreciated.

[Lavoy]

Did you use any sort of copper spray when installing the head? I fought a 40 that had a complete rebuild, planed block and head, and could not get it to seal up. Last time I installed the head upon the advice of my machine shop, I used Hylomar on both sides of the gasket, the head, and the block. Never took the head off again. Since then I have switched to Copper Spray a Gasket, or CopperKote on ever engine I do, and have not had a problem since.
Deere's process was to submerge the gasket in engine oil for a short time and then install. Never could bring myself to try that.
Lavoy

[gaspumpsam]

To many places for water to come from to test or say for certain where it’s coming from, other than to remove spark plugs(after it has sat for a time and not warm) and see if one or both show moisture. Then fill rad to very top( so it will run over if more is added) then remove spark plugs and spin engine as fast as possible and see if moisture comes out of either or both holes, if nothing shows, put one plug back in and spin engine and watch close for bubbles in rad, if nothing, swap plug holes and see for bubbles, if you see bubbles the leak will be near the cyl with the plug in it. Rad has to be full to top as engine is rolled over, otherwise you can’t see bubbles.

One thing I noticed on engine from my 440ic gas( I have it stripped completely down) I was tapping head bolt holes ( I clean and tap all holes in engine on rebuild) and noticed(after I got crud from bottom of hole,) that 2 of the holes were not the same depth as the others, by a noticeable amount. I am going to put new grade 8 (black) bolts and washers, and measure to make sure bolts are not bottoming out, when torqued. One can add 10 lbs ft torque above specs, without problems, as long as holes are 100%.
This helps seal head gasket.

Lavoy, I wonder why the head gasket would leak, with head and block machined flat, then the copper kote spray stopped the leak- the head gasket itself leaking ??
Just my thoughts.

[Lavoy]

Yes, the steel faced head gasket is not sealing on the block and head surface. My machine shops thought is it is not able to shift when the headbolts are torqued. The Hylomar, or copper spray allows this, much like Deere's process of dipping in engine oil.
I pulled the same head 3 times in one day to no avail. Reinstalled the last time with Hylomar, and no further problems. Best analogy I could come up with is using dead soft copper on high compression engines, you need some sort of dressing on them as well.
Lavoy

[Lavoy]

With factory head bolts, it is not possible to bottom them out.
I would agree on chasing threads in block, cleaning threads on head bolts, and using lube on threads and under bolt head and washer (I use Lucas oil stabilizer) to achieve uniform torque.
I guess all I can say is doing this with some sort of product on the head, block and gasket, 30 or more engines later, never had a head gasket failure.
Lavoy

[fundytides]

Thanks guys. I'll chase this down further when I get my track reinstalled. Thanks to Lavoy for the quick service and reasonable prices on idler bushings and seals, Diers used parts for the track and my local machinist for his great work on the front idler brackets and axle. The set screw had broken off and allowed the axle to turn in the brackets wallowing out the holes and scoring the axle. Probably had been this way for many years. They now look like new and everything fits properly.
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[Ray III]

I suspect that my hydraulic pump leaks into the crankcase, and the hydraulic oil always has water in it. Just a thought.

[fundytides]

Thanks Ray. Good suggestion. I know that I have water in my hydraulic system as I left the crawler outside when the track came off it and the hydraulic system wouldn't work after a cold night. Ice in the valve probably. I had this problem before and as soon as it gets warm hydraulics work again. A few years ago the hydraulic pump froze and cracked so I had to replace it. Was going to change hydraulic fluid again but track repairs got in the way. That's done now, so hydraulic fluid and water in oil is next on the list.

[B Town]

Might research Seafoam hydraulic oil additive. Lots of positives on this forum.

[Ray III]

Deere wanted the hydraulic tank drained and refilled twice a year. I never did it because the plug was so hard to reach, and every winter got to fight with a frozen system. Finally I replaced the plug with a street elbow and ball valve with handle cut off. Milkshake now drains easily using a socket and long extension.