Final assembly weight

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ggfossen
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Final assembly weight

Post by ggfossen » Fri May 20, 2005 8:33 pm

If I have to remove one of the final assemblies on my 420c to get at the brakes and clutch discs, with how much weight will I be dealing?

Gary

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fryguy
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Post by fryguy » Fri May 20, 2005 8:47 pm

Gary,
I have just pulled one side. Unless you are Superman, it is more than you will want to lift. It also comes out in a clumsey manner as the rails on my crawler were close tolerance to getting the final out. I would guess the weight at least 100-150 pounds all together. In order to avoid hospital bills, manual suggests making a "hanger", a piece of 1/2 inch rod in the shape of a "V" with a 90 degree bend at the top of each side. Flip the hanger as an upside down V, you then pick up the final drive with an engine hoist. One problem though, 1/2 inch cold rolled is too much diameter and I had to visit the grinder to get the top of the "V" hanger to slip into the bolt holes on the final drive assembly. This may be an error in the manual, who knows.

Fryguy

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fryguy
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Post by fryguy » Fri May 20, 2005 8:54 pm

Gary,
One other thing, don't forget to back the brake band adjuster off inside the clutch housing before you attempt to pull the final drive. When it is loose, it should just slip off pretty easily.
fryguy

ggfossen
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Post by ggfossen » Fri May 20, 2005 9:46 pm

fryguy,

OK, that's more or less what I needed to know. I have the service manual that explains the the little v hook, but it doesn't say how much they weigh. My problem is, it's in an outside shed roof thing, and the ground isn't completely level. I'll have to rig some sort of over head thing, but that's just a matter of setting there, for awhile, scratching and thinking. I may not have to do it. Right now, I've got one track assembly spread all over the shop. Lots of little welding and grinding jobs, and, now, it's all starting to turn yellow. Sooner or later, I'll have to try to adjust the clutches and brakes. I think I have something froze up inside, tho, and, if I can't break it loose, I'll have to tear into it.

Thanks,

Gary

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Post by 440 CRAWLER » Sat May 21, 2005 6:51 pm

Gary,

I removed the final on my 440 without a hoist , you just need a second person to help you rotate it up and out , its over 200 lbs

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sat May 21, 2005 9:08 pm

Gary,
I still will do a 420 by hand on occasion. If you are going to do it, get two long tapered punches. When you have the final slid out some, put one in the top hole on the final closest to you, and the other one in a bottom hole with the long part of the punch towards the inside. This will help you rotate the final for clearance if you have a 5 roller, and helps to balance it as you lift. You are looking at about 150lbs give or take.
Lavoy

ggfossen
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Post by ggfossen » Sat May 21, 2005 9:24 pm

Lavoy,

150 pounds on two punches? You're a better man than I am, that's for damn sure. Besides, I already have scars up my back. I don't want anymore. If I have to take them off, I will rig some sort of a hoist over the top. It occurs to me that it could actually be anchored to the tractor, itself.

I have removed the track assemblies, so they won't get in my way.

As a matter of record, the right side is all back together, and very yellow. I'm still fighting one of the big spring tensioners, though. The nuts are froze on tighter than bark on a tree...well, really tight. I was able to free the first one with heat. It isn't working on the second one. Ah, but I will persevere.

Surprisingly, all the rollers seem to be in good shape. I also see that there has been a lot of wear on one of the idlers from apparent shot bearings. The bearings are now tight. It's had a bunch of work done on it.

The only problem is, whomever did it put it back together with a welder instead of bolts.

Gary

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun May 22, 2005 9:10 pm

That is why I said occasionally, and that is also why I have a little Toyota forklift in the shop, tired of doing this stuff the hard way.
Try spllitting the nut with a cold chisel, then you can get the rod out and chase the threads. Be sure to anti-seize when you put it back together.
Lavoy

ggfossen
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Post by ggfossen » Sun May 22, 2005 9:41 pm

Lavoy,

I finally managed to get the nut loose this AM with a judicious application of heat and cold. Maybe not so judicious...just a lot of both. Both spring assemblies seem to be cleaning up well, and all seems to be salvagable.

I did decide that I only need 10 inch pads. One track is now with 10 inch pads. A lot of O/A gas, but no other problems.

With the bolts holding on the blade assembly (into the ends of the cross bars), I put a hi lift jack under the wrench, and picked up half the tractor. Then I tapped the bolt with a hammer, and the tractor went down, and the bolt came loose. Probably as much sitting and scratching and thinking, as working. An interesting project, but it did manage to put my retaining wall project on hold.

I will rig up some sort of a lift for the finals. I expect I could really mess up some bearings/seals/whatever, if I dropped it half way off. I think I need to pull the finals, at least one, just to look in there and see what goes around.

I have a large can of Caterpillar anti-seize compound, compliments of the guy who attached all the rollers with a welder. I'm still puzzled as to why he had a can of compound if he was going to use a welder instead of nuts and bolts.

Thanks,

Gary

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon May 23, 2005 9:00 am

Maybe he got a large can of Anti-Seize welding rods for Christmas???????????????????????????????????????????????????
Lavoy

ggfossen
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Post by ggfossen » Mon May 23, 2005 7:20 pm

Ah, but, if only they had been "anti-seize" rods...

Whomever did it was a pretty damn good welder. The only saving grace was that they didn't clean off all the old rust as well as they should have.

But life marches on...and I still have the left side to do.

Gary

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