2010 cracked block

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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dnormand25
420 crawler
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Location: poplarville mississippi

2010 cracked block

Post by dnormand25 » Sun Dec 10, 2006 8:12 pm

I started stripping he 2010 gas motor on my 1010c (its a replacement). I have heard that the web between cylinder bores where the deck plate mounts is susceptable to crackings, well mine has them! :(. Looking at this logicly i can't see where this will ultimatly effect the engine. the actual bore is in the deck plate and the web thickness seems very thin for a crucial location. as long as the sleave bores are sound, there doesn't seem to be any way for coolant to enter . also, the seperation of oil to coolant occurs much lower in the bock. I saw no evidence of oil/ coolant or coolant/ oil contamination when draining fluids. Am i crazy to continue going forward on this project? I want a rebuild that will be machaniclaly sound and allow me to use this crawler tractor/dozer for light work around my place. Is this a necessary to repair? look for a replacement block? I have read that 99% of these motors crack in this location, so a replacement may not be easy. What do you guys think?

David in Poplarville Ms

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:13 pm

I believe that as long as the cracks are not far enough down to be through the area where the o-rings are, it will not be a problem.
Lavoy

dnormand25
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 30
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:21 am
Location: poplarville mississippi

2010 cracked block repair

Post by dnormand25 » Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:21 am

Lavoy, Do you or have you repaired these cracks? whats the propper method? I t seems awfully thin to try and weld or braze

David

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:54 am

I think that you probably don't have to do anything. I wonder if you might cause more harm by creating stress when welding them.
If the end of the crack is quite visible, you might consider stop drilling the crack if possible.
Lavoy

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