6 wy blade rebuild

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Hurlbutt
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6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Wed Mar 25, 2020 5:59 pm

After following instructions from Lavoy for chaining the blade up, I backed the trailer up to the concrete pad and used a come-a-long to pull on the trailer's side rail and the track chain. That got it halfway off. The S10 was used as an anchor point for the remainder of unloading task.

I haven't received the manuals yet so I'm not getting into anything requiring real knowledge but started looking things over. The left side of the blade was not engaged in the ??? what ever it is (tell me the correct term) for the tilt motion of the blade. The right hand side has a pivot pin hole and two crescents that engage with the frame that pivots for blade angling. I raised the blade up with an engine hoist and tried to re-engage the lips. Couldn't be done. It just bound up. So I pulled it apart.

Now I'm learning some of the things to look for when purchasing vintage equipment. There is actually someone who welds at least as badly as I do! And, they know how to use a BIG hammer in placed I'd never considered doing, like on cylinder rods, I gives them a very unique appearance with the flat spots instead of the smooth round surface. That was on the right ram for blade angle. The rod end was seized on the pin, I guess they didn't know what the zert fitting was for. They affixed bolts to tops of the pins for the rod ends too. Gives them a special look.

I found a bit of wear that I think I'll be purchasing some plate material for. I got some pictures but haven't learned how to post them yet. I'll get some up and will be looking for some guidance in the process.
Bill

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:48 pm

I got two pictures up loaded which took a while even with the camera at a low resolution. My internet is through my phone. That doesn't quite match the cable speed I had in Washington. There's not much available to me where I am now.
Lets see if it works.

[http://jdcrawlers.lcent.com:8000/johnde ... fullsize=1]
[http://jdcrawlers.lcent.com:8000/johnde ... fullsize=1]
Bill

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:50 pm

Close but no cigar. At least the links work. I have more learning to do.
Bill

dtoots1
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by dtoots1 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 7:39 pm

can you explain how you are loading pics to the server from your cell phone i assume or are you actually using land phone line?

need clarification as no one been able to use cells to upload.

when logged in to the jdcrawler site, last forum at the bottom of the board index...Q&A forum has the exact instructions to upload from computer

please advise..

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:28 pm

I am using an old Acer Chrome book with the Chrome removed and a Linux variety (GlaliumOS) installed to make it a useful computer (I don't like having to be online in order to use any programs such as spread sheets and word processing). My phone (an old Apple 5s on AT&T) is used as a hot spot (sometimes known as tethering) for internet access for the computer so I'm using the Phone data with the computer. I didn't use the phone to take the pictures. So I can be no help in solving the problem of uploading pictures directly from a phone.
Bill

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Fri Mar 27, 2020 2:03 am

I went onto the JD web page for parts and got a few part numbers for the parts I'll be working with. I didn't expect to find the sector, tilt, angle frame and sector, tilt, blade (official names for the two of the crescent shapes shapes I couldn't name well) to be in stock but hoped for finding a price on the item 19, P/N: U 10438 U, described as: end, pivot which is the missing rod end for the tilt ram. I cant get results for u 10438 u, or u10428u, or 10428.

I'm hoping I can't get a price because I don't know how to get it properly but am concerned that JD doesn't know about the part anymore, as in the 1010C is a total orphan. No more parts from mama available. I've run into that in aircraft with even when the company is still making other product. If that's the case, where will I be able to get a rod end for the tilt ram?
Bill

Jim B
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Jim B » Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:28 am

U10438 (most suffixes are dropped with the current JD numbering system) shows as No Longer Available. I don't think you meant U10428, but shows as a Tee fitting costing $70 to $85 depending on the dealer, but I did not find it shown for a 1010. A used cylinder or rod with the end on it, adapting something else for an end or or having one built may be the answer.

Have you set up a log in with a dealer? If not you may not see some of the info. And apparently JD will be making more changes to the info available on the site this year.

Jim

dtoots1
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by dtoots1 » Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:41 am

Bill,
thanks for clearing that up, would certainly be nice and easy , with the advent of cells, to be easily accessible to manipulate our pic server,
though we sure don't want things made easier for spammers ad hackers screwing up the system, bad enough we have trouble on own computers (viruses and whatnot) plus the current pandemic as well.

welcome to the world of dozers

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:30 am

I erred with the P/N in the later section with the part search and I tried it with only the prefix "U" using both upper and lower case with the "10438" with it not found. There were several several options for parts without the prefix with none being what I need. Would this rod end have been an off the shelf component JD used or a unique design for this application?
Bill

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Lavoy
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Lavoy » Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:47 am

Almost all older Deere hyd stuff is Deere, not off the shelf. You will find very limited parts availability for any blade or loader from Deere on the older stuff.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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Hambrick28
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hambrick28 » Wed Mar 23, 2022 2:12 pm

Just wondering if you were able to get the 6 way blade back up and going as I'm going through the same thing with a 6 way blade just a bit further than you have gone.
1959 John Deere 440icd 6 way hydraulic blade,
1959 John Deere 440icd No blade

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Wed Mar 23, 2022 7:13 pm

The only progress has been relocating it a few feet (shuffling stuff on the concrete pad some months ago). There is a sequence of events that must occur first and the list keeps getting longer. Right now the doctors are limiting what I'm allowed to do. Around 6 months ago I got an infection of cryptococcus in my lungs so chainsaws, lawn mowers, or what ever would make dust is forbidden. I'm working on making a supplied purified air respirator to get around the restrictions that have been imposed. Besides, I don't enjoy hospital stays or spinal taps that much. The respirator should help avoid re-occurrence.
Bill

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JAJ
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by JAJ » Fri Mar 25, 2022 9:40 am

I’m in the middle of a 6-way rebuild right now.
Picked up the blade last fall at Lavoy’s shop.
I have been taking pictures as the project progresses and will attempt to post them on here in the near future.
So far I have welded up the worn areas using a mild steel rod 6011 which has deep penetration qualities but can still be machined. The blade was weighed on my platform scale 368# with everything removed but the cutting edge.
My Bridgeport mill has a max weight of 750# on the table so I was able to bore out the pivot hole to 1.75” diameter. This removed all of the original sloppy worn out hole. I removed the radial “L” gibs that surround this pivot hole. They will be machined down to fit the mating surfaces on the angling frame. I will weld them back on at final assembly to insure a good fit. The other bigger radial gib on the other end will have to be totally done by hand because even though the Bridgeport can handle the weight, I’m not man enough to turn the handles to move the table.
Boring a hole for the pivot was bad enough, back and forth machining wasn’t going to work for me.
I will be making a bushing to slide over the badly worn pivot pin on “angling frame”. This bushing will be welded to the old pin. Bushing will end up with .160” thick wall. I was able to get the angling frame on the Bridgeport (stripped down 159#) and was able to turn handles for machining. I machined down all the weld on the under surface of wear areas at the far end near tilt cylinder pocket except under the nose of guide that fits into the blade radial gib. I had a fly cutter that could fit under there but it was to dull to handle the task. I will hand grind that area. On the top of the wear surface I machined a pocket .25” deep. This pocket has a straight and square edge to the frame which will allow me to retain original location of the radius. The insert is 1/4” thick dplate. The nose of the insert was cut on a radius to match the original radius on the original nose minus 1/2”. I then took a 1/2” square piece of steel and bent it (black smith style) to fit the radius on the insert. This new nose piece will be hand fit to the large radial gib on the blade. Once the fitting of this insert to the blade gib is done I will mark the position of insert on the blade and transfer that to the angle frame and weld the insert into its pocket making sure it is parallel to that pocket edge. I will have drilled multiple holes through this insert which will allow me to weld down through the holes so that my insert will become a solid part of angling frame.
The four bushings that guide the angling feature of the blade were available at Deere $36.00 each. That big long pivot pin is no longer available so I will be turning one up on the lathe. Jury is still out on my adding grease zerts top and bottom or just top with a common hole to feed all four bushings??? Going to be a bastard pin for sure cause I’ll want to recess the zert(s).
Trying to come up with a pattern to make a leather boot for the tilt cylinder. I have an old treadle sewing machine that was made to sew leather cowboy boots that I’m anxious to use.
Some of the guys out there need to be taught how to install those pivot pins🤬. I swear (and swore) every one of the pins were beat in with a 12# sledgehammer. Had to grind the damn beat over hammered lip before there was any hope of removing the pin.
Row oh, phone battery is bitching, gotta go!!!

Hurlbutt
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Re: 6 wy blade rebuild

Post by Hurlbutt » Sat Mar 26, 2022 10:02 pm

I'm looking forward to see the photo documentation. I hear what your saying about working behind "Ace" mechanics. The right hand cylinder for angling the blade has hammer tracks for a couple inches from the rod end from previous expert craftsmanship. I think they were trying to drive the pin down through.

The pivot pin for blade angle is reasonable shape on mine but the bushing is an egg shell. I figured I'd have to make it but haven't research parts yet there, only for the tilt ram rod end and found that it's NLA. It appears to have been threaded on originally and then there was an attempt to weld it on by one who welds at least a poorly as me. I think the weld was attempted in place which would make it a bit more difficult.

I'm anxious to get going on the project again. I just have to get the Rhino put back together, run decent power out to the shop and get my good air compressor installed (been in storage for 5 years I think) so I can try the plasma cutter instead of the angle grinder on this sadly abused thing. I will be going through a few grinding wheels when removing the crescent sections for the tilt. I plan on replacing the worn flat surface on the left side of the lade instead of building it up and trying to flatten it out. That would be a career.
Bill

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