1010c overhaul

[stmftr395]

I have begun tear down of 1010c s/n 24841. Maintainence for the tracks by previous owner was at best poor,but undercarrage and tracks repair is pretty much self explainitory. Have performed some od build up welds on the rear cross bar to repair wear. A friend has a lathe with a 60" bed so I was able to turn the repaired areas for a nice fit in the track frame. Ed at crawler heaven re pinned and bushed the tracks, so those should be no trouble. The righthand steering clutch is froze up so I am removing the final drive assemblies(both) and will replace components as needed. My question is should I be concerned with changing the flanged axle shaft seal while the finals are off? The wear obseved on the mechanical parts (ie gears shafts ect) is minimal and the seals do not appear to have leaked. Also do I need to check and or replace ring gear/hub seals while the finals are removed. This is my first crawler project and any advise will be appreciated. The good news is that the crawler was never worked real hard( one farm tractor). Dozer blade shows little signs of wear. Was used for gathering sap and snow removal mainly.

[Lavoy]

Kind of a personal decision, but as expensive as final drive parts are, an axle seal is cheap insurance. The other thing to look at is the axle itself. I have torn probably well over 100 final drives apart, and have almost never encountered an axle that I would reinstall again without rebuilding.
Lavoy

[stmftr395]

Thanks Lavoy; What should I be looking for when inspecting the axle shafts? What is the best source for seals? Do you carry them or are they dealer items only. The manual indicates that a special tool will be needed for the seal installation. Is this item available? Mark

[stmftr395]

Lavoy; Is an inspection of the ring gear assembly called for? In the service manual I see that there are oil seals and gaskets and am wondering what the expected service life of these is? Have run this crawler just a little before tearing it down, but there appeared to be no problems with the drive train except for the stuck stearing clutch.Thanks again. Mark

[Lavoy]

Seals are a Deere item if you want the correct one, and I have them too.
Seal tool is necessary for installation, there is not other way to do it. They are not avalilalbe, I had a few made for big bucks and was loaning them out, unfortunately most of them never made it back. I am working with a guy to make cheaper ones, but if you have a lathe, you can make one yourself.
Lavoy

[Jimmy in NC]

Mark-

If you have the final off, go through it. Do you really want to get it all back together just to pull it off again??

Take it from someone who has done it..that it's not that bad nor complicated.. just takes time.

New seals top and bottom on that final and you'll be miles ahead in the long run.


Just my $.02


Jimmy in NC

[stmftr395]

Jimmy; I had suspected that changing the final drive axle seals was the thing to do but was unsure if the work involved would be justified. The advise provided by Lavoy and yourself has helped me to decide that I will change the seals. I also plan to remove the ring gear and change the seals associated with that assembly unless I am instructed that it is not wise. Have removed the transmission cover and done a preliminary inspection. Am very pleased with the condition of these components(little signs of wear or excessive play) and should not have to replace bearings or other machined pieces. Thanks for your help and I will contiue to value opinions posted to my future questions. This message board is a great resourse of information!

[Jimmy in NC]

I just got this 420 back together yesterday afternoon. It's been apart for over 14 months. Got over the fear of the finals and did as you propose to do. Pulled everything off to the transmission case and even pulled the side that supports the diff/spool/ring gear carrier. (What ever you'd like to call it.)
Installed a new seal, gasket, and bearing race on that piece and built it back out from there. After going through the final with all new bearings and seals, shimed properly, etc the final is nice and smooth and quiet. I only ran the tractor for ~20 minutes yesterday but it was well worth the effort. I also would recommend new clutches, pressure plate, throw out bearing etc. Take time to do it right. It's worth it. It's not even that technical, just clean everything and take your time.


Jimmy in NC

[ggfossen]

On my 420, I didn't do all that you all are suggesting, and, although it seems to be running well, I have to wonder about it every time I hear a small noise.

If I were to do it again, I would be much more complete with the process.

If you have it apart, do it right.

Gary