2010 injection pump
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- MC crawler
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 3:36 pm
- Location: Mercersburg PA
2010 injection pump
Just bought this crawler and trying to find tdc to remove the injection pump for a rebuild. Flywheel is rusty and having trouble locating the D/C stamped on the flywheel. I found the 180 stamp and barred crank over another 1/2 a turn and I have found another line on flywheel where I think D/C should be, but no D/C stamp just a line. Also I have no mark in the inspection window of the pump visible, suggestions of what to try next appreciated. Crawler didn't run when I bought it so I'm kinda flying blind on this one. Have owned a 2010 utility tractor for years but its gas, kinda learning on this one. I have factory service and parts manuals.
Re: 2010 injection pump
Try turning the engine over one more full rotation, and see if the marks appear in the pump window. The timing marks on the flywheel will be in line every time #1 or #4 are at TDC, but the pump marks should only match to the flywheel marks when #1 is on compression. The pump turns at 1/2 crank revolutions. Always turn in direction the engine runs.
If someone had the pump off before you got it, put it in out of time, and that is why it won't run, you may need to take the rocker cover off to confirm when #1 is on compression stroke. (Like the 2010 gas engine you have, #1 can be TDC on compression or exhaust, you need to know which TDC, #1 or #4 compression, you are at to time the distributor properly.) If it was installed wrong it is entirely possible you won't get the flywheel marks and pump timing marks to line up at the right time. The Service Manual SM2037 describes setting the pump up properly with its timing marks aligned to install and getting the engine on #1 compression stroke to find the flywheel marks in Section 90-20-2.
If you have a helper for a few minutes, while you are turning the engine over you can use a dowel and emery cloth, or a wire end brush in a drill motor, held against the flywheel while turning the engine to clean the flywheel to help see the marks.
Jim
If someone had the pump off before you got it, put it in out of time, and that is why it won't run, you may need to take the rocker cover off to confirm when #1 is on compression stroke. (Like the 2010 gas engine you have, #1 can be TDC on compression or exhaust, you need to know which TDC, #1 or #4 compression, you are at to time the distributor properly.) If it was installed wrong it is entirely possible you won't get the flywheel marks and pump timing marks to line up at the right time. The Service Manual SM2037 describes setting the pump up properly with its timing marks aligned to install and getting the engine on #1 compression stroke to find the flywheel marks in Section 90-20-2.
If you have a helper for a few minutes, while you are turning the engine over you can use a dowel and emery cloth, or a wire end brush in a drill motor, held against the flywheel while turning the engine to clean the flywheel to help see the marks.
Jim
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- MC crawler
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 3:36 pm
- Location: Mercersburg PA
Re: 2010 injection pump
Thanks jim for the reply, after I posted I pulled valve cover and #1 glow plug and barred engine over until pressure stopped against my finger. I now have plain line in inspection hole, and mark on pump is visible but not centered. This should be close enough to now remove pump correct? I have the sm-2037 manual so I should be good there for installing after the pump goes to the shop.
Re: 2010 injection pump
If you rotated the engine so the engine turned counterclockwise when looking at the fan when seating in the seat and the mark on the flywheel aligns with the mark on the flywheel housing, if you loosen the injection pump mounting bolts you should be able to align the pump's timing marks by turning the pump a bit. If you turned the motor the wrong way the misalignment may be due to gear back lash which you should correct as noted in the manual, now is as good a time as later if that is the case.
Good luck, you're closing in on it. You are having the pump done are you having the injectors checked as well?
Good luck, you're closing in on it. You are having the pump done are you having the injectors checked as well?
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- MC crawler
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 3:36 pm
- Location: Mercersburg PA
Re: 2010 injection pump
yes, getting pump and injectors gone through. I brought this thing home and messed with it for a couple hours replaced a few fuel lines and filters and drained all the old fuel out of it and did get it to run poorly for about and hour or so. When running about 3/4 throttle and you slowed it to idle it would actually speed up instead of idle down until you played with the throttle lever and then it would slow to an idle. then all of a sudden it acted like it ran out of fuel, still could see it in tank but added more and re-bled fuel lines at injectors. lines would get wet, but didn't spray out like before. crawler will not start now. I knew the glow plugs aren't working so I gave it a small spray of starting fluid and it did fire on that so rather than fighting a constant battle with it I'm just going to have everything gone through and hopefully that will solve a lot of issues. I'll address the glowplugs once I have it running. also I could smell diesel in the oil so that is another reason to have the pump gone through. Have the pump and injectors out now and ready to drop off at diesel shop this week hopefully if I can get by there an afternoon this week. I'll keep you posted on my progress as I get the pump back and get it reinstalled. I'm sure I'll have more questions as this goes. I've been around farm equipment my whole life but a crawler is new territory for me.
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- MC crawler
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 3:36 pm
- Location: Mercersburg PA
Re: 2010 injection pump
update on injection pump, Had Injection pump and all 4 injectors rebuilt. aligned all the marks and reinstalled pump and injectors and new glowplugs. got crawler to start but was running rough and throwing a lot of white smoke. Rechecked alignment marks after it cooled down and marks in pump were about 1/8 of an inch apart when D/C on flywheel was on its mark. when installed the first time they were perfectly aligned.
Have been gradually turning injection pump clockwise and it will now start and run smoothly with no smoke up to about 3/4 throttle before it starts to miss and smoke but now I'm out of adjustment. I also adjusted the valves while I had the valve cover off to verify TDC since I was having trouble finding the marks on the rusty flywheel. FYI a 90 deg. head on a dremmel tool and an 8mm wire wheel fits in the flywheel hole and cleans up the flywheel nicely while someone bars it over for you. I also checked the cam gear while I had the injection pump out and didn't seem to have any excessive play for the injection pump drive shaft. Soooooo, what do I check next. I'm out of ideas. Any help or suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Carl
Have been gradually turning injection pump clockwise and it will now start and run smoothly with no smoke up to about 3/4 throttle before it starts to miss and smoke but now I'm out of adjustment. I also adjusted the valves while I had the valve cover off to verify TDC since I was having trouble finding the marks on the rusty flywheel. FYI a 90 deg. head on a dremmel tool and an 8mm wire wheel fits in the flywheel hole and cleans up the flywheel nicely while someone bars it over for you. I also checked the cam gear while I had the injection pump out and didn't seem to have any excessive play for the injection pump drive shaft. Soooooo, what do I check next. I'm out of ideas. Any help or suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Carl
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:34 pm
- Location: Shiner, texas
Re: 2010 injection pump
Assuming the injector pump is good, I would look for either an air (first) or fuel restriction.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way
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- MC crawler
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 3:36 pm
- Location: Mercersburg PA
Re: 2010 injection pump
Injection pump and injectors were just fully rebuilt at a reputable shop. Problem exists even with piping between intake and oil bath air cleaner removed so that's not the issue. blew air through all the lines while everything was apart, and fuel flows freely anywhere I take a line off. I do currently only have 1 fuel line hooked between the fuel tank and filter housing, I need to find another fuel shut off valve to hook the other one up. but the line coming out of the filter housing going to the injection pump is smaller diameter than the hose running in so I can't see how 1 would not supply enough fuel. Any other suggestions?
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