Alternator or Generator

[Jim B]

Do you have the 440Ic service manual? It should have the wiring diagram. Wiring in the dash doesn't need to change other than eliminating any remaining wiring and components related to the original generator charging system, swapping the wires on the ammeter terminals (if it wasn't done when the first alternator was installed) and separating the lights from the rest of the system at the ignition switch, if you aren't going to use a combination switch like the original.

You should contact Lavoy on alternator brackets. I believe he said earlier that he sells a conversion kit. You might be able to get just brackets from him if that is all you need.

Determine the physical size of the battery that will fit well and get the most CCA's in that size that you can, most any should be fine for a 2 cylinder properly converted to 12 volts.

[Lavoy]

Unless you have converted the starter to 12 volts, used the smallest battery you can find, and the cheapest Walmart battery cables. If not, sooner or later you will be looking for a starter nose cone and/or flywheel ring gear. These starters are a little violent on 12 volts, exponentially worse if you put a high CCA battery in them.
You will also need to put in the correct coil, and change polarity on it as well.
I am out of alternator brackets currently.
Lavoy

[Swanybawanie]

The starter has been converted to 12 volts, I do have the service manual, the good one, lol, I thought by eliminating the generator and voltage regulator would change the whole wiring diagram , I will check the wiring schematics to wire up the instrument panel, thank you all for your inputs!

[Swanybawanie]

By the way the coil I bought is a 12 volt Petroniux flamethrower, someone here talked about it awhile back so it sounded good so I bought one, Will that be alright on the dozer?

[Lavoy]

Only if it is internally resisted, if not, you will need to add an external ballast resistor or points will tend to burn quickly.
Lavoy
Lavoy

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

If you don't swap the wires on the ammeter, it will still function, only backwards. It will read discharge when charging. This, because you reversed the system polarity. Not a big deal, really.

I think the CCA will not matter with the battery as there is a fairly narrow range for the physical size you need.

Having a 12v starter is key.

Stan

[Swanybawanie]

Mr. Stan,
If I run one wire from the alternator to the starter then that wire will also be connected to the positive battery wire too. Will that be fine?

[Jim B]

If you run the wire from the alternator battery terminal direct to the starter, instead of the ammeter, it will work but you will have no indication on the ammeter as to whether or not it is charging. To show charge it has to go to the ammeter. The wire to the alternator battery terminal should be at least 12 gauge, 10 gauge would be better, whether you run to the starter or ammeter.
Jim

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

If I were doing a 12v conversion, I would change the ammeter for a voltmeter. Hook the voltmeter to the ignition side of the switch so it isn't on all the time.

Stan

[Swanybawanie]

Should I wire the alternator so that it will function at low RPM? I bought a one Wire Alternator, also should it be necessary to put a ground wire to the back side of that alternator? Or the brackets will supply it enough ground?

[Swanybawanie]

Since I took out most of the old wiring and went to the one wire alternator system there is no fuse in the new system, should I add one?

[Jim B]

Alternator pulley size will make a difference in when it starts charging as well, you want a small diameter pulley on the alternator. Wire it to start charging at a low rpm.

Fuses and or circuit breakers to protect things are always a good idea.

Stan has a good idea with using a voltmeter, instead of an ammeter. I'm changing to or adding voltmeters on my equipment.