John Deere 440 icd advice
John Deere 440 icd advice
I am considering buying a JD 440 icd. I previously started a thread and believed it was a 1010 at first.
It was given to the owner and he does not know much or anything about it. It needs the starter rebuilt or a whole new one. Says it turns hard one way.
The left track looses tension from a bad seal on the adjuster, grease leaks past the seal. Doesn't seem like a big deal to change that.
What concerned me is the milky sludge at the top of the dipstick and oil level wasn't on the stick at all. He claims it works great and did not blow white smoke but has not used it in 3 or 4 months. Would the next thing to do is pull the drain plug to see what comes out?
Also what is the best fluid to use to flush the engine out?
It was given to the owner and he does not know much or anything about it. It needs the starter rebuilt or a whole new one. Says it turns hard one way.
The left track looses tension from a bad seal on the adjuster, grease leaks past the seal. Doesn't seem like a big deal to change that.
What concerned me is the milky sludge at the top of the dipstick and oil level wasn't on the stick at all. He claims it works great and did not blow white smoke but has not used it in 3 or 4 months. Would the next thing to do is pull the drain plug to see what comes out?
Also what is the best fluid to use to flush the engine out?
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Hello,
There are not too many places where water can get into the engine oil. Either it is from the environment ( owner left the dipstick laying on the fender, owner left the fill cap off, rain water down the muffler/exhaust) or it is from the cooling system (cracked head, cracked block, bad head gasket).
If it has not run for weeks, I would just crack the drain plug and see what comes out in the first couple tablespoons. If it is clear water, it may be environmental or the cooling system was filled with water. Next I would pressurize the cooling system with 10-12 pounds and wait 15 minutes. If it is holding pressure and you only get clear water out of the drain plug, you may be on your way to being lucky.
I you start with draining fluid an a new filter. Sea foam is a very good a mitigating water infiltration.
Best regards, Bruce
There are not too many places where water can get into the engine oil. Either it is from the environment ( owner left the dipstick laying on the fender, owner left the fill cap off, rain water down the muffler/exhaust) or it is from the cooling system (cracked head, cracked block, bad head gasket).
If it has not run for weeks, I would just crack the drain plug and see what comes out in the first couple tablespoons. If it is clear water, it may be environmental or the cooling system was filled with water. Next I would pressurize the cooling system with 10-12 pounds and wait 15 minutes. If it is holding pressure and you only get clear water out of the drain plug, you may be on your way to being lucky.
I you start with draining fluid an a new filter. Sea foam is a very good a mitigating water infiltration.
Best regards, Bruce
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Ok thanks. Owner claims it's been an on going issue. Keeps getting Milky, even creamy on top of the dipstick. His mechanic says it's because of condensation and lack of use. I'm not convinced. He doesnt want to be bothered cracking the drain for me. Says it's mine for $800 CAD as is
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Check things as the others have posted. There is the possibility that it is condensation. Running without a thermostat and/or just putting around at low engine speeds can cause condensation to form. An engine needs to be worked to get up to temperature and stay there long enough to evaporate the moisture, or sludge may form. If the crankcase breather is plugged that won't help in venting the moisture out. If the oil isn't milky as well. I would lean towards condensation being a big part of the issue. That you can't see oil on the dipstick isn't a wonderful thing, but old Jimmys/Detroit 2 cycles have been known to have a drip occasionally and need oil added at times.
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Chartersj wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 9:12 amOk thanks. Owner claims it's been an on going issue. Keeps getting Milky, even creamy on top of the dipstick. His mechanic says it's because of condensation and lack of use. I'm not convinced. He doesnt want to be bothered cracking the drain for me. Says it's mine for $800 CAD as is
Jesh....for $800CAN it would be in my driveway and I would be cracking the drain plug (if I were in your position)
Good luck
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Yeah he said he was getting oil coming out of a joint in the exhaust just above where it comes through the hood, below the muffler. Good amount of oil under the motor. All black oil. Said it does blow some blue smoke and pushes dirt good. He will start it for me when I go see it
And needs to be bump started as the starter is no good. For the price im guessing it will be in my yard
And needs to be bump started as the starter is no good. For the price im guessing it will be in my yard
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Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
If you pass on it and it’s close I would buy it. I’m in Edmonton area and always looking for machines to wreck and rebuild.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Put a longer dip stick in and the oil level is just below the original dip stick and it's all black oil. Going back tomorrow with some oil and a test run.
Owner also says blade slowly falls, and doesn't power down only floats down but I see two hoses going to each ram which I would think be power down function. Would that be the control valve?
Owner also says blade slowly falls, and doesn't power down only floats down but I see two hoses going to each ram which I would think be power down function. Would that be the control valve?
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Bit hard to say without knowing what model blade and valve it has, and would still be guessing without doing correct diagnosis. It should be power both ways (double acting) and likely have a float position it locks into when the lever is pushed forward past the lower position. The blades for the 440 crawlers are listed separate from the tractors. It is possible the spool detent components have come loose and are preventing proper travel for lowering. It is possible it has bad cylinder packings. It is possible it has a bad hose, internally restricting flow. If it has full power lifting, that means to me the pump is working so it very well may be something simple you might need to repair and adjust the current valve, might need a new valve, might need to pack the cylinders, might need to change a hose(s).
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Ok thanks for that info. Not sure if it helps or not but the rams and arms for the blade are on the inside of the track. And it's manual angle and tilt. The control valve is mounted on the right side step, I think originally was up on the side of the dash. It didn't look like the seals were leaking but there is some pitting on the cylinders. Up function works well apparently. Will know more tomorrow if we get it startedJim B wrote: ↑Sun Aug 09, 2020 3:51 pmBit hard to say without knowing what model blade and valve it has, and would still be guessing without doing correct diagnosis. It should be power both ways (double acting) and likely have a float position it locks into when the lever is pushed forward past the lower position. The blades for the 440 crawlers are listed separate from the tractors. It is possible the spool detent components have come loose and are preventing proper travel for lowering. It is possible it has bad cylinder packings. It is possible it has a bad hose, internally restricting flow. If it has full power lifting, that means to me the pump is working so it very well may be something simple you might need to repair and adjust the current valve, might need a new valve, might need to pack the cylinders, might need to change a hose(s).
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Blade settling, or not working in one direction or the other is almost always the cylinders, or at least one of them.
It's a diesel, the oil will always be black.
Is it oil blowing out the stack, or fuel? Doesn't really matter, one way or the other, you are looking at engine or injector work.
Lavoy
It's a diesel, the oil will always be black.
Is it oil blowing out the stack, or fuel? Doesn't really matter, one way or the other, you are looking at engine or injector work.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Ok, so the seals inside the cylinders or cylinders themselfs are bad?Lavoy wrote: ↑Sun Aug 09, 2020 4:30 pmBlade settling, or not working in one direction or the other is almost always the cylinders, or at least one of them.
It's a diesel, the oil will always be black.
Is it oil blowing out the stack, or fuel? Doesn't really matter, one way or the other, you are looking at engine or injector work.
Lavoy
Any oil coming out the exhaust means engine is tired? Is there a vent that could be plugged causing crank pressure?
And if it's fuel, injectors need to be rebuilt?
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
Yes, cups are bad on the cylinders.
2 stroke Detroit is by design a pressurized crankcase, but that can't push oil out the exhaust even if it wasn't.
Yes, injectors need replaced possibly, and if so, they need to be set to height with the factory tool, and the rack should be set at the same time.
Lavoy
2 stroke Detroit is by design a pressurized crankcase, but that can't push oil out the exhaust even if it wasn't.
Yes, injectors need replaced possibly, and if so, they need to be set to height with the factory tool, and the rack should be set at the same time.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
The cylinders are tie rod type are they easy to take apart to change out the seals?Lavoy wrote: ↑Mon Aug 10, 2020 7:27 amYes, cups are bad on the cylinders.
2 stroke Detroit is by design a pressurized crankcase, but that can't push oil out the exhaust even if it wasn't.
Yes, injectors need replaced possibly, and if so, they need to be set to height with the factory tool, and the rack should be set at the same time.
Lavoy
I forgot that he also mentioned on a steep incline the motor sounds like it starts to skip some.
Some more info on the hard steering one way, claims if he pulls in quick hard jerks it will turn.
Im not looking to use this for a business but just to play around the yard with
Re: John Deere 440 icd advice
For the most part yes, not hard to take apart.
No idea on the skipping.
If you have to jerk it to get it to work, something is wrong.
Crawler in general kind of sounds like a wreck. I hope you are up for an expensive project.
Lavoy
No idea on the skipping.
If you have to jerk it to get it to work, something is wrong.
Crawler in general kind of sounds like a wreck. I hope you are up for an expensive project.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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