2010 C Steering Issues (Video) - Update: Steering Clutch Repair Recap (Pic's) - Failure Analysis - Unexpected Findings!

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Michael-2010C
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2010 C Steering Issues (Video) - Update: Steering Clutch Repair Recap (Pic's) - Failure Analysis - Unexpected Findings!

Post by Michael-2010C » Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:39 pm

Howdy everyone!
Being new to the to the JDcrawlers Messageboard I thought I would introduce everyone to my 1963 JD 2010 C with a 6-way hydraulic blade with a short 40 second video clip taken a few weeks ago of us working hard in the hills that can be viewed at this link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hRYBZm ... sp=sharing
I believe the left steering clutch/pressure plate assembly needs to be replaced now as the left track will not move very much, if at all, when the right steering lever is pulled back. The dozer easily spins donuts in the opposite direction. The problem occurs in all forward and reverse gears and occurs in High and Low ranges. Transmission fluid level is at the full mark. Am I missing any possibilities?
Appreciate any feedback or suggestions as I attempt repairs having never been into the steering clutch area other than the top access plate for keeping the steering clutches and brake bands in proper adjustments. Hope to document the process on the Messageboard as I get into the repair.
Please give me some feedback as to the quality of the video resolution and audio and if it played OK.
Everyone stay healthy and safe!
Michael
Last edited by Michael-2010C on Wed May 05, 2021 9:31 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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Lavoy
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Re: 2010 C Steering Issues - Need help in Identifying Root Cause - Steering Clutches or Something Else?

Post by Lavoy » Thu Aug 06, 2020 7:18 am

Looks to me like the left clutch is shot.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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Michael-2010C
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2020 5:44 pm

Re: 2010 C Steering Issues (Video) - Update: Steering Clutch Repair Recap (Pic's)- Failure Analysis-Unexpected Findings!

Post by Michael-2010C » Wed Feb 24, 2021 9:39 pm

Finally got started on the tear down to repair the left steering clutch. Had major challenges to overcome in the process. Splitting the track took a lot of time, lots of mechanical muscle, heat and a large sledge. The other major challenge so far was getting the sprocket off. As you can see in the pictures my puller was undersized. I had to use a large clamp to keep the arms from flying off but it worked. I would tighten it up then would hit the head of the shaft with a sledge. Little by little the sprocket came off the three studs and I was able to slide it off.

Link to pictures:
[https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing]
(Click on the thumbnail pictures to bring them to full size)

Hope the pictures help others that may be facing a tear down like this in the future. The Message Board has helped me along the way with various issues so I wanted to give back with pictures and commentary that may help others.

Check back for more updates and pictures as I continue the tear down and repairs.



2010C Steering Clutch Repair - Failure Analysis – Unexpected Findings!

Background: Purchased my 2010C dozer some 25 years ago. Had the local John Deere heavy construction equipment dealership completely overhaul the engine soon after I purchased it. I have performed all the periodic maintenance and adjustments over the years, including the free play in the steering levers and the brake adjustments to keep everything else in proper working order. Dozer only gets occasional use for maintaining the property. Maybe have 150 or so hours, if that, on the new engine rebuild.

One thing however that I could not figure out, until now, was why sometimes, intermittently, the left track steering clutch would slip. Then sometimes it seemed to fix itself and work properly for a while but then would start slipping again. Last year it started slipping more and more and it did not fix itself.

Tear Down and Diagnosis: That’s why I disassembled and removed the left steering clutch for inspection and repairs. I expected to find the 8 friction disks and the 8 steel plates wasted along with a worn out pressure plate. However that was not the case.

Picture 4095 clearly shows one of the major problems but I did not realize it until I took the steering clutch fully apart. PIC 4095 clearly shows the inner hub disengaged with the friction disks by about one inch. What I learned on disassembly was that the expanding “C” clip wire ring on the inner splined drive shaft, PIC 4117 had not been installed properly and was not expanded tightly into the recessed groove in the inner drive hub of the steering clutch PIC 4105, the one behind the pinion shaft (there is a special conical tipped hex set screw that is tightened to engage the ring into the drive hub recessed groove before installing the pinion shaft PIC 4117). That allowed the inner drive hub to “float” an inch or so back and forth. The inward movement was contained by contact with the back side of the pressure plate assembly PIC 4123 as indicated by all the rub marks. It took a set on only engaging 5 of the 8 friction disks most of the time thus only giving only around 62% of the total drive force capacity. Apparently sometimes it would float to the opposite side and engage all 8 disks giving the dozer full non slipping drive power PIC 4109.

I suspect what finally happened, with only 5 friction disks engaged most of the time, more wear occurred causing the fingers of the steering pressure plate to ultimately start touching the throwout bearing then finally partially pressurizing the steering clutch fingers, causing additional slippage even though I still had the proper free play on the steering lever. I did not understand until now that I had run out of adjustment on the throwout bearing engaging shaft and that the throwout bearing was partially engaging the steering clutch and it could not be backed off any further. I suspect the steering clutch fingers were not properly adjusted when it was put together the last time.

Conclusion and Planned Repairs: Have a new pressure plate, throwout bearing, pinion shaft pilot bearing, pinion shaft seal, and a JD227 gauge for adjusting the steering clutch fingers, on order. The friction plates and the steel plates when measured with calipers indicate they still have 75% to 85% life remaining PIC 4102. I probably could use the existing pressure plate but I'm concerned that the springs may have lost a lot of their compression force through all the years. I think the problems that I was having with the slipping left steering clutch are all from improper assembly and adjustment of the steering clutch before I purchased the dozer. Time will tell.

Also have a brake relining kit on order along with an upper track roller bushing and seal kit. I will provide additional updates as I progress with the repairs.


STEERING CLUTCH REPAIR RECAP - SUMMARY REPORT

Ended up replacing all eight friction disks with new ones to insure repair would last as long as possible. Used the existing steel plates as they were in good shape and had no measurable wear or corrosion/rust.

Had to fabricate new throw-out bearing actuator pivots as the metal was worn to the point that the half spheres were ready to just pull right through the pivot points.

Installed a new pilot bearing, new throw-out bearing and new pinion shaft seal.

Riveted new friction material to the brake bands as the old ones were worn close to the rivets.


Upper Track Idler Repair:

While the track was off, my intention was to install two new bushings and a new seal on the upper track idler roller. However after after disassembly and closely inspecting the idler roller and shaft I determined that major rebuilding was required in order to save it from total destruction. The roller was worn to the point that the track was ready to cut into the three threaded holes for the bolts that hold the end cap and grease fitting in place and the shaft was totally destroyed by the worn out bushings. The rubber portion of the seal was completely gone with the metal portion eating into the shaft.

Had to make a new shaft and had to build up the worn portion of the roller. To build up the idler roller close to original O.D. dimensions I purchased a 6” long piece of 4” nominal size (IPS) schedule 160 steel pipe (smooth inside wall) 4.50” O.D, with a wall thickness of .531”. The outside of the roller was trued up by removing a minimal amount of material. Then the I.D. of cut 1.5” “donut” pieces of the sch. 160 pipe was turned to a dimension that was a heavy press fit for both sides of the idler roller.

Used a large hydraulic press along with Lock-tight and pressed both “donuts” onto the idler roller. Then the O.D. was then trued up and cut to the same dimension on both sides. Pressed in the new bushings and the seal into the idler and installed on the shaft. Painted, lubed and installed.


Final Assembly – Adjustments - Field Testing :

Completed final assembly. Made the adjustments for the steering lever free-play and the brake actuation.

Now for the big test. Dozer started right up after sitting for 4-5 months. Let engine warm up to operating temperature. Put into forward low range at about ¼ throttle and proceeded to drive around. At first just doing light S turns, then doing full braking left and right spins in place. All steering and braking actions preformed nominally! JD is back to doing pirouette spins in either direction without any issues! I plan on uploading video of JD working hard in the dirt in the future. I’ll post a link when I have it.

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