61 1010 seized gas engine

[seanc]

My 61 was parked for quite awhile, recently had time to fiddle with and see if it would start. Pulling the plugs they were in fact just finger tight and a few had some rust on the electrode side. The machine ran perfect when it was parked, assuming this was just moisture build up. That said it does seem to be seized at the moment. In nuetral I can drag with tractor and sprockets are rolling free so drive line does not seem to be frozen, but the motor won't turn. If I drag it with it in 4th it does not budge. All four cylinders have been flooded with penetrating oil for last four days. I ended up pulling nose off and pump so I could get a bar on the bottom pully and with a four foot bar I can't get it to move. I'm trying to understand if my logic is still good here, machine with free drive line means I should be able to put a bar on the pully and get it to move with fairly low effort right? Any other thoughts? I want to not take motor out and tear all the way down, I will not have time to rebuild myself so will need to send out for a rebuild which is going to be WAY more than the machine cost me to begin with at which point I am looking at just restoring more or less fully or just moving on to something else...

[gregjo1948]

Sounds to me that, someone is going to have to pull the engine to free it up. It's up to you to determine how far you go to get it "just running" or to do a good rebuild on the engine while it's out.

[seanc]

seems that way at this point, letting the penetrating oil do its thing for awhile longer I guess, letting it work for a few weeks maybe help, i don't know. If the motor comes all the way out I can't imagine not doing a full rebuild, but maybe not, I might just pull the head off where it sits to see the situation. I realize looking at it that its not the original motor, or at least it has been done because its not painted, or at least the block is not yellow...

[dtoots1]

the best and easiest way to assess the situation would be to pul the head and check each cylinder....thoughit mite be possible to use borescope to view each thru spark plug holes, will probably still need to pull head,.
usually what happens is one cylinder leaves exhaust valve open and water enters and of course rusts cylinder to the wall, that can be cleaned up carefully with patience and a.t.f. and acetone mixed to loosen rust...
clean up lubricate and turn by hand/lever etc...

[JAJ]

Below is a private message I sent several years ago on this site. Hope you are not in a hurry!!
Good luck.
JAJ


1010 stuck engine
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Sent: Thu Sep 01, 2005 7:40 am
From: JAJ


To whom it may concern:
The dozer had sat outside for nearly three years before I bought it at an estate auction. Lucky for me the owner was at the auction so I had a chance to talk with him about the history of the machine. He was very imbarrasssed about letting it set so long but assurred me that everything worked fine the last time it ran. So I took a chance and bought the thing. First I drained the crankcase of some terrible nasty looking gunk and flushed it with kerosene twice by putting two gallons in and letting it sit for several days and draining it out. Then I filled the crankcase again with kerosene, I mean "filled it" (about seven gallons)clear to the bottom of the distributor cap base. Now I knew the entire crank, bearing etc were all being totally soaked in the kerosene. I then took out all four spark plugs and filled the cylinders with "Kroil" which, in my opinion, is the best stuff out there for this purpose. Filled right up to the point where it was spilling out of the plug hole. I made a separate dip stick for each cylinder to monitor the amount of sippage that was taking place thru the rings. I used a piece of brazing rod for these dip sticks. It sat there like this for about three months before any sippage started to take place. I kept monitoring the sippage and refilling the cylinders with the Kroil until the front cylinder would totally loose a fill up in about one hour. Now this cylinder was left alone and I kept up the monitoring of the other three cylinders untill all four cylinders were in the same one hour empty out time. For your info this took thirteen months. Also, by now I have rebuilt the Carb, Ignition system, Starter and the Radiator. Be sure that starter is in good shape cause it's going take a beating very soon. The hydaulic pump was removed and two of the four attaching bolts were reinstalled diagonally opposite each other in their threaded holes. I believe I bought 4" long hardened bolts (cannot remember exact length but these two bolts will soon be getting alot of grieve put to them). I hooked up a remote starter button directly to the starter using long enough leads to get to the front of the engine. Now I took a long pipe and got it between the two hardened bolts which will now give the leverage along with the starters help to turn the crank, Starter is turning the back end and you and the pipe are turning the front end. A short prayer at this time would be appropriate! Do not get overly excited at this point. Patience is very very important you could do a lot of damage right now spin a bearing, crack a ring etc etc. Now touch your remote starter button at the same time you apply pessure to the pipe. Mine turned very hard in fact I bent several hardened bolts before any movement was made. Just a thought, but try to use a bar rather then a pipe, this will help you put your turning pressure more at the base of the hardened bolt which will make it less able to bend the bolt under the pressure you will be applying. Again, patience is everything. Mine finally turned and all I moved it was about 10 degrees of a full rotation. Now go back to the spark plug holes and spray in a fair amount of the Kroil. This will help lube the rings and cylinder walls with the pistons in thier new position. Walk away and don't touch the pipe/starter for a few days. Every day go back and spray a little more Kroil in the plug holes. Then after a few days (Patience) go back and roll it another 10 degrees and keep up the same regiment until it rolls over pretty smoothly. Then I drained out all the kerosene and put in three quarts of Mystery Oil and three quarts of 10/30 oil plus a new filter. It started right up(smoked like crazy at first) and run good. Then I just had to check the compression and all four cylinder were ranged from 95 to 105 PSI. I'm sure it was luck, not skill, but she purrs like a kitten and I can hardly wait to get all the other repairs made so I can go push some dirt with it. Hope you have as good of luck as I did.
Best regards,
Jim

[Mark Birdeau]

Maybe look for a good combine engine, that's what I did. Here's the link to my post on the swap.

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