up date 1010 injector pump

[Keith-OR]

I was going to pull injector pump off my 1010 diesel, so I pulled #1 glow plug to get engine up on # 1 compression before I pulled pump.. But I was getting two compression strokes on # 1. I decided I better run a compression test on all cylinders, I had to make an adapter for the glow plug for my compression gauge as none i had that would fit. I got readings I didn't like # 1--100 psi, # 2---120 to 150 psi. # 3--100 psi, and # 4---350 psi. With these readings I just figured I had a blown head gasket between 1 and 2, 2 and 3. Also had anti-freeze in oil pan. Pulled the head, after fighting with it for couple of hrs, It was quite obvious that gasket was blown between 2 and 3, but really couldn't tell if it was blown between 1 and 2.
I called Lavoy Friday too see if he had or could get head gasket set, we discussed on what not to do to remove sleeve deck. After our discussion I set down and designed a puller to remove all 4 sleeves and deck all at once..I thought I would make a gasket out of gasket material for the head, to bolt head back on and do a pressure test on the cooling system, maybe I could find out which sleeve o-ring was leaking into oil pan. BUT I didn't get a far, I decided to put straight edge on the head and deck, hhhhmmm head is warped. so now I have a feeling water was getting into pan via warped head.
Taking head to machine shop Wed to get it surfaced, after which I will pressure test cooling system.
Will post my results and design of the puller I have built.

[Keith-OR]

Got the head surfaced today, only took this machine shop 45 minutes to surface it. And cost me $ 95.00 which I thought was a really fair price. A supper nice job!!!

[Hurlbutt]

I'm going to display my ignorance with a question: Do you have to use a thicker head gasket with the head having been machined which would increase the compression ratio or possibly cause clearance issues in the combustion area?
I ask because in looking a part offerings for the VW ALH TDI engine, there are three different thickness gaskets available for how the tolerances stacked up when the engine was originally built.

[Lavoy]

Normally they will only remove maybe .003 to .005 or so, not enough to affect anything, and different thickness gaskets are not available either.
Lavoy

[Keith-OR]

They had to remove .0065 to clean my head up. I checked with straight edge on the head to make sure the valves had enough clearance , everyone checked out good.
I'm lapping the valves in with fine compound, after which I will use Prussian Blue to make sure there is not high or low spots on valves or seats. Even though valves and seats look really great., better to be safe, than sorry!!!

[gregjo1948]

If you're going to be safe rather than sorry, you should reface the valves and seats. Lapping valves isn't meant to fix imperfections. When lapping valves, you don't spin the valve 360 degrees. I know a couple people that chuck up the valve in a drill motor and spin it round and round. That's just WRONG. I mark across the valve onto the head for reference, then turn the valve back and forth just a few degrees. The line(mark) on the valve and head is used to show where to put the valve back in if you're needing to repeat the procedure. Pull the valve out, clean the lapping compound off it, then check to see if there is a mark around the valve face showing that there are no high or low spots where the valve isn't seating.

[Keith-OR]

Why reface when there is no wear on either valve face or seat. I have a BIL that worked in a head rebuild shop for 20 years, and he looked at my valves and told me just to lap them in. So I followed advice of the individual in the know!!! About the same advice I relieved from machinist that surfaced the head, after he looked at the seats..

Thanks for advice anyway

[gregjo1948]

If you lap the valves and find a good line on the valve face, there isn't any reason to reface them. If the lap line is very close to the top of the valve, you do risk "burning" the valve. When the seating ring on the valve is near the top of the face, the valve is thinner and more likely to fail. As you probably have seen, after prolonged hammering a valve on the seat, it will also start to cup. Even though it may still be holding compression as it should, it should have a "valve job" done.