Hydraulic leaks and systems.

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Bowrich1
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Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Bowrich1 » Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:27 pm

So my father has a 1963 2010c, absolutely love that little machine but as of lately it leaks hydraulic fluid from controls and the blade refuses to stay up unless you hold it up. The controls definitely have slop in the linkage, but I've ran into an absolute wall as far as diagnosing why the blade won't stay up amd where to find parts. I appreciate all comments and advice!!

B Town
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by B Town » Mon Apr 12, 2021 4:59 am

Sounds like a cylinder packing has failed. It it much more common for the cylinder to fail vs the valve body.

Are you able to isolate one cylinder with the blade up and then the other cylinder? This may help determine which or if either cylinder is in need of a rebuild.

Best regards,

Bruce

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Lavoy
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Lavoy » Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:22 am

As Bruce has said, it is very seldom the valve. You need to reseal the cylinders first.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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Lavoy
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Lavoy » Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:22 am

As Bruce has said, it is very seldom the valve. You need to reseal the cylinders first.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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dtoots1
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by dtoots1 » Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:44 am

re..cylinders....your local hydraulic shop will probably have the cups and seals...however...if you can take them apart yourself...and replace all needed ..will save you a bunch...cylinders mite need honing if any bad areas....my jd440ic cost me $300 bucks for 1 cylinder..gotparts needed for 2 cyls and fixed the last one....parts cost me $50...some cylinders are not made for wrenches and take a special tool so don't know what on the 2010..tho hammer and punch mite work on the slotted ends
if not available Lavoy may have..

Bowrich1
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Bowrich1 » Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:52 pm

I will see what I can figure out this weekend, any one have some leads on parts for these crawlers? All the pins and linkage on blade controls are super sloppy. I appreciate all the info guys!

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Lavoy
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Lavoy » Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:08 pm

I have parts, but not those pieces. Most likely those pieces are obsolete.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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dtoots1
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by dtoots1 » Tue Apr 13, 2021 6:02 am

my pivot points for the blade controls were all loose and sloppy also....i simply went to my local ace hardware store and bought several sizes of small brass tubes that would fit the pins and holes...made bushings...tightened them up and working much better!!..as they wear out simply replace them..
Also had problem with the clamps (inside the dash housing) gripping the control rods...had machine shop make me 2 sets of rods and tubing to fit the clamps...old ones over time wore just enough off so clamps could not lock tight and hold., course mine is 6 way blade, don't know what setup you have..

also...add your location to your profile...access is located in drop down login box..

Jim B
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Jim B » Tue Apr 13, 2021 6:12 am

I would recommend doing both cylinders.

Bowrich1
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by Bowrich1 » Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:33 pm

You guys are amazing! I appreciate all the help. Will try to post more as I learn and get this fixed. Update location by the way. Located in the center of Missouri!

dtoots1
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Re: Hydraulic leaks and systems.

Post by dtoots1 » Tue Apr 13, 2021 9:44 pm

In regards to your sloppy control linkage...also today i checked my new front loader controls and linkage there too was really sloppy...found several of my brass tubes...only one fits one linkage hole on each control lever....they both have stove bolts in them so are even smaller than pins should be...they do fit the brass tube well enough so thats helped those 2 holes/pins...none of my tubes would fit the other top holes...so i used plastic tubing in them and opening was a bit tight for the stove bolts and with a bit of persuasion was able to get them thru...end result is much tighter linkage...HTH

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