2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and crawlers in general. Thanks for letting me join. I purchased a 2010 gas crawler loader with add on blade a while back for a great price. The machine itself seems pretty solid. After a carb kit, fluid and filter changes, and a gas tank flush, I have it running pretty good. The one main problem I have is, when in reverse, it really dogs the engine down. It will barely move itself in reverse. Forward seems pretty good for power. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks for any input!
Re: 2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
Welcome aboard! please add your location to your profile...access is in drop down long box, someone may be nearby to offer help.
Also, need a bit more info such as how do the steering brakes react when you use them? and the foot brake?...the foot brakes are rather notorious to be sticking or frozen.
Also, need a bit more info such as how do the steering brakes react when you use them? and the foot brake?...the foot brakes are rather notorious to be sticking or frozen.
Re: 2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
Thanks for responding. I live outside Elko nv. I added that to my profile. The steering brakes seem to work fairly well. The left works really good, and the right side sometimes needs to be worked a couple times to engage for a sharp turn. The foot break seems a little weak to me, but does function. My crawler will roll freely if brake is not engaged. So it doesn't appear to me that the brakes are stuck. The other thing I noticed is, in colder temps, I have to disengage the hydraulics with the rod on the floor, when I start it. It needs to warm up a bit to engage them, or it will dog the engine way down. And even then when I engaged the hydraulics, it wants to creep forward or back even when the reverser is in the neutral position. Also, periodically, the foot clutch doesn't function, but that is more so in colder temps.
Re: 2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
OK...I would suggest first taking a close look at the steering brakes visually and possibly with a bore scope to determine if there may be oil getting to the brakes...or critters and other junk...after seeing if contaminated you should probably try to adjust the steering brakes, which sometimes require a couple attempts to get correctly adjusted..if they are contaminated with oil or in bad shape they will require replacement and i would also probably replace the steering clutches at the same time as they will be accessible.
make attempt to free up the foot brake linkages and lubricate well as they do freeze up ..especially where they cross over inside the dash housing.
foot clutch could be linkage problem...worn, loose ..lubrication....
engage hydraulics?? and unit creeps?....i.e. raise blade?....if that the case it would sound like drive clutch needs adjustment or replaced..
what happens if you hold clutch in?
make attempt to free up the foot brake linkages and lubricate well as they do freeze up ..especially where they cross over inside the dash housing.
foot clutch could be linkage problem...worn, loose ..lubrication....
engage hydraulics?? and unit creeps?....i.e. raise blade?....if that the case it would sound like drive clutch needs adjustment or replaced..
what happens if you hold clutch in?
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- 2010 crawler
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Re: 2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
Creeping with the clutch pedal depressed indicates bad bearings in the HLR portion in the transmission. I would pull the top off the transmission and inspect.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
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John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
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John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
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John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
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Re: 2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
Would the bad bearings I the HLR cause the engine to bog down in reverse?
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- 1010 crawler
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Re: 2010 crawler dogs down in reverse
While in reverse with the clutch depressed pull back both steering handles, then let the clutch out. If the engine doesn't bog down the problem is in the finals (or brakes). If it does the problem is ahead of the final drives.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way
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