missing gear teeth and a part number

[dnormand25]

Bill had suggested i post the part number of my gear and see if anyone had a spare. I disassembled the transmission today and positivly identified the gear cluster as that of first and second gear #t16599t confirmed by teeth count as 23,28 and 34. If anyone has a spare they'd like to part with i would appreciate it, let me know what you want for it. In addition i'd like to get a shifter fork # t14217.I'm going to replace all of the bearings, does anyone know an after market name and number for the roller bearings (jd8626)?

Thanks,
David in Ms

P.S. i debated wether i should post this in parts, but i fiqured since the root thread started here that it was appropriate. sorry if i am mistaken

[wwattson]

Hi David,

Buck and Knobby in Michigan has got to new old stock gears fo, brace yourself, $350 each. Their system showed they had the fork as well but they couldn't put their hand on it when I called them.

Here's a link to their site.

http://www.buckandknobby.com/parts/listparts.html

Steve Venia is the guy I've worked with in the past. They've always treated me fairly and are prompt on getting order shipped.

The Allied network shows some used forks available. If you hook up with one of the listed dealers on their web site they should be able to run one down. The dealer list is http://www.epartdirect.com/

Lavoy might have the best line on both parts now that you've posted the numbers. Used parts in good condition might be the most cost effective way to go but at least there are new ones out there.

[dnormand25]

Bill, thanks for the reply. I've been researching parts and prices for a few months now and have all of the major assemblies apart. I'm at the point where its time to start spending the money and buying parts.
I've been studying your pictures for some time. Hows the project going? I've been jumping from assembly to assembly. I have finally decided to paint/rebuild the transmission, put it to the side and start rebuilding the bottom rollers, working up from there. I am petrified i'll spend all this money and have a problem rebuilding the engine. Have you ever come across any pictures with a different engine asides from the 1010 retro fitted? I'd like the comfort of a newer engine with more economical and availible parts. I mostly want a usable machine, but while its important to me to be fairly true to the orginal machine, the previous owner replaced the original engine with a 2010.

Best of Luck

David in Ms

[wwattson]

I know what you mean about the high cost of dealing with a Deere engine. I don't believe that anything but a Deere engine will fit without some sort of adaptor of the sort you used to find in the JC Whitney catalog (like the adaptor to fit a GM engine to a Willy's jeep). I don't know of such a thing for the 1010.

The 145 used in the 2010 might be too much HP for a 1010. It seems to me that if you are using it as an everyday machine, looking for a running 1010 engine out of a scrapped out row crop or utility version might be the best way to go. My goals are a little different in that I'm trying to restore the crawler as authentically as practical. If I wasn't, I'd have probably not have spent the money I'm spending on the engine overhaul and shopped around for a 115 with lower hours.

The project is coming along but I have been having all sorts of "fun" fighting with frozen bolts and other parts for the last two weekends. I've spent about 4 hours trying to get the dozer blade frames off the crawler but the pins are frozen into the rear bar bracket. I thought I'd outsmart it by just removing the rear bar bracket and found that the bottom two bolts on the bracket are also stuck solid. I should be posting some updated photos of the progress as soon as I'm making any.

Did take a short break to work on my other project last weekend (an IH 2606 tractor loader backhoe) and pretty much ended up with the same assortment of frozen bolts, frozen control shafts, and stuck pins as the crawler. The only difference with the IH is that although it's a bigger tractor, much of the hardware on it is smaller and easier to break. There must be a rule where it can't be easy or you need longer wrenches. It is making me a better welder and machinist though and I've recently learned the magic of silver brazing. That's already come in handy for a broken control shaft and a broken control arm casting.

[Lavoy]

Buying a different engine, and then having all the headaches associated with trying to retrofit something will probably end up costing more than rebuilding the engine you have. There are so many 1010's out there that finding an engine will not be hard even if yours can't be fixed or you want to go back to original.
Lavoy