steering clutch wont disengage

[jbernd56]

Bought a 40C this summer and and am just now getting around to it. Serial #64760. The right hand steering clutch wont disengage.Brake works fine. I looked in the top through the inspection hole and the throw out bearing is moving but not making the clutch fingers move. The Left side does move the clutch fingers just a little. Enough to turn but I dont think it is opening them up far enough.

My question is: Can you pour some diesel or kerosine in the clutch housing and run it back and forth maybe to soak up a little rust and crud? There is a plug in the bottom of the housing for drainage. Can you get enough fluid in the housing before it runs out of the hole for the brake rod?
I may be replacing clutches in the spring, but if the right side will work at least as well as the left, it will get me through the winter. By the looks of the adjusting screw slots, I dont think the bearing will go any closer to the clutch fingers.

The 40C has a Yakima Dozer/toolbar blade on it that I would love to have some info on also. If I get the hang of the fourm, I will try to post pictures.

I have a Cat 22 tractor also, so I am not completely uninformed on mechanical stuff of this nature. Any information on this matter will be greatly apprieciated.

Thanks in advance.

[Buckhorn]

I don't think you want any lubricant in there as you'll contaminate the clutch disc's. Try and see if you can adjust it a little more. I've heard of people having someone pull them around while working the lever. You may have to take it apart and redo the clutch.

[jbernd56]

Is there some adjustment on the clutch fingers? There is a 1/4 inch bolt with a lock nut on each one, but looks like a bear to get to .

[Paul Buhler]

These crawlers have dry clutch packs using steel and fiber plates. Do not introduce any lubricants into the clutch area; it will ruin the fiber plates, and they will never work properly.
Try adjusting first. I use a speed wrench with a socket taped on so I won’t lose it, or a long set of extensions on a ratchet to get to the set screw. There’s a sequence f steps needed to get the throw out bearing and fingers working as a team.
As others have said, if a machine sits for a long time, the steels and fiber plates can fuse. Sometimes some tough love will break them free. I don’t like that method. I’ve rebuilt my 420 finals, and it’s not that hard. Get a manual, and the steps are straight forward. The finals are reasonably light, an engine hoist lifts them nicely. I used a jury-rigged gantry and floor Jack with some sweat and wiggling.
Once inside, you can determine the cause of your problems and go from there. Lavoy carries all the parts I needed. He probably has yours as well.
Good luck.

[Jim B]

Paul and Buckhorn have given you correct info. I am guessing you don't have any manuals, which would explain adjusting the steering clutches and brakes. The 40C falls in with the older Ag tractors for JD manuals and because of that, you can actually download a pdf copy of the operator's manual, free, from the JD Ag Technical info store. It has the adjustment procedure in it. Follow every step and do them in the order given. You may have to do it more than once to get things right. (For anyone reading this that might be looking for a manual for a later series crawler. The 430s are the last models in the Ag bookstore. The 440 series [start of the yellow] fall in the Construction and Forestry bookstore, and nothing is free there.)

Here is a link to the JD Ag Technical info store: https://techpubs.deere.com/
Click the Equipment Publications tab.
Enter 40 in the Search Terms box.
When a list of titles appears below the box, click on the 40 at the top of the list.
You should get a list of 38 results. You want Tractors - Base Units that you will find start at the bottom of the 3rd page and continue on the 4th. The manuals for the crawlers, based on serial number are the one on the 3rd page and the first selection on the 4th page. Select the right one for your serial number (062263 and before or 062264 and after are the choices) and there is a symbol to the right side to click on to get a download.

You should also get a service manual, those are not free from JD. I will recommend you contact Lavoy either by email or phone and get printed copies of the manuals for your machine. He has these in stock in his store, or can get them. He/his store provides this site for our use, so it is right to support him where we can.
Jim

[original possum]

You adjust the clutch through the bung hole, not the top cover. If the TO bearing will not reach the fingers when adjusted all the way out you have no choice but to remove the final. Just make sure the 1/2" socket doesn't fall off when adjusting.

[jbernd56]

Thanks to all. I DO have manuals Parts, Sercive and operating! I dont think ( I could be wrong) the fiber discs are much different than what CAT used, and washing with kerosine seems to be the go to method of freeing up the steering cluthces.

Unless the Throw out bearing comes a lot further out than the slot in the collar, I think I am looking at opening it up anyway. I will try it.
I think I stated in an earlier post, I am not mechanicly "challenged".. Just thought someone might have a simple method before I invest time and $$'s

Looking forward to gleaning much more info from everyone out there. If there is an EASY way to post pictures I want to know that as well. I AM somewhat computer "challenged". I have read through all the steps and as they say, Its Greek to me! Untill I actually do it a time or two.

[gus]

I've owned 3 Cats, D2 and 2 D4s. I now have a couple of 420s and a parts machine.

The steering clutches are NOT the same. I did use a couple gallons of solvent in one of the D4s to free up the steering clutches and drained out a bunch of rust.

This will not work on a JD. It might end up costing you more money. Some of the clutches might be reusable but not if you dump solvent in there. They need to be 100% dry.

[Lavoy]

If the throwout bearing isn't touching the fingers, it is because the clutch discs have absorbed moisture and swelled, crushing the fingers of the pressure plate down the pressure plate frame. There is no easy fix to stuck clutches, and NEVER introduce any form of petroleum product into a fiber clutch, then you just get to replace them anyhow.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Jbern56,
My jd440ic had a similar problem, after tearing the left side down i found out that my brake band had actually broken one band right in half and the clutch itself had been collapsed...while there i replaced all parts including the bearing carrier tube , since i originally broke the bearing lock bolt and had to drill it out and actually drilled into the carrier tube...
these machines are over 60 years old so you never know just exactly what can be broke or missing..
You will be amazed at how well it does work ..once you have everything back together....and ADJUSTED properly, which may well take several times adjusting...since everything connecting is worn!!!
adjust both sides....and you will need the clutch gauge of set the clutch.
Get machine on solid floor and ride it up on at least 2 2x8 planks for each track and then block up machine with solid blocks where you have enough room to work underneath ...SAFELY!!
my guess is both sides need work or replacement