rusted gas tanks
rusted gas tanks
It sure would be nice to hear how to clean and reseal the inside of a fuel tank. I have the tank off just have to figger out what to do. Any help would be appreciated.
Is the Kreem Tank Liner the stuff you're thinking of?
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/revie ... ew1297.htm
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/revie ... ew1297.htm
Bill Wattson
tank sealer
Theres also a product from POR 15 that should be very good.If it's anything like por paint,DON'T get it on your hands,you'll have to wear it off.Don't ask me how I know!
Russ
Russ
- DiggerLarry
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:35 am
- Location: Charlotte, NC
- Contact:
Neil,
I use the Kreem product. If it's not clean, I don't think the liner will do much good, long term. This is what I do.
For the cleaning part, take a small chain, I have about a 3 ft. peice of some 1/8 link stuff. Put it in the tank with some lacquer thinner. Roll it around for a while. Don't forcefully shake as you may dent it. Dump it out and rinse with clean lacquer thinner. This seems to do a good job of knocking off the scaley stuff and the lacquer thinner will help with any varnish from old gas. Let it dry so as to not mix the following chemical.
I'm a big fan of the Jasco Prep and Prime or any phosphoric acid product to neutrilize the rust. Put a little in, swish it around and dump. Let dry for a couple of days. Rinse with water and let dry again. A little air from the air hose blown into the tank helps to circulate air and dry the tank but let the prep dry on it's own. It's working as it dries. The metal prep will not let it rust again. I've also used a dash of lacquer thinner to help displace the water and speed drying.
I have fixed minor holes with solder or JB Weld. Both have worked for me. It's important for both to work well that the tank be clean. Outside at the repair spot as well. If soldering, be careful with the flux and rinse the inside again after it's repaired. Rusty metal will not solder well so, epoxy may be the better choice. Usually it's the inside that's rusty and soldering will work. Rinsing will also will tell you if the repair is good.
I then coat it with Kreem tank liner. I have heard the POR product is also good but have not used it myself.
It doesn't make sense for me to keep a full tank of gas my crawlers, for several reasons, which would help prevent the condensation from creating more rust. This seems to work well for cleaning and stoping rust from coming back. I do all mine this way.
I use the Kreem product. If it's not clean, I don't think the liner will do much good, long term. This is what I do.
For the cleaning part, take a small chain, I have about a 3 ft. peice of some 1/8 link stuff. Put it in the tank with some lacquer thinner. Roll it around for a while. Don't forcefully shake as you may dent it. Dump it out and rinse with clean lacquer thinner. This seems to do a good job of knocking off the scaley stuff and the lacquer thinner will help with any varnish from old gas. Let it dry so as to not mix the following chemical.
I'm a big fan of the Jasco Prep and Prime or any phosphoric acid product to neutrilize the rust. Put a little in, swish it around and dump. Let dry for a couple of days. Rinse with water and let dry again. A little air from the air hose blown into the tank helps to circulate air and dry the tank but let the prep dry on it's own. It's working as it dries. The metal prep will not let it rust again. I've also used a dash of lacquer thinner to help displace the water and speed drying.
I have fixed minor holes with solder or JB Weld. Both have worked for me. It's important for both to work well that the tank be clean. Outside at the repair spot as well. If soldering, be careful with the flux and rinse the inside again after it's repaired. Rusty metal will not solder well so, epoxy may be the better choice. Usually it's the inside that's rusty and soldering will work. Rinsing will also will tell you if the repair is good.
I then coat it with Kreem tank liner. I have heard the POR product is also good but have not used it myself.
It doesn't make sense for me to keep a full tank of gas my crawlers, for several reasons, which would help prevent the condensation from creating more rust. This seems to work well for cleaning and stoping rust from coming back. I do all mine this way.
-
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 11:12 am
- Location: Kabetogama Mn.
rusted gas tanks
check out the eastwood company. while i have not used the product, i know they supply it.
Thanks for the info guys I have a couple of bombadiers with the same problem. Seasonal use is a real pain sometimes. All the machines I got are used in the winter on the ice. Refueling when the snow is flying is even trickier than in the rain. moisture is a real pain too. Should have everything running soon tho.
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