Deere 820-2010 Loader Backhoe final drive removal. Lots - O -Rust!

[fundytides]

You are right Lavoy, it is 1" and the chain had to be shortened. so back to my original questions, what is the best way to remove the pin and can I drive it right on through?

[Lavoy]

Yes, it can go either way. There should be a relief in the middle of the pin, so once you have it in about an inch, it will jump to the other side, and then you drive it the last inch. Some heat on the links will help, but not too much so that they bend. If you can get something on the inside to act as a deadman, that will help. I use a giant air hammer called a scaler to pound them out.
Difficult job sometimes if you are doing it alone. As I am almost always doing it alone, in the past, I used a torch, blow the centers out of both ends of the pin, let it cool, and they come right out, then put in new pins. This is the only way I do 350 rails, they are just too much of a pain in the ass to do otherwise.
Lavoy

[fundytides]

Thanks Lavoy. I think it was only about 10 years ago that I installed this track so the pin shouldn't come out too hard. The only reason I am taking it apart is that the final drive will not release so the clutches probably need some work. Might be in touch with you about these. I did hit the pin using a drift and a small mall and it moved inward about 1/4" so, with a little more force, and maybe a little heat, I think it will go ok

[Lavoy]

If it moved, you've got it made.
Lavoy

[jimmydiesel]

This worked well on the 350 chains on my 440. It is an OTC ball joint press.

[fundytides]

Thanks jimmydiesel. Another good option

[iowahill1]

Found what I assume to be the master pin. The oblong shape differs from all the round pin heads, and it looks like it's been running loose or free. I can't quite get to the inside to see how it's held but would assume it's a clip of some kind. Anyone know what I should be looking for? Getting access is a challenge at the moment, and a power wash is in order before tackling the removal.

Thanks, -Tom

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[original possum]

Should be a snap ring that can be a bear to remove the first time. Unless you have an outer snap ring tool for snap rings without holes the best I've found is two screwdrivers of the same width turned in opposite directions.

[iowahill1]

Thanks, now I know what to feel for. The track cannot be moved and the master is at the bottom. I've slacked off the track adjuster to get as much play in the rail as I can, but pad removal isn't going to be easy due to limited available clearance. I have all kinds of snap ring tools, so once I get it clean and better access to the inside of the rail I might be able to wrangle it out. BTW, where can I get new bolts for the pads? Never had to search for them before. -Tom

[fundytides]

I've always used Fastenall. My opinion is regular bolts and lock nuts. Others may disagree.

[iowahill1]

I've seen "plow bolts" mentioned before and thought that maybe the alloy was better suited for high abrasion applications. The heads on my pads are low profile. I buy from Fastenal and will check them out if and when need, which may be sooner than later! My pads look pretty sad but getting the final drive and clutch freed up is the priority at the moment. -Tom

[fundytides]

Not sure about your machine, but my old 40c does not take plow bolts which are a different profile altogether from a regular bolt. If in doubt, ask Lavoy what he recommends.

[iowahill1]

Am I correct in assuming you went with Grade 8 hardware? -Tom

[fundytides]

Am I correct in assuming you went with Grade 8 hardware? -Tom

[fundytides]

No, I used Grade 5. Others can chime in if I am wrong but I think the theory is that it is better for the fasteners to wear than the shoes.