2010 loss of power

[rjdimaggio]

I have a 1963 2010C #42193 Diesel that I have owned for 16 years. Rebuilt one side clutches with parts from Lavoy. Used it to do a fair amount of work around the house. Well it sat for almost a year and a half and then I needed it again. Put fresh fuel in it, checked the oil and radiator, filled the hydraulic tank and got it started after a little effort.
Ran it for about an hour over a couple days. In the middle of pushing some dirt around, it started to stumble and drop in rpm. I ran the throttle up and down a bit and it seemed to help a bit. Then it died. I have tried to start it on several occasions with the same result. I use the cold weather injector pump and hit the heaters and after a few cranks it starts but immediately dies. Since then, I have replaced the first filter, the fuel line going from the second filter to the injector pump, cracked the lines leading to the injectors and cranked the engine seeing very little in the way of fuel. I have the books (service manual and parts catalog) and am trying to see if there is anything else in the line that would clog the fuel delivery system.
Anyone have any suggestions? By the way, the injector pump in the parts book looks NOTHING like the pump I have on this unit.

just hope I can get this moved before it rains.

thanks a bunch
rj

[Lavoy]

Make sure there is no vacuum in the tank like the vent in the cap is plugged, look for crud in the tank plugging the outlet. Take the sediment bowl/s if it has them off and check for flow there, plugged lines to the filters, air in the system are a few of the places I would start.
Lavoy

[rjdimaggio]

I installed a new fuel line from second stage filter out to inlet of injector pump. Checked for good flow thru fuel line at pump. On the pump I have, across the body of the pump, on the opposite end of the inlet there is a bung marked "OUT." I cracked this open and opened petcock and appears to get some fluid exiting, but not a full flow. After that, cracked open injector line for #1 at the pump and turned engine over seeing some spitting. Tightened it back down and went to other side at injectors and cracked those lines. Turned engine over and got some spitting. Tried starting it and it fired and lasted maybe 10 seconds before it quit. Now I am back to nothing coming out the lines at the injector. Repeated opening "OUT" again, but still get less than full flow.
Killing me...This should be a piece of cake to troubleshoot...guess I can't eat cake.

[jimmydiesel]

Remove the return line from the injection pump. Remove the fitting that screws into the pump cover. The fitting will have a check valve in it. Check to see if it is plugged with little black chunks (mouse turds). If the check valve is plugged the injection pump will need repaired.

[rjdimaggio]

It appears that there is no check valve in the return line..I'm afraid this pump has just gone the way of the dinosaurs. I would try and rebuild it if I could find someone that supplies a kit of parts, but in my research, it appears there are as many injector pumps as there are carter little liver pills.
I guess I could rip it apart. I can't hurt it at this point

[rjdimaggio]

I was wrong. I removed the return line and fitting(s) again, and the fitting next to the pump is indeed a check valve. I think it may have had a piece of debris keeping it from closing all the way. Does this mean the pump is indeed kaput?

[rjdimaggio]

Tried loosening the 4 screws that hold the cap on top of the pump and saw a few bubbles coming out. Did this until I got no more air. Then removed the inspection cover with the fuel shutoff valves open and got a tiny little dribble. Cranked the engine with this little cover loose, and got a good flow of fuel to come out which looked like it was pulsing with when the injectors should fire. Tightened inspection cover and cracked one injector line at the pump and got hardly anything. Battery charger is back on now.

[jimmydiesel]

The engine will still run if the check valve is held open.
If it is plugged with debris it will equalize the case pressure with the charge pump pressure and stop the flow of fuel to the pump. You should be able to blow thru the valve one way and not the other.

[jimmydiesel]

The pulsing fuel at the cover would be the charge pump pumping.

[rjdimaggio]

Jimmy,
Sent you private message. I can't tell if it's still sitting in the outbox or not so I don't know if you got it.
Was wondering if I could call you to discuss this in more detail. I am retired so I can call anytime.
thanks
rj

[rjdimaggio]

At the recommendation of Jimmy Diesel, I removed the check valve in the return line, gave it one tiny shot of ether, cranked it and it fired right up. Lavoy, you were right that it didn't sound like the pump was the problem. I still can't wrap my head around why this worked...however, I can get the old girl moved now...

Great to be on this board.
thanks again