jd420 pics

[gus]

I know it's a removal. The center wear point has gone beyond the track hole on the inside (it was still in line at first). The wear point is now catching the inside of the track on the opposite side. The pin has possibly dropped down slightly into the wear areas and caught. Possible it's catching on the sprocket itself if it is over the sprocket.

If possible, tap it back a little and rotate it 90 degrees. That might eliminate the catch point.

[dtoots1]

All,

Still heating; and beating this bitch....i am using old used synthetic oil from my GMC to both lube both inside and outside chain of the pin....also tried apply ice to the end of the pin sticking out the furthest....head... actually put it all way back in to see what end looks like...groove is clean for the c clip end does get flush with the chain....heated both inner and outer links on both sides as well as put some heat to bushing ......and then iced the end...of pin

moved pin inside outer link to maybe 1/16 inside but seems to go no further....also tried to turn the blamed thing even while pounding on pin w/extension on 1 1/2 open end on head....NO DICE>>>>dont want to put pipe wrench on the flats to screw them up...tho i dam sure will with my 5 ft pipe handle if it does not get started next time....am pooped

by the way..have track shoes bolted thru the links and bolted tight while still having pin clear

[dtoots1]

Well the continuing saga..continues..

I was able to grab ahold of the master pin and spun it around not quite 90 degrees...oiled it up a bit...and moves outward and inward easily...until flush with the chain itself...then no go!!...i will try tomorrow to rotate pin a bit more and see what happens..i made sure the clip end was not flattened as ground the leading edge down and pin is flush with chain...do these blamed pins catch on both inner and outer links...moving that 1/2 inch or so should get past at least 1 link...by the way i also have rachet binder picking up slack in that link so should be loose enough...tho i now wonder could that make issue with binding as link looser??

working by self a bit of hindrance...since not co operating...so wonder if can weld short stub to pin and really hammer into link thata way??
guess my old 440 spoiled me as it worked great with drift pin and small sledge

[gus]

I've only removed them when they were on the top of the sprocket. Front idler backed off, no binder. I used a loose fit pin to finish driving the master out.

I did use a binder when reinstalling it.

[dtoots1]

Am about 1 o clock on sprocket...maybe 2 o clock...just far enough can get to both sides of pin clear to hammer..2 shoes off and bolted them over pin tite to chain to keep solid

[Lavoy]

If it catches when it is flush, the end of the pin is mushroomed. Doesn't matter if you can't see it visually, you are dealing in thousandths of a inch. Grind the circumference of the pin, not the end, will make a huge difference.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Yup,
Lavoy just read your message, but i had already figured it out and ground the mushroom down.....and it sure did make the difference....

Now that blamed final housing is really stuck tight to the base....i know the guide pin usually causes problem and it has been loosened a bit....it now appears to be located at the hollow pins where the drawbar sits on them.. actually is tight all around and kinda feels like maybe someone used permatex on something on blamed thing...am able to get putty knive between by hammering a bit but can tell that lower right rear corner is really tight against....
have all bolts out including the 2 underneath tranny...the topmost hollow pin at the drawbar appears to be rusted to the drawbar and cannot get anything there to clean up a bit.....can these hollow pins be driven thru the drawbar from outside and can they be replaced...lower one is pitted and rusted quite a bit but appears that it would go out with the housing, if i could get blamed thing loose....would air hammer be best to drive hollow pins out?

tried jacking it up with floor jack under the housing and only thing it does is pick up whole rearend of machine

[tldec50]

The dowels are threaded all the thru and I screwed a bolt outside to inside in the dowel,used a big hammer to drive out thru the drawbar.It was easier to swing hammer that way,but nothing goes exactly right till I get a little blood flow.,Tim

[dtoots1]

Well now we have a bit of success!!!
I actually used wood shims...like used for doors/windows framing....it actually appears that the 2 dowel pins...not hollow ones...were the culprits as the hollow dowells cleared....i used 7 or 8 wood shims all around from 11 oclock position clear down to 5 oclock...after i was able to use putty knives to get enough opening for the shims.....it actually looks like they used red permatex on this blamed thing....which is probably the major problem... as per Lavoy on my 440 the surface should be cleaned and painted only....no gaskets no sealer!!!...DO NOT USE SEALER!!!!
actually used pipe clamps with the 2 pcs attached to regular pipe for clamping and used the track rail to pull on bottom of housing but it helped...broke 2x4s and had to use 4x4 across bottom of housing....those 2 dowel pins are located at 11 oclock and 5 oclock

Also important....it seemed to be binding at top then...so i got curious to see if steering lever would move...moved it and housing got looser...found my shims really loose,,.,.put them back in tite again and then moved handle again and blamed housing just fell loose...so the lever shaft itself was binding in the bushing in the housing...suspect gonna either need cleaned up or perhaps Lavoy has new bushings for that...actually has a pop out circle like for freeze plugs in the housing for that bushing

[dtoots1]

LAVOY and ALL

Well....sure aint no clean job.....now the brake drum/clutch is literally rusted to the shaft,....cannot pry much against housing nor hammer to any extent...now is wonder can i get bearing off and pull the shaft and drum as 1 piece and them be able to pound shaft out of the drum....i dont think that i dare use heat on this around the flat splines area....figure it will surely warp the blamed thing and then no good..

shaft and gear looks like would come off fairly easy,...but not sure on the bearing as no way to grab and pull on it....can i use punch and push shaft thru enough to get bearing off and carefully catch the gear and key??....looks like the heavy wire ring has already popped off from my banging around on the thing....found it on floor..

.then just ease the shaft and drum out of final?

[gus]

Got a chuckle out of your last line......

"Ease the shaft out...."

Given the project so far, I'm surprised to hear the word "ease"

[dtoots1]

Well that battle is finally over.....really simple once ya figure it out!! wood wedges...NO GO...plastic wedges NO GO...behind drum..
thought a bit longer took a break...smoked a cig....couple of em....laid final down got chains and bolts thru pressure plate holes crossed em and stuck my hydraulic jack on splined end.....jacked a bit and.....BROKE dam cheap chain....found old one...smaller links and rusted bad...but stronger a bit...hooker them up...jacked a bit and she comes loose....unfasten and blamed thing pops back down...yank and pull and no go...so back to the jack and socket over splined and jack dam thing off entirely.....and when off all splines nice and shiny wet with pb blaster...when dam thing stuck it all looked dry

really gonna have to,pull that right steering too!! hope dam fools didnt put red perma tex on that housing..if they even did anything to that side

Who knows anything about the rocker that shifts the brake into action when pull steering lever??? does the bottom section have a small bolt in it??
mine looks like it does and is broken off...front half can actually hang under the rod...?? some kind of adjustment bolt ..maybe??

[dtoots1]

well guys,

now i find that i had to beat the throwout carrier out of the ball rocker w/the slot in it.....the locking bolt was broken off but secondary pin was in its slot....pb blaster and tapping did not do a blamed thing....I literally had to take my 12 inch handled sledge hammer to it with a 4x4 block to even get it to move and continue pounding it with it the rest of the way.......also the carrier tube for that bearing carrier and my donor bearing carrier seem to be not wanting to go on the tube carrier as they both are way too tight for the thing to slide easily...so what gives....am i gonna have to use cylinder hone on the carrier itself???????

also will definitly NEED that rocker for the brake engagment....appears they break right where the slot key groove is cut into the rocker...checked right steering gear....fortunately that one is still whole and it does look a lot better inside...may well have been done before....can see brake lining is quite thick in thereand drum shiney

[dtoots1]

well folks,

dont see any comments yet...

Now i got to take a look at the hydraulic pump...cleaned up and she looks to be an hydreco pump...oil in reservoir appears to be regular motor oil...tho seems a bit thicker than 30 wt.? cannot get full numbers on it..

am having a bit of trouble checking out the carrier tube and carrier for throw out bearing....seems to be very tight..when i disassembled it off the carrier tube to i actually had to take the cam assembly..that has the 3 balls behind it, off and keep jamming it outward to get it off...the carrier itself, was jammed into the cam so hard that it literally had to take my 12 inch sledge to it with a socket and wood block to get the blamed thing out of carrier as well....my question is...do i take a hone to the carrier for just a bit to get that easy slide??? my donor carrier fits the same darned way...am assuming that oddball carrier tube seems to be problem??? also the rocker arm that has the timing bolt for the brake actuator is broken in 2 pieces as well as the cap screw/bolt (allen head bolt) is broken as well...right steering one is fine..that piece being broken appears to have been the whole problem with the left steering not functioning....

once i get these straightened out and get my parts i should be ready to try to assemble

[Lavoy]

Neither should be that tight. Polish the tube, and the inside of the carrier, that should do it. If not, I would guess the tube is damaged.
Lavoy