jd420 pics

[dtoots1]

Well to continue....
In order to get the clutch shaft out....the long push rod for the throw-out bearing MUST be disconnected in order to turn the sleeve shaft for clearance... the rod lever on the sleeve has to line up with the hollow at side of housing so that the bushing end of sleeve clears the left housing..i literally had to take my sawsall to the pin connecting the lever and rod....blamed thing was rusted so bad it would not budge, i first unbolted that cage that pushes the throwout bearing so that end was loose....

Anyhow the dang this is out and can now be cleaned up....once i get new return spring for it...and the throwout bearing return spring as well...looks good enough to clean and reuse.

And so that is what i did to get blamed thing out.....nice air hammer might have been handy.

[Jim B]

You got it, that is what counts. Sit back, have a drink of your favorite beverage and get ready for the next step.

[dtoots1]

Well Folks,
Was taking a look at my tracks and adjusters....rear outside measures 58 inches front measures 57.5inches...
3 of my adjusters from rear bracket to spring locknut measure 16.5 inches and left inside adjuster spring to locknut measures 15.5 inches.....so that seems to be throwing off the measurements...

Believe books calls for all adjusters to measure same distance from locknut to front bracket...so can have slack in both tracks be same...looks like am gonna have to have a 1 inch difference in that one...the spring adjuster nut seems to be an odd size something over 1 7/8 so will leave that alone....also believe will have to have track setting on floor to get to my slack measure as lower track also sags...will set it best i can and recheck after floored out...

Got left outside adjuster back in after removal of broken adjuster.
Really dont want to take and adjust track to axles yet....most of those bolts are really pitted and weak...surely will break the dang things off and then be s.o.l....will see after what will really need done.

I dont think that i am going to paint the blamed thing...other than the engine and center housing, since really need to take it apart to paint behind and thru every thing in way of each other....sure aint going to make it run better

Gotta get my parts on order...still too wet and cool to do any painting or sanding for that matter...know fuel tank needs good cleaning and prepping and console....original was actually broken off at bottom but have another for it..

enough

[dtoots1]

Well folks just thought i would throw this at ya.....I have set of grouser pads on extra track and am considering putting the blamed things on this loader....since gotta jerk these things apart to work on my steering clutch.

I sure aint agonna be loading dump trucks and moving lotsa dirt around with this old booger....tho i figure to move some snow and probably do some leveling in mostly gravel parking lots.....I know loaders will tear up rollers quicker with the grousers but....no reverser in the little doll so no quick back and forth to amount to much.

Bunch of loose street pads so most bolts be boogered and probably break trying to tighten and loose shoes are not nice.

Only other criteria that might make difference is flat bed truck deck is metal and which shoes will adhere better....street or grouser...for transport

[Lavoy]

Grouser pads are hard on the rest of the undercarriage, drivetrain etc. Best example I have is stomp a shovel in the ground til it is all the way in. Then pull on the handle or try and twist it, same thing as a crawler with grouser when you are trying to turn. Loader just adds another 3000 lbs plus the weight of the dirt in the bucket to the equation vs a dozer.
Lavoy

[sonny]

For loader use use ONLY street pads! You need to be able to skid easy PLUS you need some slip to let the hydraulics work when filling the bucket! Tall bars are murder on undercarriages and add a loader would be major problem steering. A friend of mine found out that the hard way and had to go back to loader pads after he destroyed his steering clutches!
Your tractor do as you like!

[dtoots1]

Well, SHUCKS...I do know the blamed bucket tis a heavy booger..plus bars etc/hydraulics...so ok..down with that.

[gus]

I bought a loader with cleats. Got it cheap too.

Why? Broken transmission case. Enough said...

Just stopped to think about that. First crawler I bought also had a loader and cleats...... And a broken transmission case......

[sonny]

Too much traction is worse than not enough!! LOL!! I know it sounds crazy BUT that is the way it works on crawler loaders! --- all I ever been around had the low bar type on them. I also have a IH 250c with 4-1 bucket on it and it also has low bar tracks on it! I figure they had a good reason for doing that!

[dtoots1]

Well Gents,
Bear in mind, remember i said...i sure aint got NO plans of loading dumps truck and moving dirt nor gravel to ANY extent....will be more of the snow crap we get around hereabouts....tho occasionaly i may move some gravel to fill low spots in parking (REPO) lots....probably more like pushing snow than loading blamed stuff...nevertheless probably aint gonna happen cause..

MY a.. aint big enough (150lb) to swing danged sledge and break that dam master pin loose.....got it moved where it is flush....used 4x4 drilled hole for drift to line up ....but that is as far as i can get it to move....red hot all around the pin several times now....cannot tell if is jamming in secondary link hole behind or not....mayhaps have to heat that one also...

Sure did NOT have that kind of problem when i took master out of my 440

[B Town]

Have you braced the backside of the chain to prevent a shock absorbing movement??

[gus]

If the outside is flush, it probably is the second side catching the wear ridge. You should be able to feel the wear area.

Can you tap it back out a little and get a strip of emery cloth around it to clean it up?

[Jim B]

I think he is trying to get it out to split the track, not putting it together.

[sonny]

are you going the right direction, and when you heated it up did you douse it with USED motor oil??? That has gotten many parts loose for me! GOTTA be USED oil! LOL! Try it a couple times and see if that will help you. Heat, oil, heat, beat, repeat!

[smitty906]

When I split my track for a final rebuild , we put the master link at like one oclock on sprocket
and I cut a piece of 2" black pipe had laying around it fit over master link boss and wedged against final housing .
Pin fell out with a couple smacks