jd420 pics

[Lavoy]

Should have the parts.
The coupling should not come apart that hard, but I would use a pulley/bearing puller and keep pressure on it while heating the coupling.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

Well now....JOY....had to get more acetylene....got blamed thing red hot 3/4 of way back towards tranny...and still DID NOT pop off with tension on from my come along...torched it from tranny end and by time i got torch put up and to the front...had to hammer a bit and moved to back and some more hammer....popped clean out....However...the shaft and sleeve stayed together and came off the tranny shaft....no pin and obviously not even set up to line up properly on spline to be able to have pin in....also no sign whatsover of spring in the sleeve and obviously no front pin either...

NOw more cleanup...and will probably address that left steering crap...sure do hope that loader crap aint in way of getting that final off...gotta get old girl up in air a bit so can break track apart...obviously 4 dam adjusters to get cleaned and loosened too.....i think both tracks are actually too tight as well.

Anyone know if i can take them side panels off that the engine mounts to? or can tranny shift enough to give me hard time as they do mount to tranny also...maybe once i get up in air to take left steering apart??
leastways i did get to pull her out and get power washed in sunlight today

[dtoots1]

Lavoy and All,

wELL, GOOD new is...got her up in the air...left right track down on 4x4 blocking left track clear....put my comealong on track pull a bit and she locks down both forward and back....so i raise right track off blocks...get other comealong on that track.....BOTH TRACKS move at same time...no engine and out of gear??? my 440 track moved 1 side easy...so what gives here????..Why both tracks turn same time??

Found chain hole cut out of loader bucket and slid propeller shaft thru and sleeve nicely caught on edge of hole...slam it...pull... several slams and sleeve finally comes off...needs clean inside splines of sleeve...HOW????

Found master pin on left track...tapped on retainer clip and falls apart ...rusted thru...NOW i gotta get 1 1/2 open end to adjust all 4 track adjusters to get track loose course my set only goes to 1.25in.

Once get track out of way can get to left steering finals and see what the H...going on in there...something not connected to handle inside...bytheway...did get the brake adjustment screw..nut slot? loose and turned out...probably had over half inch of thread showing

Any answers?????

Dtoots1

[Jim B]

It should move both tracks when you turn one track, unless you disengage a steering clutch. The crawler doesn't have the pinion and axle gears found in a differential. If it did have differential gears, travel would stop when a steering clutch lever was pulled, as the differential gears let power go to the wheel with the least traction. The drive shafts that go to the steering clutches mate into the splines in the hub which is riveted to the ring gear, a true posi-traction setup.

Do you know anyone with a blast cabinet for small parts? they might be able to clean the coupling. I would be using an assortment of small files and emery cloth to remove rust. Don't get carried away and file the splines away.

You may want two 1-1/2 wrenches. One should be a crowfoot or have a 45 degree head. My regular combination 1-1/2" wrenches were long enough I couldn't get much swing on them. I have a couple 1-1/2" crowfoot wrenches I generally used. Lavoy likely knows for sure, but I think JD had crowfoot wrenches as tools for them, back in the day.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

If it had a differential, both tracks would still move. Just one would move forward and the other backwards when you moved one manually.

When you steered, with brake only and no steering clutch, one track stops and the other speeds up. Disconcerting. I had a Terratrac like that.

Stan

[dtoots1]

Well ffolks hArbor freight had couple sets of wrenchs... 1 regular and 1 with 45 and 60 degree offset....looks like my baby deere has better steel than the offset wrenchs.......the spring adjustment nut is neither 1 7/8th nor 2 in....tho 1 7/8 fits on 1 side only and boogers are really PIA to move.....used fire wrench a bit on the lock nut and some on the adjuster nut....now the smaller side cannot move further and the 2 in does not fit properly...rounds corner off....also did not want to get these adjuster nuts red hot cause springs dont like heat......tho i do notice...this particular spring is already broken. So i will try getting adjuster nut red hot and see what progresses....means i have to take blamed thing clear off and probably hafta loosen the other side of track as well before hand

Forgot my point....the wrench ...flat literally is soft enough to have a divot in it from the 1 7/8 adjuster nut...pittsburgh wrenchset offset..says guarenteed so maybe take em back tomorrow and get another just like em....

Also tracks need to be aligned as they measure 57 in to 58 wide....and i suppose lineup is actually measure from the axle distances from some point,,,such as loader frame assembly?...neither axle measures same distance from track mounting brackets...Also the mounting bracket bolts appear to be rusted badly and can literally see where rust has thinned the blamed bolt shaft ....so trouble ahead..

WHO knows what the proper size wrench is used on the spring adjusting nuts???? and what size is it.

HF doesnt have crowfoots 1 1/2 and bigger....leastways not on shelfs

Well folks give a holler


dtoots1

[tldec50]

1 15/16 inch wrench should fit the one just smaller than 2 inches.I have not found any crow feet that will not stretch under a lot of torque.

[dtoots1]

My thoughts exactly...but i aint seeing any wrenches that size at harbor..china...probly shoulda got metric set

[dtoots1]

LAVOY and others....


Have a chance to get and early 420 center housing....however feller says that starter housing is different....has the old cone shaped allen head center pin w/locknut and my center housing has the 2 stud starter mount.. Am concerned as to whether that will interchange with the newer model that i have and reach the flywheel????....MY BRAKE and CLUTCH rods are really locked tight with all the critter crap rusted solid....his starter is actually junk and does not function.....mayhaps change nose cone on it to my starter that i had rebuilt?????

Anyone know for sure????

NEED ANSWERS

[Lavoy]

Starter distance is the same, but it will be lacking some critical mounting holes of the later center section and so will not work.
Lavoy

[dtoots1]

well crap....he does have a spring for the track adjuster so will probably get that from him..

So am working on getting the broken spring out....cut several section out so can get ahold of shaft of bolt....i assume the bolt itself has to slide clean out and that the spring adjuster nut must be removed in order to do that???? and that means it has to come out towards the rear of the machine???

that spring adjuster nut is the problem...nothing regular fits the blamed thing..can get small pipe wrench on it is all...

JUST NEED TO KNOW IF BLAMED THING HAS TO COME OFF TO GET APART AND REPLACE SPRING???? have tourch red to get it red hot...

[Jim B]

If his adjuster spring and rod is still assembled check the spring compressed length and the length of the rod compared to yours. Get the whole thing and install it, that way you only need to free up the idler adjusting nuts.

[dtoots1]

Well it looks like am gonna have to either cut rest of spring loose to see what kind of boss is inside the spring and heat both sides of the spring adjuster nut ...does not seem to get hot enough from one side only...i really don't want to cut the danged bolt to get it out...that torch certainly ought to get the adjuster nut hot enough...i cut 3 coils of spring out and have pipe wrench on smooth part of the long bolt to hold...i think the p.o. cranked the adjuster past the threads and jammed it as well as the rust involved...what a pain in a...

Gonna have to check see if he actually has spring assembly...has set of 2..50$



EDIT...oops believe i got it now...unit should slide forward after adjuster nuts out of way!!!

[dtoots1]

Well folks believe it or not...the answer is that this booger is now coming apart!!
Thanks to one of Lavoys old posts i got clearer understanding of how these come apart....from drivers seat the brake pedal must come off....that solid rod goes clear thru to the clutch pedal....this has to be driven to the left and should come clean out...assume the clutch sleeve is driven to the right as mine must come out to get the new return spring back on that sleeve....

I torched the sleeve a couple times, which did not appear to help, though it may well have....next i drilled a small hole thru the sleeve itself down to solid rod and lubricated..pb blaster...as well as both ends of the sleeve...cannot use the pedals for leverage...do not break....so i used a small 8 inch pipe wrench on the solid rod...along with a 5 foot pipe put my 150 lb ..a@# on the thing and broke it loose....turned it around where the pedal came forward twice....more pb blaster overnite.....and this morning..get out my harbor freight dead blow..small one cause dont have the larger one....and moved that sucker ...now dont forget i did chew up the shaft a bit..so i got strip of rough emery cloth and sanded that down a bit to smooth out some and remove any rust that would reach...i now have to get some kind of drift pin to drive thru the sleeve and out....
Next will be the sleeve ,mechanism itself....hopefully that will move easier...just the journal end has to move out..
i hope to use the small hole for a zerk fitting w/tubing to reach thru the hole on the right side of the housing along with some judicious grooves in the solid shaft for grease travel in the sleeve area...am wondering if the cheap harbor freight tap and die set has a die for the shaft diameter with the larger thread cut...not sure i want the end for the clutch pedal threaded though that mite not really matter...it would be a place for grease travel...will see what i got.

[Lavoy]

All your greasing is overkill. Clean the shaft up, clean up the inside of the clutch tube, antiseize on reassembly and you will be fine.
Lavoy