MC grinding noise

[Ralph]

Hi, I am new here...just got a 1949 MC. Why I bought it I don't know but having fun working on it. Been doing normal maintenance all fluids and filters, checking for loose bolts, replacing track pad bolts that were loose. Runs good, starts right up no smoke, goes in to gear well and jumps when I release clutch. Steering and breaking is good left and right.

There is a grinding noise when in neutral and clutch is engaged, no pressure on pedal.
Seller told me it has always made the noise. A friend of mine said could be just the gears spinning since they are flat faced?. I am thinking throw-out bearing, arm or clutch is
bad.
Is the noise normal? Also how do you get grease in to the rollers, button grease fitting?
I paid $3,800 for it, not sure good or bad deal? Let me know your thoughts.
Tried to attach image but could not?

Any advise would really be appreciated.

How do I add? I am in western Chicago suburbs also have a JD 3720, JD1025R, Case 1845C

[Lavoy]

If it quits when the clutch pedal is pushed in, that is normally the input shaft bearing that is shot, but could be other bearing/s in the trans as well.
Lavoy

[Ralph]

Yes it quits when clutch pushed in. I will check the procedure to repair.
Thank you.

[Lavoy]

I would pull the trans top cover first and see if you see or can feel any other bad bearings or gears. If so, only way to fix is complete tear down til you only have the trans case left, then rebuild the trans.
Lavoy

[Ralph]

Sorry to hear that I might have to rebuild the trans.
I will pull the cover next as you suggested. I did change the trans oil and while empty I put in
a pick up magnet and 4 to 5 inches in there was no metal at all.

[Ralph]

Just pulled the trans cover... gears look very good and the front roller bearing on the input shaft looks good from what I can see.
When I step on clutch I can hand spin the input drive shaft. I can feel and hear a bad spot.
Everything is tight, what should I be looking for?
I am thinking of running it and maybe the bad spot I am feeling will smooth out if it is just
one or two rollers that are rough or stuck?? I believe the crawler sat too long and could have caused a bad spot on the bearing.
The noise sounds like it is coming from the tunnel side?

Any advise?

[Lavoy]

You can't really "see" the front bearing enough from the top to get a good idea of condition. A hardened roller in a bearing never smooths out. Run it and the bearing will fail, or whatever else is feeling rough will fail.
Lavoy

[gus]

Fixing before it breaks is usually a lot cheaper than after. Depends on how many other parts it takes with it when it breaks.

One other thing. Fixing it it the shop is much easier than in the field. It usually breaks at the worst possible time and place.

[Ralph]

I agree fix before more problems. I am thinking this will be a winter project.
Thanks.

[bbart]

Lots of good info. But no response yet to the question, ". . . Also how do you get grease in to the rollers, button grease fitting?"

I'm thinking there must be a special attachment for my grease gun. I think my old MC would sure appreciate some lube in the three rollers and front idler. Thanks for any ideas on this conundrum.

Bbart 98042

[Jim B]

Welcome to the Boards, bbart.

Did you ask the question, or are you looking for an answer to where Ralph asked that? It was kind of buried in Ralph's post and appears it was overlooked in previous replies.

Either way, you need a button head grease coupler to use with your grease gun. Track rollers and idlers should be greased with a low-pressure grease gun. If you use a regular gun you need to stop pumping when resistance is felt, or you will blow the roll/idler seals. I believe Lavoy has posted, in the past, that he has them (coupler, gun, or both) for sale. You can send him an email (postmaster@jdcrawlers.com) or call him at 701-361-1006 during CST business hours to purchase items. I have one for occasional use, that has a regular zerk in the hole a grease gun hose would thread in so I can use it with my regular grease gun coupler.