1010 steering

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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John1010c
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:59 pm

1010 steering

Post by John1010c » Sun Aug 13, 2023 7:41 am

I have a 1010 that will not steer unless you pull the levers all the way back. I'm assuming it's using the brake to steer. I have adjusted it several times exactly how the book says and have tweaked the adjustments just to see if it made any difference but it doesn't. Another thing to point out is the steering control rod when it is just touching the clutch fingers is almost maxed out ( unscrewed ) and the steering brake set screw is nearly screwed in all the way.
Some history on this machine is I did a complete teardown and outfitted it with new throw out bearing, new pressure plate, pilot bearing and steering disc ( aftermarket) the composite disc were too thick so I plained them down to probably the higher side of tolerance. It was rough on the blades but seemed to get the job done and I was able to adjust the clutch fingers and use the correct number of steel plates and composite disc . I did purchase the clutch fingers adjustment tool also. Could my disc pack be too thick still ?
Another theory I came up with is could I have inadvertently got the clutch fork shafts mixed up ? They do have separate parts numbers in the book. A right side and left. Right T14000T, left T14001T. If you have both adjustment covers off and line up both clutch arms the same and looking down inside housing it appears that the set screw that holds the fork to that shaft will be ( in my case ) slightly pointing towards the other side and vise versa on the other side. If I'm wrong the screw would be ever so slightly pointing outward on their respective sides. That little bit could be causing me to not have enough adjustment up top.
Your thoughts or solutions would greatly be appreciated.

original possum
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 258
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:34 pm
Location: Shiner, texas

Re: 1010 steering

Post by original possum » Tue Aug 15, 2023 9:04 am

If it really steers then either the clutches are disengaging as they should or are slipping, which is unlikely. The adjuster should be "nearly bottomed out" with a new clutch pack. If the adjusting bolt (with the 3/4" head) is bottomed out then either the brakes are shot or you left out a part. The parts book I checked has only one number for clutch fork, T14002T.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

Mozy
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2023 7:14 am
Location: Fairmont, Wv

Re: 1010 steering

Post by Mozy » Tue Aug 15, 2023 10:30 am

It's been a while since I rebuilt mine but I'll share few things I remember. First, You have to be certain that you've put in the right amount of fibers and steel discs. There was a change in the drum part way through the years. The newer style took one less metal disc if I recall because it used the back of the drum as the first disc. The drums will have the number of each stamped on the back of the drum. If you have the right amount, they will fill the drum to the rim and it will be tricky to keep the discs from shifting while adding the pressure plate. Second, You have to be certain that you have the pressure plate set right according to the gauge. I set mine up wrong the first time with the guage because I was sitting it on the wrong spot unknowingly. My manual is a reprint and the pictures were near impossible to tell where to put it. If you have these two things right, the biggest battle is won. If you don't have it right, you will not be able to adjust your way to success. Third, the vertical clutch shaft has a dimple where the set screw engages it and I don't think things will physically work if you had them on the wrong side. If you have a manual, there should be pictures that you can compare. I had the same train of thought when trying to figure mine out after setting up the pressure plate wrong. I had completely disassembled my clutch housing because everything was froze up. Fourth, Your brakes are not steering the dozer. If the clutches are disengaged, the brakes aren't strong enough to overcome them. As part of the adjustment process you need to back off the brakes or disconnect them to set up the clutch. At this point, you can see if it will steer without the brake hooked up. My clutch control rods were longer than I thought they should be when I was done but I'm not sure if my dozer has the correct ones. The design was changed somewhere along the years and my vin is gone so I don't know for sure what I have. Just make sure you follow the manual instructions exactly and if you have the discs and pressure plate set right, it should work. One mistake and it will likely not work right Best of luck.
Early John Deere 1010c gas with reverser.

John1010c
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:59 pm

Re: 1010 steering

Post by John1010c » Tue Aug 15, 2023 8:02 pm

Thank you for your insight

John1010c
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2023 4:59 pm

Re: 1010 steering

Post by John1010c » Tue Aug 15, 2023 8:06 pm

Possum, what 3/4" bolt are you talking about ? The brake band bolt ?

original possum
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 258
Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:34 pm
Location: Shiner, texas

Re: 1010 steering

Post by original possum » Wed Aug 16, 2023 11:11 am

Yes
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way

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