How far down should I go?

Stretch · Post by **Stretch** » Fri Mar 02, 2007 8:10 pm

I bought a 2010C diesel. Motor runs great, xmission seems good, needs L steer brake and possibly clutch, needs undercarriage, and a little TLC. With that being said, how far down should I take this before I put alot of money in the undercarriage?
I plan to work this around the farm and on some timber land that I have. I would like it to be somewhat dependable and retain the originality.

Stretch

Jimmy in NC · Post by **Jimmy in NC** » Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:34 am

How much is a little work??

You can either fix just the steering brake right now and run the under carriage to destruction and deal with it then or you can fix it now and never worry about it.

The lil 420c that I'm playing with needs some under carriage work but will probably only see an honest 35-40 hrs of good use a year. The undercarriage on it will be run to total destruction. It's totally a preference thing.

I will say though in my experience.. you go into it a little now, you'll put it back together. A little further next time, back together. Each time a little deeper. At least that's how this one is...

Jimmy in NC

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:39 am

Hi Stretch-

I have a 2010 crawler loader with diesel that sounds like it is in a similar condition as yours.

I think that the condition of your sprockets is a big factor on when you time your undercarriage rebuild. What I have found out is that new or NOS JD sprockets are obselete, and Berco replacement sprockets or even weld-on rims are not available for the 2010 (used parts machine sprockets only), so if your current sprockets are still in good shape I would consider saving them now from use to destruction and maybe rebuilding the undercarriage to take advantage of the good sprockets.

Whether you have the early or late-bushing sprockets will also be a factor (the late sprockets are directly compatible with 350 tracks; the early ones will only take the early 2010 pins and bushings which I understand are getting harder to find).

Mine are pretty worn early-bushing sprockets with worn rails and pads so I have pretty much decided to run them to destruction.

Keep in mind that I am just learning about this as you are so if someone has better information I would like to hear it.

hunter41mag · Post by **hunter41mag** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:47 am

One thing to remember is that the more worn sprokets, pins and rails are will lead to more frequent problems with the tracks coming off. And this will more than likely happen at the worst spot and time.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:54 pm

hunter41mag wrote:One thing to remember is that the more worn sprokets, pins and rails are will lead to more frequent problems with the tracks coming off. And this will more than likely happen at the worst spot and time.

I unfortunately know that as well.....my machine is currently down due to a thrown right track. It happened on a slope in soft ground which was subsequently iced over and rained on, thus sinking the machine further into the ground. I had to wait until the ground thawed just to pull the track from the mud.

I will post up pics in "Show and Tell" once I have the sequence finished.

Stretch · Post by **Stretch** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:03 pm

I was told that the weld on sprocket rings are available. This was told to me by the local construction dealer. Of course he may be wrong, I don't know. He gave me a price of $ 264.00 for both.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:52 pm

The weld on sprocket rings I think he is referring to are the weld on 350 rims, they do not fit a 2010.
Lavoy

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