JD 440 STEERING CLUTCH DISK

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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ironyetty
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JD 440 STEERING CLUTCH DISK

Post by ironyetty » Sat Apr 28, 2007 7:37 am

Has anyone used the metal to metal steering clutchs, I have seen the metal plates that I am guessing replace the fibers. Just curious as to whether or not the steel to steel contact works better, doesn't seem to make since to me?

Thanks in advance,
Ironyetty

Howard Yoder
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Post by Howard Yoder » Mon Apr 30, 2007 2:01 pm

That isn't possible but then I have been wrong before.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Apr 30, 2007 2:31 pm

Do you mean the metallic replacement discs? I have put a couple of sets in, one in a 1010, and 2-420s. I think they are at least double the price of fiber discs now and maybe more. Main benefit I can see is they will not "grow" if they absorb moisture, and may not be as prone to sticking in high humidity areas.
They seem to me to have quite a bit more drag than fiber, and I adjust the brake to actuate later when I install them to alleviate this some.
Lavoy

olrobk

Post by olrobk » Tue May 01, 2007 8:18 pm

Lavoy, what do you mean by "drag"?
You can hear them or feel them dragging as you operate the machine?
I would think more drag would create more heat, as with so-called heavy duty or hi-performance disc brake pads. The problem is: the pads are so tough, they burnish the rotors, which leads to all kinds of noise and heat long before the pads wear out. Essentially they ruin the rotors. =Rob

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Post by Lavoy » Tue May 01, 2007 9:08 pm

This is highly unscientific, but see if it makes sense. It appears to me that they have enough more surface friction than the regular fiber discs that if they are adjusted the same way, the crawler labors badly trying to turn. In my experience, it is necessary to run less brake so that the pressure plate moves farther out to reduce as much as possible the surface pressure on the discs. The one 420 loader I installed them in ended up needing the brake bands replaced 4 times due to breakage of the band. After pulling the finals for the 4th time, I backed the brake off, and from that point on, had no more problems. I feel that the earlier problems were due to the increased load placed on the brake band because the clutches were just not willing to let up under factory adjustment specs. As I said, this is not a very scientific answer, but best I can give. I also think that your analogy is probably applicable as well. I think if adjusted accordingly, and run sensibly, they will not pose a problem. In a situation where adjustment is not carefully maintained, I think there will be problems as least as far as functionality.
Lavoy

olrobk

Post by olrobk » Wed May 02, 2007 4:57 am

Gosh Lavoy, you can't beat experience. Or, put another way, who needs the science when you have the experience?
I'm convinced.
I guess there was no burning of the pressure plate and sandwich discs?
I wouldn't think you'd be able to see blue burn or burnishing unless you disassembled the clutch packs. It's hard to believe conditions were so tough, you had BROKEN brake bands. So how about installing sintered steel brake band material? Sounds like you'd have lifetime steering.
We used to put sintered steel clutches in heavy trucks 40 years ago. I don't know if there's better material now. The hi-perf brake pads I referred to are some kind of ceramic material. I'll never install another set. Waaaaay too tough on the steel. Thank you, Rob

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Post by Lavoy » Wed May 02, 2007 8:09 am

ROb,
My brake bands already have a tougher material than OEM, they have metallic particles in them so they grab better than OEM as well.
Keep in mind that the 420 that was breaking them was a loader, fresh rebuild on the engine, and was being worked to death when they let go.
Lavoy

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