fuel line

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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bent
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 113
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:05 am
Location: Saskatchewan

fuel line

Post by bent » Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:58 am

Hello to all, been a while since I have posted, been reading lots though, some nice work being done, anyway, I have got back to work on my 440 IC. I sent the carb away to be rebuilt and re-installed, will only run with the choke on. Before I rip the carb apart and void any warranty I might have, I want to first eliminate everything else. I have had the tank cleaned and lined and have a new sediment bowl. The old fuel line was no good and I replaced in with, what I suspect might be too small of a line, so my question is, what is an acceptable replacement for the fuel line.

Thanks in advance

Brent

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Pammark
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 195
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:04 pm
Location: Marysville, Ohio

Carb problems

Post by Pammark » Thu Jun 14, 2007 11:26 am

It doesn't take much of a fuel flow to run an engine. Most only have a 1/4" line. First loosen the fuel line entering the carb a little to see if any drips appear. There might be an air lock. One can also remove the fuel line at the carb and it should piss a nice stream of fuel.

Remove the air input from the aircleaner just to make sure the problem is not a reduced air supply.

If you have a good fuel flow, then tap the side of the carb bowl with a hammer to unjar the float. I have seen them hangup inside the carb. There must be a main fuel jet thumb-screw either under the carb or on top of the fuel bowl. Not the one on the side of the carb near the throttle butterfly, this is the idle mixture adjustment. Screw in the main jet finger tight until it bottoms out. Screw out 1 1/2 turns and try the engine. Normaly this is good enough to get them started. Then adjust the main jet while the engine is running to the best performance.


If this still fails, then there must be dirt in the carb and you have to open and blow it out with an air compressor.


You might also check to see if the gasket between the carb and manifold is OK and not leaking and the junction between the manifold and head. These are spots for air leakage which delutes the fuel mixture.


Mark
JD 2010 Crawler with Loader

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Tigerhaze
350 crawler
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Post by Tigerhaze » Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:59 pm

I have also read threads that talk about an inlet filter within the fuel tank that commonly gets clogged- I thought it was on older JD crawlers but I can't remember which crawler. Just an idea.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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Stan Disbrow
350 crawler
350 crawler
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:04 am

Hi,

Actually, that filter is within the carb, not the fuel tank. The fitting to which the fuel line attaches at the carb has a screen on it that inserts into the carb body.

Often times, when the carb is rebuilt this filter gets overlooked and the screen is easily plugged with sediment that makes it past the fuel bowl/screen on the fuel tank.

It's one of those 'gotchas'.

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

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JD440ICD2006
350 crawler
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Post by JD440ICD2006 » Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:38 am

If you paid to have that carb rebuilt, start with the ones that rebuilt it. Ask them if they ran the carb on an engine prior to shipping it to you, and find out what kind of engine and the stated results.
The two main culprits in these old carbs is stopped up passage ways and worn parts that allow air leaks. If they rebuilt it for profit, they should have covered both of these, and your carb should be working better than with full choke.
If they did not clean all internal passages properly, and/or did not replace any worn bushings like around the throttle arm and choke arm, that is likely your problem. They should have also checked both ends for flatness and shaved them down if they were not flat. This can be the source of air leaks as these ends tend to curl over time.
My guess is it is an air leak. What is happening is you are having to restrict the air more to get the engine to run.
I would get them to agree to pay shipping back and to fix it for free.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)

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