Track Jack

[Jimmy in NC]

I don't know if that's the proper name but was wondering what others have used in the past. Having just put one track back together with out proper tools I won't do the next one the same way. I know the tool exists for tanks etc. Any thoughts on where to buy one pretty reasonably or has anyone made one? I'd buy a tank one but am not sure if it would work on 420 chains.

Here are a few links of ones I've found. I think these would work but don't know for sure... just looking for other opinions.

http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Colem ... uct/428101

http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Colem ... uct/232101

Jimmy

[Howard Yoder]

that sure would beat a chain and load binder if you get one and it works let us know

[Lavoy]

Unless you have snow pads, they really won't work anyway, plus to use one, you will need to be putting it on the track while it is flat. This means you will have to be putting the track back together with the master link on top in the center, and this will be difficult even with the tool.
Only tool you might need to put track together is a long tapered punch. Always split the track with the master pin at about 8" or so off the ground when it is on the sprocket. Make sure to have enough slack in the track, and when you go back together, the sprocket holds the top portion of the track for you, and all you need to do is lift the bottom portion which will only be a couple of links, and put in the master pin. If you want, you can put a tapered punch in from the other direction and use it to help center the holes as you put in the master pin.
Lavoy

[Jimmy in NC]

Lavoy-

That's what I was wondering about. Didn't know if I could grab those chains or not. Last one I did put it together with a long punch after I got it close enough, but it was in the center of the top side. I think the manual said to do it on the front idler which I tried first. Turned into a long evening in a hurry. Turns out that chain (for those that don't know my chains don't match) after I got the whole side back together is almost tight enough w/o any adjustment on the new tensioners. I guess the last owner wasn't shooting me a line saying he'd just had them re-pinned and bushed.

It looked worn but to clarify for those that didn't see some before pics the steering clutch housing was busted, cross shaft caps weren't tight to the under carriage, among other issues. With all of that back in place (took a 20 ton bottle jack to get the cross shafts moved back apart) it tightned things up nicely.

Will try to take pictures of it tomorrow if I get time to run to the shop before running out of town for another week.

Jimmy

[PeterFroehlich]

Instead of a tapered punch, I drive a birch dowel in first, and drive it out with the master pin. You can grind the dowel down to any taper you need. It seems to line up the links better. It may sound wacky, but works for me.

[tomcat4144]

if you split the track in front of the idler and you have the tracks slacked off, its very easy to put back together. i did use a come-a-long hooked on to the blade to pull up the slack, just hook on to the track a foot or so behind the front idler wheel so you have enough slack for it to hang over the idler. i was able to lift the bottom of the track by hand and insert pin.