How much should the tracks be loosened before removing?? I did a search but could not find the information. How much sag before there is no spring tension?
When reinstalling, how much sag? I don't have a manual yet. Sorry if this is an old subject.
Gus
Removing tracks
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DiggerLarry
- 440 crawler
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Gus,
On a five roller - 1/2 to 3/4 in. of sag on each side of the top roller.
4 roller - 1 1/2 in of sag.
3 roller - 1 inch of sag.
To remove them I'll offer a silly answer - As much as needed. You want to get the tension off the idler and that's maybe a 2-3 in sag? It would depend on how many rollers are on the track. I've never really checked the sag. Just the weight of the track will keep some pressure on the idler.
On a five roller - 1/2 to 3/4 in. of sag on each side of the top roller.
4 roller - 1 1/2 in of sag.
3 roller - 1 inch of sag.
To remove them I'll offer a silly answer - As much as needed. You want to get the tension off the idler and that's maybe a 2-3 in sag? It would depend on how many rollers are on the track. I've never really checked the sag. Just the weight of the track will keep some pressure on the idler.
I would leave the tension alone and just take it apart. Break it at the top of the sprocket so you only have to worry about one side flopping around. Use a come-along to rejoin the tracks.
On a larger machine or one with hydraulic tensioners it is wise to loosen the track till you have a couple inches of sag beforehand. You may not be able to get heavier tracks together again if not very loose, and/or hydraulic tensioners are most easily retracted by standing on the track while it's still on (in other words, loosen it while you still can).
On a larger machine or one with hydraulic tensioners it is wise to loosen the track till you have a couple inches of sag beforehand. You may not be able to get heavier tracks together again if not very loose, and/or hydraulic tensioners are most easily retracted by standing on the track while it's still on (in other words, loosen it while you still can).
Gus
I cut a length of timber 8 x 2 I think! that sits above the roller frame and supports the sag then you can break the track with no tension on the pin. I find also that it helps to drive the master pin into a length of pipe that is solidly braced behind the pin, to prevent the links twisting slightly and pinching the pin as you hammer it out.
Rex
I cut a length of timber 8 x 2 I think! that sits above the roller frame and supports the sag then you can break the track with no tension on the pin. I find also that it helps to drive the master pin into a length of pipe that is solidly braced behind the pin, to prevent the links twisting slightly and pinching the pin as you hammer it out.
Rex
I have some pictures of the process in the "Show and Tell" forum if you need to see it. I found that I had to use a 4-ton come-along to get my hydraulic tensioners to retract along the frame rail, and it was tough even with that the first time.
Since we are on the subject, after tension is removed and the track split on a 2010 how bad is it to replace the tensioners? It looks like mabe it's just held on by the four bolts on each side on the front idler frame and maybe some bolts near the tensioner spring?
Since we are on the subject, after tension is removed and the track split on a 2010 how bad is it to replace the tensioners? It looks like mabe it's just held on by the four bolts on each side on the front idler frame and maybe some bolts near the tensioner spring?
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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