Water in transmission oil

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 8:14 am

Hi,
New to the forum and to crawlers.
I just picked up a 440IC and it has water in the transmission oil (milky).
It is getting cool here and if I just drain it and refill with fresh I can see that I will be leaving a significant amount in the transmission coating the case, gears and bearings. Is there a good way to flush this residual contaminated oil out? I have read about using Kerosene. Any downsides compaired to just having some water left in there?

Thanks,
Chuck

hunter41mag · Post by **hunter41mag** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 8:39 am

Chuck,

I had the same on my 440IC. I drained it and filled with #2 diesel fuel and than idled engine for about 5 minutes so the trans gears would rotate and splash the fuel around inside the trans case. I then drained and filled with correct oil and after 5-10 more hours of use I repeated the process.

Most common source for water to get in trans is the shift tower. Make sure to remove it, disassemble and clean, lube and replace shift lever boot. Also if parking outside put a small bucket (larger coffee can works good) over the shift tower to help keep the water out.

I believe it was mentioned in a post last year that water had froze in a trans and broke the case. Not a good thing along with the rust problems causing bearing damage.

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:39 am

Don,
The diesel fuel would serve the same purpose as the kerosene and I have that at hand. I also was thinking of spinning the the gears with the stearing clutches disengaged to agitate things a little with no load.
Hopefully no bits and pieces come out with the flush!

Where is a good source for gaskets and this shifter boot? Lavoy, Deere or do you guys just use the blue goop for your gaskets?

Thanks,

Chuck

Jimmy in NC · Post by **Jimmy in NC** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:45 pm

Gaskets and boot are readily available from Deere and very reasonable last time I priced them. I had to put a boot on mine and have had the top of the transmission 3-4 times working on the shifter and loosening up shift shafts that someone beat pretty badly.

Jimmy in NC

Howard Yoder · Post by **Howard Yoder** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:09 pm

If Lavoy has them I would buy off of him I'm sure he will not be higher than Deere plus he spends a lot of time to let us enjoy this site. Just my 2 cents worth.

Howard Yoder · Post by **Howard Yoder** » Tue Sep 11, 2007 3:10 pm

Also if you can leave it set a few days water always works it way to the bottom and seperates from the oil so when you drain it you will get most of the water out.

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:02 pm

Well, I drained and flushed the transmission which was about a quart overfull with milky gear oil. It cleaned up well.
Is that stamped shift gate over the shifter boot known to be hard to remove? The 4 bolts came out OK but it doesn't want to budge.
Speeking of bolts, it looks like I am going to learn how to remove or repair broken bolts due to the number broken on this old working girl.

Chuck

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:46 pm

Just last Sunday I finally got that damn shifter gate off.

There is a ring that protrudes up from the casting of the transmission top cover to align the shifter gate, and it got rusted pretty solidly around that bit what with all the standing water.

Spray some PB all along the inside of the thing so it soaks the joint. Rattle it gently with an air hammer, or with just a hammer, as close to the flange and as squarely as possible to avoid denting the metal. Since you have the bolts out (2 of mine were broken) you can hammer at a corner to get it to rotate to break the rust bond. When it is moving, drive a 2" putty knife into the crack on opposite sides (these are great for breaking gasketed surfaces too), then use a screwdriver or chisel to to knock opposite sides up a bit at a time until it pops free.

The inside of that thing is getting a lot of antiseize/paint when it goes back on!

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:15 am

If you knock it sideways gently with a hammer back and forth, sometimes they will move enough to get a screwdriver underneath the edge to help pry.
Lavoy

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 6:49 pm

Thanks guys,
The next thing I have to buy is a BIG can of antiseize.
I guess old things are a study in patience and percistance(where is the spell check on the reply forum?).
I remember when I was so frustrated at work that my blood pressure would hit 210/110 and I would walk out the door and go out back and work on an old 720 gas and my pressure would drop to 120/85 in just minutes. I look forward to the therapy.

Chuck

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 1:53 pm

Hey,
I just got around to getting the shift guide pried off this old girl and found it packed full of oily pine needles that formed a perfect funnel down into the tranny. Anyway, In cleaning it out I found a spring attached at one end to the guide and the other end broken. This is the spring M3985T that is #21 in the parts book. The service manual says to check it for stretch but not what it attaches to. What is the purpose of the spring? Do both ends attach at the same place and is it supposed to hold the skirt of the boot down on the housing? I put the boot down past the square bump on the shifter and it seemed to be pressed pretty firmly onto the housing.

Cleaned and used antiseize on it!

Chuck

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:19 pm

The spring hooks in to the two slots on the RH side of the tower, it keeps the shifter held over so it is behind the small notch in the shift tower.
Lavoy

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:37 pm

Thanks Lavoy,

Looking at a picture of the gate I should have been able to figure that one out! :

Simple fix, at least it will come off a lot easier!

Chuck

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Water in transmission oil

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