40c abuse?

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:53 am

Im trying to learn from others mistakes and misfortunes instead of my own for once and wondering how hard can I safely work my new toy?

Ive got a 40c with blade and winch, fresh tune and ready to work. While I was servicing and changing all fluids I noticed where both finals had been cracked and welded, grounded down somewhat and repainted. When I drained the oil no chunks came with it so I assume it was a solid repair. Not sure where the weak link is yet and hope not to find out the hard way. I bought this dozer as a toy to eventually restore but have a road to build and about 2 acres of rock from softball size to about beachball size to clear first.

I dont want to tear it up or work it harder than was meant and am not sure if this is the right dozer for the job. On a scale of 1 to 10, cosmetically this is a 7, maybe 8.

I think it has a Holt blade (outside)
I would love to hear a few tales of what these 40's have done and any advice or precautions from someone with more experiance than myself. Thanks for any input- Chris

Howard Yoder · Post by **Howard Yoder** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 3:06 pm

I have no experince with a 40 but have used a 420, 430, mc, and 440. You must keep all the bolts tight that has anything to do with the frame and the finals. As long as you don't get a running start and ram things and use common sense you should not have any trouble. I have use and abused a 430 for about 16 yrs. and the only time i have had trouble was when bolts came loose on the steering clutch housing and I wanted to finish loading a load of logs and before I got done it broke. Have fun.

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:48 pm

Good advice on keeping bolts tight, a lot of them are loose on mine.

Did you grease the rollers?

I don't think you will have a problem with it getting messed up cosmetically. Just watch that you don't ram tree branches into the sheetmetal, or bang rocks into the track frames, or bottom it out on something big and hard.

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:27 pm

Thanks for the advice, yes I did go over most everything and only found a couple of loose track pads. I think I am ready to go I was just reading through the forums and was questioning how husky things are with the added stress of blade and winch hanging off the back. What a great site and bunch of guys here keeping these old girls alive. Also on top of each final someone has drilled and tapped two axle vents in each- for and aft, any thoughts? Thanks again guys.

DiggerLarry · Post by **DiggerLarry** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 3:52 pm

Should be no need for "vents". If they are tapped, put a plug in them. You want to keep all water out of those finals.

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:26 pm

Digger- About plugging those vents I was just curious if they may help to prevent condensation from forming inside the finals? This crawler has a canopy and the vents are a check style so I dont think they will let water in. Also with out a legible serial #, and besides the water pump how can you tell a 40 from a 420? This has 420 decals but no water pump, just looking for another key. I guess there is a chance of having a 420 with a 40 engine? Or maybe along its life could the 420 eng have had the water pump swapped out for 40 parts?

DiggerLarry · Post by **DiggerLarry** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:20 am

Swampy,

If there is a fitting in them, you should be OK, I think.

I've seen a 40 engine on a 420. A friend has one in South Carolina. Absolutly anything is possible.

Other things that might help identify it - The 40 and the 56 420 were very similar. If the engine was swapped, the 57/58 420 would look a lot like a 40. A 420 radiator has 2" inlet and outlet pipes, I think. The 40 radiator has smaller inlet and outlet pipes but if the engine was changed they may also have changed the radiator. There was also differences in the torque tube on the 57/58 models but main spotting feature was in the way the starter mounted using 2 studs. A 56 420 was the same as a 40 and the starter mounts with one set screw on the left side.

A 420 will have a section in the middle of the instrument panel angled up toward the operator. This is where the tach would be mounted. A 40 was completly flat. A 57/58 420 had a gate housing on top of the shifter to make finding the desired gear easier. A 5 speed optional transmission was also available beginning in 57. The rear sprocket on a 40 has triangular openings while the 420 openings are round and will have more metal in the casting. The UC could have been changed also but this might let you know what kind of hybrid you have.

DL

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Tue Sep 18, 2007 7:13 pm

OK - thanks for all the great advice. Turns out its definately a 40 thats allright. I cant wait to work it, I should get some track pads that I ordered from Lavoy by wed or thurs to make a complete set. I have been running so much at idle just so I can listen to the old girl she is loading up a bit and wants to go to work to clean out. The only bad thing about this forum is that I catch myself about 20 times a day checking for new posts to read up on!

OneWelder · Post by **OneWelder** » Thu Sep 20, 2007 7:00 pm

When I was A kid we had a 40 C which kept breaking final drive cases if pushed real hard and the grousers hooked on a rock instead of spinning.
After several repairs we found out that the rock guard in front of the sprocket is also suppose to be adjusted so the sprocket can not come to far forward , which breaks the case on top around the bearing.
The guard i am talking about is clamped to bar in ft of sprocket

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40c abuse?

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