my gas tank has sprung leak, two pin holes on the rear side of the sedement bowl. i drain the tank and removed it, looked inside the tank is clean but for three rust spots (two have the holes) about the size of the 'O' on your key board. i have cleaned these real good and brazed holes on other tractors. my question is has any one used epoxy to coat the inside of the tank? any other ideas to the repair?
thanks nick
gas tank
Epoxy and fiberglass cloth
Nick,
I've used those kits you get at the auto-parts store to patch metal gas tanks and filler pipes. The ones that come with a swatch of fiber-glass fabric and a fast-cure epoxy.
I get best results when I can patch a spot that's not wet with fuel. But I've actually got it to work on dripping/bleeding leaks as well (takes longer to set-up but it eventually does).
You can patch it from the outside if you don't care that you can see the patch. Sand/brush paint and grease from the to-be-patched spot and the epoxy will grab on good. Wear latex gloves as the epoxy gets hot and annoying while you muck with it.
I think the kits cost about $10.
Emmett
I've used those kits you get at the auto-parts store to patch metal gas tanks and filler pipes. The ones that come with a swatch of fiber-glass fabric and a fast-cure epoxy.
I get best results when I can patch a spot that's not wet with fuel. But I've actually got it to work on dripping/bleeding leaks as well (takes longer to set-up but it eventually does).
You can patch it from the outside if you don't care that you can see the patch. Sand/brush paint and grease from the to-be-patched spot and the epoxy will grab on good. Wear latex gloves as the epoxy gets hot and annoying while you muck with it.
I think the kits cost about $10.
Emmett
420C Crawler 1957 w/ blade & army 6x6 winch
Several years ago I used a product called Red Seal or Red Ckek Seal, that I bought at the local automotive store.
This is a single part, (no catalyst) very heavy paint like substance that will seal small holes.
I have only used it once, but that tank was so rusty that it should have been replaced- it still is not leaking.
I do not still have can, that is why I am unsure of the product name
Probably cost 20 to $30. per QT.
This is a single part, (no catalyst) very heavy paint like substance that will seal small holes.
I have only used it once, but that tank was so rusty that it should have been replaced- it still is not leaking.
I do not still have can, that is why I am unsure of the product name
Probably cost 20 to $30. per QT.
i have used JB Weld on a radiator a year ago and its still holding up,http://jbweld.net/products/index.php
the fuel tank liner came yesterday, i cleaned the tank with lacquer thinner, put a air hose in it to dry it out for about an hour soldered the pin holes and sedement bowl bung, pluged it, poured in the tank liner and swished it around. drain it, now waiting for it to dry for another coat.
the stuff i got was from northern factory, inc out of willmar, mn. one quart will do a 12 gal tank. it says good for real rusty tanks an holes to 1/16".cost was about $25.
i would do this to any steel gas tank do to the nature of todays alchol fuel
i will let you know what happens when i put gas in it.
nick
the stuff i got was from northern factory, inc out of willmar, mn. one quart will do a 12 gal tank. it says good for real rusty tanks an holes to 1/16".cost was about $25.
i would do this to any steel gas tank do to the nature of todays alchol fuel
i will let you know what happens when i put gas in it.
nick
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olrobk
With all cars that I restore, because of all the different sorts of deposits in a gas tank, I cut it open and physically clean it, weld it back together and coat it inside with a fuel tank coating. On occasion, with a tank that was original and the owner didn't want to chance repainting it to match an original, I have built a custom tumbler. This is a device that holds the tank securely and turns it over in all axis. I fill it with small gravel, mount it in the tumbler and leave it on for a week. The inside sparkles after that! Then treat it with coating. It is very time consuming. But when you think about it, cutting a tank open is the only way to make certain it's really clean, baffles and all, and the coating material will stick properly. In the old days, any radiator shop had a boiler but no more. This is why I was so impressed by Lavoy's all night hot parts cleaner/dish washer. I've never seen anything like it. However gas tanks need to be soaked in carburetor cleaner to attack shellac and then in acid to get the rust. Who has 55 gallon drums of carburetor cleaner lying around? Sorry this is more like my ten dollars than two cents worth but it's a problem with all old machinery. In my experience, anything that's sat around for years will require all brake and fuel systems to be completely cleaned or replaced period. There's simply too much guck and rust everywhere to trust any other fix.
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olrobk
I haven't done the tank on my IH project yet but had been doing research on different repairs when I came across several articles on the Kreem tank coating system. Most of the stuff I've seen started with sealing any pin holes with something like JB Weld and then cleaning the inside of the tank like described in the link.
http://www.ytmag.com/reviews/review1297.htm
As to ultrasonic cleaners, I used them pretty extensively for component decontamination in the nuclear business. I honestly didn't think they worked all that well until we hit upon some of the newer detergents made for them. After that, I'm convinced that with a little heat and the cleaning action of the ultrasonic sound waves in the water, there isn't much that will stand up to them.
As to safety, unless you hang your "boys" in the tank, not too much to worry about. Like most things, it'll make you dead long before it makes you sterile.
http://www.ytmag.com/reviews/review1297.htm
As to ultrasonic cleaners, I used them pretty extensively for component decontamination in the nuclear business. I honestly didn't think they worked all that well until we hit upon some of the newer detergents made for them. After that, I'm convinced that with a little heat and the cleaning action of the ultrasonic sound waves in the water, there isn't much that will stand up to them.
As to safety, unless you hang your "boys" in the tank, not too much to worry about. Like most things, it'll make you dead long before it makes you sterile.
Bill Wattson
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olrobk
I've seen small one's for carburetor cleaning but never knew they were made big enough for gas tanks. Thanks Bill and Lavoy. I'll go looking for the nearest giant ultrasonic cleaner company.
Years ago, chemical paint stripping became the way to do all metal parts. It was great. You could get rid of all paint, rust and varnish in one gentle process. Beautiful clean virgin metal was the result. The problem was pollution and the EPA soon put them out of business... for our own good I have to believe. Now there is one Redi-Strip in Virginia last time I checked. The racers and airplane folks still ship stuff down there but everyone I know uses American Dry Strip which is a media blasting process.
I say media blasting because he uses various media depending on the item being stripped. Our local guy in CT is Gary Jones in Stratford CT, a real craftsman. I personally strip everything by hand and then have it brush blasted. That way my stuff takes less of a beating.
However, with these new acrylic urethane finishes, the filling and adhesion properties are so fabulous that I'm back to clamping my tractor parts in a vise and stripping them with a wire brush grinder. After that, I wipe them with lacquer thinner and shoot them. Not perfect for show but fast, cheap and amazing results. The paints and primers, however, are very expensive.
Sorry fellas, this is another ten dollar rant.
Years ago, chemical paint stripping became the way to do all metal parts. It was great. You could get rid of all paint, rust and varnish in one gentle process. Beautiful clean virgin metal was the result. The problem was pollution and the EPA soon put them out of business... for our own good I have to believe. Now there is one Redi-Strip in Virginia last time I checked. The racers and airplane folks still ship stuff down there but everyone I know uses American Dry Strip which is a media blasting process.
I say media blasting because he uses various media depending on the item being stripped. Our local guy in CT is Gary Jones in Stratford CT, a real craftsman. I personally strip everything by hand and then have it brush blasted. That way my stuff takes less of a beating.
However, with these new acrylic urethane finishes, the filling and adhesion properties are so fabulous that I'm back to clamping my tractor parts in a vise and stripping them with a wire brush grinder. After that, I wipe them with lacquer thinner and shoot them. Not perfect for show but fast, cheap and amazing results. The paints and primers, however, are very expensive.
Sorry fellas, this is another ten dollar rant.
my tank was not to the point of needing to be boiled or cut apart just coated to keep future rust from forming. i was lucky or the tank was, i didn't have the ambition to cut it apart like i've done before. if it was to bad i just would of found another.
as far as striping paint to bare steel i still use aircraft stripper and blast out rust useing silica,black diamond,baking soda depending what it is. my brother -in- law had just purchased a dry ice blaster don't know the details on it yet.
for adhiesion to bare steel or any metal for that matter your best primer to use is an acid etch or washprimer then go to a sealer or primer surfacer if sanding then top coat. epoxy primer works well too but i don't think you get the corrosion resitance and real slow dry.
as far as striping paint to bare steel i still use aircraft stripper and blast out rust useing silica,black diamond,baking soda depending what it is. my brother -in- law had just purchased a dry ice blaster don't know the details on it yet.
for adhiesion to bare steel or any metal for that matter your best primer to use is an acid etch or washprimer then go to a sealer or primer surfacer if sanding then top coat. epoxy primer works well too but i don't think you get the corrosion resitance and real slow dry.
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
Hey! I get my carb cleaner in 55 gal drums.
It's also known as 100 octane unleaded racing gasolene. The current supplier of choice is Sunoco, as they're the ones with the NASCAR contract these days, so it's available all over. Used to be Unocal, and they still have it, too.
There are some gas stations around the country that carry this at the pump, too. Anyway, it's not hard to find, and it will clean the worst varnish out in a hurry. The best part is, if a carb is in only a little trouble, running five gallons thru the fuel system while running normally will clean things up nicely and one doesn't have to take anything apart.
Actually, these days I've taken to mixing my old tractor fuel with 50% regular (87) pump gas and 50% 100 octane. If they keep messing with the other stuff they've been messing with in the pump gas, I'll be running 100% 100 octane. Yes, it costs more (almost $5 a gal a couple weeks back) but then it always works.
I went thru a hell of a time a few months back with my 420 not wanting to start and it was due to the seasonal fuel mix they were using at the pump. Ye Olde 100 octane straighted it out. I always keep some on hand.
As far as tank cleaning goes, I use pea gravel and some 100 octane. I slosh the stuff around several times a day for a week, then drain and dump the gravel. The gas carries most of the varnish away, and the gravel loosens the rust scale. Then, I fill it again with 100 octane and let it sit another week before draining. That usually gets things clean.
Oh, and I save the drain-off gas from the second pass in a couple special gas cans. The varnish and junk winds up settling to the bottom of the cans and so one can use the same gas for cleaning multiple times, by carefully pouring good gas off the top. You have to use the stuff as much as possible before discarding, since it does cost more.
Stan
Hey! I get my carb cleaner in 55 gal drums.
It's also known as 100 octane unleaded racing gasolene. The current supplier of choice is Sunoco, as they're the ones with the NASCAR contract these days, so it's available all over. Used to be Unocal, and they still have it, too.
There are some gas stations around the country that carry this at the pump, too. Anyway, it's not hard to find, and it will clean the worst varnish out in a hurry. The best part is, if a carb is in only a little trouble, running five gallons thru the fuel system while running normally will clean things up nicely and one doesn't have to take anything apart.
Actually, these days I've taken to mixing my old tractor fuel with 50% regular (87) pump gas and 50% 100 octane. If they keep messing with the other stuff they've been messing with in the pump gas, I'll be running 100% 100 octane. Yes, it costs more (almost $5 a gal a couple weeks back) but then it always works.
I went thru a hell of a time a few months back with my 420 not wanting to start and it was due to the seasonal fuel mix they were using at the pump. Ye Olde 100 octane straighted it out. I always keep some on hand.
As far as tank cleaning goes, I use pea gravel and some 100 octane. I slosh the stuff around several times a day for a week, then drain and dump the gravel. The gas carries most of the varnish away, and the gravel loosens the rust scale. Then, I fill it again with 100 octane and let it sit another week before draining. That usually gets things clean.
Oh, and I save the drain-off gas from the second pass in a couple special gas cans. The varnish and junk winds up settling to the bottom of the cans and so one can use the same gas for cleaning multiple times, by carefully pouring good gas off the top. You have to use the stuff as much as possible before discarding, since it does cost more.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
i got my crawler put back together after other repairs and other projects in and out of the shop the gas tank has been holding up very well with the liner that i had put in it. i stripped the tank and gave it a fresh base/clear (had some laying around,do body work for living) paint job to make any leaks visable, now just got make the rest of the crawler look like that.
thanks nick
thanks nick
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